Gen II 18" Aluminum Wheel restoration help

[MikeG]

Yesterday, I participated in a Club event that upon conclusion, left my wheels extremely dirty. They were dirtier than they have ever been. After washing and waxing my car (2002 GTS) I cleaned the wheels. I used a spray degrease product that in green letters on the front, stated "Biodegradeable". I quickly checked the reverse of the bottle and the only "Warning" label was what to do if you got it in your eyes or swallowed it. So I thought, this would surely be a safe product to use. I sprayed it on the wheels and with hose in hand, immediately washed it off, and then rewashed a second time with detergent and a third time with rinse. To my astonishment, I had all kinds of streak marks and spray patterns on the wheels. I've scrubbed and used clay bar, and nothing will remove the streak marks or spray marks. Biodegradeable? I don't know how they can make this claim. I re-read the data on the reverse, and under a heading titled "Important" (Not warning); there is a small written notice that prolonged contact with aluminum should be avoided. Apparently, prolonged contact in this case, means instantaneous.

I'm not making excuses for my ignorance.

What I need, is some real advice on what to do next. I'd like to if possible, restore the wheels and keep the original polished look. Is this possible and is it practical? Or am I going to have to either go for a powder coat alternative or get new wheels altogether now?

Any ideas?

 

[Viper Nut]

Are they clear coated? If not use some Wikked or Never Dull. If they are cleared use a fine polishing compound like Presta Chroma 1500 polish and a Mothers Power ball.

 

[red heat]

I have an 02 RT. years ago, I was at the same point you were. the wheels out of the factory are polished aluminum. they eventually fade, i.e. no luster. I sent all of my wheels years ago to get triple dipped in chrome at a place in california www.calchrome.com. the chrome finish and luster was and still is spectacular! it cost me about 1500 to do it. they even have an exchange program where they will send a freshly dipped set out to you rather quick. my understanding is that they already have finished ones there. unfortunately, polished aluminum fades and does not hold up well for long.

 

[MikeG]

Are they clear coated? If not use some Wikked or Never Dull. If they are cleared use a fine polishing compound like Presta Chroma 1500 polish and a Mothers Power ball.

The front wheels for some reason seem to have been less affected adversely than the rear wheels. The rear wheels have been seriously adversely affected. They look absolutely horrible. I'm actually embarrassed to go anywhere in the car at the moment, they look so awful. I've got two VCA events coming up - one which is a "Wounded Warrior" event and personally very close to my heart for personal reasons, and I'm at a loss as to what to do.

Maybe getting them chromed plated is a solution. I had not thought about that. It might be something I can get done locally. I'd much rather go that route than have them powder coated. I might as well try the advice given by Viper Nut also. But I'm fairly certain the finish on the rear wheels are permanently damaged, and will require expenditure of serious monies to repair. Unbelievable that this happened so easily. This is really demoralizing to say the least.

 

[Viper Nut]

Mike don't fret. As long as they are raw metal, you can use the Wikked metal polish which I get at a local truck stop or you can go to your local Advance Auto Parts or whoever you have in your area and get some Never Dull or something similar. It will take out the stains and look better than before. If you want you can polish them several times and they will look like chrome. I like mine best after the shine dulls back a little to give more of natural metal look vs the chrome look. I have had the same thing happen before and never had any problems getting them looking good again. Try it you will be pleasantly surprised......

 

[MikeG]

Mike don't fret. As long as they are raw metal, you can use the Wikked metal polish which I get at a local truck stop or you can go to your local Advance Auto Parts or whoever you have in your area and get some Never Dull or something similar. It will take out the stains and look better than before. If you want you can polish them several times and they will look like chrome. I like mine best after the shine dulls back a little to give more of natural metal look vs the chrome look. I have had the same thing happen before and never had any problems getting them looking good again. Try it you will be pleasantly surprised......

Thanks Viper Nut.

I'm going to the local Auto Parts store ASAP and try and get some of this stuff. I want to be "Dress-Right-Dress" for the soldier that is going to be commuting from Point A to Point B, and back again in my car. Nothing is too good for these men and women that served our Nation and almost made the supreme sacrifice.

Thanks.

 

[AFL in NJ]

I swore there was another thread on this, but if I remember correctly the stock rims are polished aluminum and coated with some sort of a clear coat. I believe someone who really knew their paint suggested which clear coat was best. I have a spare set of GTS rims for my 02 which I plan to refinish in the next year or so....I'll see if I can find that other thread.

Regards,
Aaron

 

[LifeIsGood]

From my 2001 Service Manual...

TIRES/WHEELS - Section 22 - 12

CLEANING - ALUMINUM WHEEL CARE

Chrome plated and painted aluminum wheels should be cleaned regularly using mild soap and water to maintain their luster and to prevent corrosion.

Care must be taken in the selection of tire and wheel cleaning chemicals and equipment to prevent damage to the wheels. Any of the 'DO NOT USE' items listed below WILL damage chrome plated and painted aluminum wheels.

DO NOT USE:

• any abrasive metal cleaner
• any abrasive cleaning pad or brush
• any cleaner that contains an acid (this will immediately react with and discolor the chromium surface)
• chrome polish (unless it is buffed off immediately after application)
• oven cleaner
• a car wash that uses carbide-tipped wheel cleaning brushes

 

[Camfab]

The stock wheels are clear coated, using neverdull or any abrasive is a bad idea. If you have ruined the clearcoat, you have a few options, one is to simply dismount the tires off the rims and then have the wheels chemically stripped. You can then have them re-cleared, chromed or simply polish them out with mothers billet. The cheapest alternative is to just hand polish them with Mothers, they will look better than new, but will require constant maintenance. Not to rub salt in your wounds, but biodegradable doesn't mean it's safe.

 

[MikeG]

I ordered the Wicked Metal Polish that was recommended. From what I was able to glean from the advertisement, it is non-abrasive and very similar in composition and performance to Mothers. I hope this stuff works, because looking at my wheels, the stain patterns look like they are in the metal alloy, and not just on the surface. I'm not sure polishing and buffing is going to have any effect. But I'm going to try.
If not, I'm probably going to have to remove the wheels, and have them re-plated and re-coated.

Crazy that a simple well-meaning wheel wash at the car wash ended up in a nightmare like this.

 

[Matt M PA]

Factory wheels are clear coated. I'd suggest using a mild polish for painted surfaces as you've likely damaged the clear coat. If its past the clear...then you may need to have it polished and cleared.

When manufactured, the wheels were polished, cleaned of polishing compounds, then cleared. The wheels on my 2000 turned orange in places when new because some of the polishing compound wasnt cleaned off. Chrysler replaced the wheels under warranty.

 

[MTGTS]

I ordered the Wicked Metal Polish that was recommended. From what I was able to glean from the advertisement, it is non-abrasive and very similar in composition and performance to Mothers. I hope this stuff works, because looking at my wheels, the stain patterns look like they are in the metal alloy, and not just on the surface. I'm not sure polishing and buffing is going to have any effect. But I'm going to try.
If not, I'm probably going to have to remove the wheels, and have them re-plated and re-coated.

Crazy that a simple well-meaning wheel wash at the car wash ended up in a nightmare like this.

Mother's BILLET polish is the best stuff I've used. You can usually get it at Autozone, pepboys, etc...

There is a difference between the Mothers aluminum polish and the billet polish FYI.

 

[MikeG]

It occurred to me it might help (or not) if I enclosed a couple of pictures. Then perhaps the damage can be better understood and assessed. It ain't pretty.

 

[jwolf]

Re-polishing will take care of it here is my You-tube of doing mine.
http://youtu.be/-jM-5qNb6sw

 

[uvbnbit]

My guess is the cleaner was not clear-coat safe and/or your clear coat was already gone. My guess is clear is already gone. Aluminum polish then cleaner, then good sealant/wheel wax would be best/cheapest fix. It'll take some time to do a really good job, but your best bet at this point in my opinion. Stay on top of them and you can avoid having to re-clear.
And as was mentioned before, they'll shine better than new.

Chip/Rim Repair and Restoration

 

[Viper Nut]

Have you figured out if it still has the clear coat ?

 

[uvbnbit]

It occurred to me it might help (or not) if I enclosed a couple of pictures. Then perhaps the damage can be better understood and assessed. It ain't pretty.

were the wheels hot when cleaner was sprayed on?

 

[MikeG]

Have you figured out if it still has the clear coat ?

I'm thinking the front two wheels still have, or had the clear coat on them. They are not as badly affected. I don't think the rear wheels still had clear coat protection. As can be seen from the pictures, they were heavily damaged. I've ordered the non-abrasive metal polish. However, they called me today and their owner wants to further discuss the matter before fulfilling the order. I think he wants to insure I ordered the correct product for the issue. I've got a return call in to him, but he currently out. Will update when I learn more about what their concern(s) is/are.

 

[MikeG]

were the wheels hot when cleaner was sprayed on?

I don't think so. The distance from my residence to the car wash is about a half mile. Additionally, I had to wait a spell for a wash stall to become available. So I would say, no.
Wheels were not sprayed until I was actually in the stall. I had the sprayer in one hand and water hose in the other. Sprayed and washed. Incidentally, the stuff on the wheels, whatever it was, wouldn't come off under normal cleaning as usual, which is why I resorted to a degrease spray. I did read the bottle but the part about not leaving the substance on aluminum for prolonged periods was not addressed under the warning label. It was covered under a small reference under the heading "Important". Still, it apparently reacted spontaneously upon contact. Lesson learned, albeit it might prove an expensive lesson.

 

[Grisoman]

Very unfortunate, sorry to read this story and see what happened. I never realized Gen2 wheels were cleared--is it common to clear chrome? Anyway, another reminder to use simple solutions and go from there with more aggressive cleaners. I bet your dirty wheels would have cleaned up fine with just soap and water (mine do).

 

[MikeG]

Re-polishing will take care of it here is my You-tube of doing mine.
http://youtu.be/-jM-5qNb6sw

Jay,

Thanks. After reviewing your video and your work, there is indeed hope that buffing and polishing the wheels with a nonabrasive metal polish will renew the finish.

Much appreciated.

 

[Camfab]

1) Stock wheels are all cleared.2) Clear coat doesn't just fall off or wear out. It's thick and durable.3) The stock wheels are not chrome (more confusion).4) Never use any chemical wheel cleaner, let alone spray and drive, total newbie disaster.5) Read the owners manual and abide by it.6) I can't think of any part on a Gen II that could use metal polish other than the raised lettering on the valve covers, without damage.

 

[MikeG]

Update: Playing it safe, and upon review of all the responses, I went out and obtained a can of Mothers Billet. I applied it to a section of the left rear wheel, and after some rigorous hand rubbing and buffing, it appeared to remove all of the streaking and staining, and left a very highly polished finish. I'm thinking this would infer the "Clear Coat" is still present.
I went and obtained a conical polishing brush and am now going to seriously attack these wheels. I think I will be good to go for this Saturday's Wounded Warriors event.
I'm pumped.

Thanks everyone.

 

[AZTVR]

I went out and obtained a can of Mothers Billet. I applied it to a section of the left rear wheel, and after some rigorous hand rubbing and buffing, it appeared to remove all of the streaking and staining, and left a very highly polished finish. I'm thinking this would infer the "Clear Coat" is still present

To me, the conclusion would be that, somehow, the clear coat is obviously NOT present. That polish is formulated to work on bare aluminum. If you do actually have clear coat on there, then possibly there is a filler in the polish that is acting to polish the clear coat. If it works, then I guess you are OK one way or the other.

Is the cloth turning black as you polish? That means that you are polishing the bare aluminum, which is good, and what you are using is the right thing. If it stays clean looking, then you are polishing clear coat.

 

[MikeG]

To me, the conclusion would be that, somehow, the clear coat is obviously NOT present. That polish is formulated to work on bare aluminum. If you do actually have clear coat on there, then possibly there is a filler in the polish that is acting to polish the clear coat. If it works, then I guess you are OK one way or the other.

Is the cloth turning black as you polish? That means that you are polishing the bare aluminum, which is good, and what you are using is the right thing. If it stays clean looking, then you are polishing clear coat.

On the front wheels, the cloth is pretty much staying colorless, and doesn't seem to be having much affect. On the back wheels, it is definitely turning black, and is both removing the tarnish and stains, and bringing the finish to a very high gloss shine - almost like chrome.
Good point. Guess there is no clear coat on the back wheels. Not entirely sure about the front wheels.

So what is the difference between Mothers Billet Polish and Mothers Metal Polish? Both read they are okay for polishing aluminum. I have both types, but have only so far used the Billet Polish.
Since it appears to be doing the job (on the rear wheels at least), guess it can't hurt to continue to use it.

 

[klamathpro]

Don't feel bad. I made the same mistake on the wheels of my dad's vette. You do have a clearcoat, or else they wouldn't stay polished for more than a couple years. You can strip the clear coat off and then re-polish like in that video. They will look better than new, but you'll have to do a quick re-polish once a year if you don't clearcoat them. Experiment with the two Mother's polishes you have. I used Mother's Mag polish. Use an electric high-speed grinder with a wool polishing wheel for the face. And don't worry, it will take time but they will turn out looking chrome plated when done.

 

[Grisoman]

1) Stock wheels are all cleared.3) The stock wheels are not chrome (more confusion).

Thanks I now know I have highly-polished aluminum wheels.

 

[Camfab]

Mother's Billet is a finer abrasive polish compared to the regular Mother's Metal Polish. It will produce a glossier finish on a already polished wheel. I'm guessing you may not be the original owner of your car. If the cloth is turning black on the rear wheels, someone must have stripped the finish on them as AZTVR mentioned. This is what creates confusion for multiple owner cars, as the new owner has no idea what the previous owner may have done (good or bad, unfortunately usually bad).