Well, I looked up repairing these fuel tanks as, surprise, guess what mine did? I bought a 98' tank, which has a different OVRS setup than the 2000-2002's so the rollover valve and charcoal canister shutoff valve will need to be transferred to the new tank; it can be done but what a pain as two holes will need to be made in the new tank, then I was thinking to get an older pump assembly to go with the new tank so I wouldn't have to do any modifying, this is getting ridiculous. Took a closer look at the 98' tank: the construction on the 98 tank uses no glue or adhesives. It has what appears to be two halves of the tank 'plastic welded' together. The tank also has PEHD on it indicating the type of plastic it is made from.
BAD BAD NEWS: Nothing bonds to this type of plastic as it is resistant to chemicals, not permanently anyway so forget all that stuff at AutoZone. Even if I find a replacement, a replacement could have the same problem as my existing tank at the fill inlet. Talked to Doug Levin whom says that many 2002's have this problem and how to replace it. At the fill port there is the checkvalve for the refueling hose, which looks like it is inserted with maybe adhesive or a seal and you can definitely see an seam where it is inserted.
Did more research and it turns out that the fuel system is supposed to be closed and airtight. When you refill the tank and open the gascap, you should hear the pressure in the tank escaping, which of course mine doesn't indicating a leak. It seems BMW has problems with the plastic on their ORVS systems as well where it deteriorates and throws a code. Heard stories of people getting the MIL light on newer cars because they did not screw the gas cap on all the way. There is a pump that pressurizes the fuel system and the ECM can tell if there is a leak if there is a pressure drop, which tells the driver that there is a leak somewhere.
NOW FOR THE GOOD NEWS: You can repair plastics by welding back together but you can only use HDPE rods on the HDPE tank. I have not confirmed what the 2000-2002's tanks are made from as I need to look at the federal label on the tank and it will need to be removed to do this. So I need to get some HDPE rods and I will report back how it works in a few weeks to a month. Instead of messing around getting the fuel tank de-fueled, I am just going to take it auto events until it gets about 1/8 tank level and then dive into it, I do not see the advantage to removing the tank to do the repair compared to doing it in right rear wheelwell. The fuel smell went away after I got just below 3/4 tankful, so for a quick solution just fill it up with 10 gallons, no more, and it shouldn't leak, from the fill port anymore, is this safe? Thats a question you need to answer. BTW, it looks pretty simple to do this repair and it can be done for the cost of tools of $70.00...