Gen 3 Tire Pressure Sensor's...

[Abe Froman]

I’m having my HRE wheels reconditioned due to an unfortunate detailing incident and I wanted to ask a few questions on installation and workings of the stock TPS sensors for a 2006?
1st. Are the factory sensors calibrated prior to installation on to the rim?
2nd. Has anyone added the stock sensors to an aftermarket wheel?
3rd. Will the computer need reset to stop the “Low Tire Pressure” warning on the dash?
4th. I’ve queried the search engine for TPS, Tire Pressure sensor, Wheel Pressure sensor… etc…

Thanks in advance for the responses… Jeff in NM…OUT

 

[Steve-Indy]

Once your new wheels with OEM sensors are mounted to your Viper, a DRB III will be needed to make them function on the car...and clear the "Low Tire Pressure" light. The process is quick and easy.

 

[Paul S Lacey]

Sort of true, but if you get the tire place to bag and label the sensors, ie left front etc and also the wheels and return them to the same place they came from you will not need a DRB, but if you do get a ping then you need to drive the car for several miles at over 30mph to possibly clear the message.

The sensors each have a different radio frequency and these are logged to the detector which is behind the dash.

The tire sensors are made to fit any wheel, but never use metal valve caps they can cause a jammed cap as corrosion can be a problem, I use some cheap China caps with the Viper logo on or use copper paste on the threads.

The valves are battery driven so looking at the year of the car it might be a good idea to give Chuck Tator a ring and fit a full set then go down the DRB route, my car is a 2004 model and I have changed one already due to low battery life is I think from 5-7 years.

 

[Flexx91]

They don't need re-setting if they are the same sensors and if they are reinstalled on your new wheels at the same wheel locations. I just had a new set of '08 OE wheels installed on my '05 and had the sensors mounted to the wheels at the same wheel location from which they were removed.

I have a new set of OE TPMS wheel sensors and nuts. If you're interested, send me a PM.

 

[Steve-Indy]

Sorry...I ASSUMED you meant NEW "stock TPS sensors for a 2006" since the date yours were made may be putting them close to battery failure time. Our 03 was built in Aug. 02...left front sensor dead by Dec. 07.
Paul pointed out battery worries. As much time, potential wheel damage, and expense as you might incur to replace them in the near future...I would suggest 4 new sensors with new wheels.

 

[Abe Froman]

Thanks for all the response… However, another question or two have come to mind from the responses!!
-What is the process of testing the integrity/function of my four (4) stock sensors?
-The DRB-III calibration equipment, is this something I can purchase at Autozone, Pep-Boys ….Etc

 

[Steve-Indy]

There are aftermarket tools that can tell you if the sensor battery is working...off or on the car...but none that I have seen that tells battery life info. One such tool is Bartec'c TECH400..neat tool, but no ability to link with Viper TPMS module...and it's about $2500.00.

DRB III is 6500.00...it is the older Dodge (Chrysler & Jeep) dealer diagnostic tool...but, the only one available to reprogram 03-10 Vipers TPMS modulus.

See this thread for more insights:

http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/634903-tps-programing.html#post2822834

 

[Abe Froman]

I contacted Chuck “The Wizard” Tatter and all I can say is…. WOW…. This man has forgotten more about Vipers then I will ever know…. I short, he is shipping me 4 TPS sensors, mounting hardware, provided the advice on installation and calibration…. and oh ya the best part…. Send me a check when you get your parts, just pay me later…. Plus a %20 Discount because Im a VCA member....

 

[Steve-Indy]

I was hoping (OK, gently nudging) that you would go in the direction chosen !!

 

[Abe Froman]

Steve... Thanks for the nudging. What a great forum...

 

[Abe Froman]

And one more thing I forgot to add to this post…
When you call to speak with Chuck Tator, don’t call him “Sir”…
and I Quote “just call me Chuck, I’m no better then you” …
Thank you for everything Mr. Tator…

 

[FRED G MCCOY]

HEADS-UP. I know this is an old thread but I think this may be a new problem with replacing pressure sensors. I have been though 8 sensors provided by Chrysler that were all bad upon receipt. I'm thinking these are old NOS parts and the (irreplaceable) batteries are bad ('03 SRT). That means that the three that worked could go bad at any time. Are there "new" aftermarket sensors that work?

 

[Steve-Indy]

Hi, Fred...sorry for your troubles.

Your post leaves many unanswered questions...starting with photos of the sensors you received, then the date codes of sensors, readings of RF output on sensors , type of tool used in programming attempt, and finally...the experience of the technician.

Call me if you like for some input and possible solutions. 317 402 9013

Best regards, Steve

 

[MoparMap]

As for the aftermarket option, yes*. The asterisk more has to do with what you're willing to accept. Dorman actually has programmable sensors that can be cloned to match the existing IDs in your car. They aren't quite the same form factor, but they seem to work okay. The programmer isn't even that expensive either, sensors are average price. I have a sent in my track wheels and just replaced the factory ones in my street wheels recently as they finally gave up the battery ghost. I had some strange fault issues with them for a while, but a relearn with a DRB III finally fixed it.

They do not program to the DRB III the same way as the stock ones. I asked Dorman directly how to "activate" them for programming and they seemed to think the standard donut magnet was supposed to work, but I had no luck with it. Finally bought one of the gun style RF blasters and that did the trick to wake them up so the car could see them for programming. I didn't have to do any car programming for my first set, but I think something was just getting tricked up on the second set because they would work 90% of the time, but sometimes when you first started the car they would throw a fault code that would eventually clear. Tried reprogramming the car just because I had a DRB III and haven't seen the issue again since.