That is a lot more hp under the curve than the rest of us are seeing, his PCM is not holding him back. That car with a 1.6 sixty is a 10.5 run.
Gen V Drag Strip Results & C7 Corvette
- Thread starter Nine Ball
- Start date
KB Viper
Viper Owner
mnc2886
Enthusiast
I guess because he knows something we don't.....
Nine Ball
Enthusiast
His car was 6 mph faster at the 1/8 and the 1/4 mile than my car. That is a HUGE power difference. Reduced power mode is boring, unless you are a Corvette owner. Then it would feel fast. 
Optimism: SRT Viper on reduced power is still quicker/faster than a C7 with a custom tune.
Optimism: SRT Viper on reduced power is still quicker/faster than a C7 with a custom tune.
That car is a minimum of a 10.5 ET with a 1.6 sec 60' ft time. He was putting down a lot more hp in the 1/8 than your car. With a 1.75 sixty he would have had a 10.8 ET.
His car was 6 mph faster at the 1/8 and the 1/4 mile than my car. That is a HUGE power difference. Reduced power mode is boring, unless you are a Corvette owner. Then it would feel fast.
Optimism: SRT Viper on reduced power is still quicker/faster than a C7 with a custom tune.
mnc2886
Enthusiast
I still believe if the issues are fixed, we have a stock 10 second car. Pretty cool if you ask me.....
VRYALT3R3D
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Jamie Furman went 10.9x in a bone stock gen IV. It is only a matter of time before the Gen V does the same.
You are correct, the important question is when will we see the fix. That is a great time for a terrible 60.
seems to me ralph knows the fix
BlueLIGHTNING
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I haven't been here long enough but with all do respect to everyone I find threads like this kinda of funny. Except for the few who track/race vipers who really cares other than for bragging rights who is faster. From the vipers I've see for sale, many barely have seen the road nevermind actually driving the thing to its potential. Most see a Sunday drive to Starbucks and at best or like me, when I see an empty stretch of road I open her up a bit but loosing my license isn't worth the risk. So for most 640hp or 250hp what difference does it make for 99% of the driving pleasure in our vipers.
The difference is anyone that races and aggressivly drives there car wants the power they paid hard earned money for!
Steve M
Enthusiast
If I'm paying for a Viper, I'm paying for each and every HP that it should have, and I want to be able to use it as I see fit, when I see fit to do it. In this case, the computer seems to be overstepping its bounds for little to no reason, and needs to be addressed with a software patch or something along those lines.
And for me, if my Viper only had 250HP, it wouldn't be in my garage...99% of my driving pleasure comes from having access to more power than most anyone should ever need.
TrackAire
Enthusiast
The same reason really old rich guys have young trophy wives......you think they ever get rode hard???.......
mjorgensen Woodhouse
Enthusiast
Hi Guys,
For trips to the strip I would suggest unplugging the front two wheel speed sensors so they are not confusing to the stability controls, do the same on the dyno. You should still have ABS because the rear wheels will provide information for it just as it would if the sensors up front failed. You will NOT have stability control any longer though and YES the stability controls are active in the back ground even when in the "off" position I bet, I would bet this on any car that claims to deacitvate it fully.
Anyway, someone head out and try this, if it works for you you can figure out for yourself how to rig a switch to make it easier to do at the strip, maybe.
For trips to the strip I would suggest unplugging the front two wheel speed sensors so they are not confusing to the stability controls, do the same on the dyno. You should still have ABS because the rear wheels will provide information for it just as it would if the sensors up front failed. You will NOT have stability control any longer though and YES the stability controls are active in the back ground even when in the "off" position I bet, I would bet this on any car that claims to deacitvate it fully.
Anyway, someone head out and try this, if it works for you you can figure out for yourself how to rig a switch to make it easier to do at the strip, maybe.
BlueLIGHTNING
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The same reason really old rich guys have young trophy wives......you think they ever get rode hard???.......
Depends on the old guy and how much ****** he's takin!!
Nine Ball
Enthusiast
Just from the TX Viper owners that I've met and know, I'd say the docile and slow driving gene didn't make it this far south. We like hauling ass, down here. The car crowd I normally run in, 1000 at the wheels is mid-level in our pack. 800 at the wheels is entry level. These are street cars.
11.6 is a great time but 119mph...that's what my gen III trapped. Its achieving that time right off the line and in the first 60 feet...from a roll it will get destroyed by the gen V.
yes, but I believe that was at MIR...a very good track for drag racing. I have found a consistant .3-.4 sec difference in running my car at Atco and Englishtown. 2 different tracks in the same state...so, Yes, the track matters a lot!
sorry, above quote was a reply to this....
First off. 11.4 your first ever pass is impressive. a gen2 is lucky to do a 12.2. A gen 3 is lucky to do 11.0. A gen 4 11.7. Even with a lowish mph of 124...a 11.4 your first ever pass is good to go.
But damn if I dont want an auto c7 now...lol
But damn if I dont want an auto c7 now...lol
Also. the gen4s seemed to average 124-127 mph with the fastest in in 127-129 range at 3450 pounds and 530 rwhp.
Why 3350 pound 540 rwhp gen 5s arent averaging 126-129 mph is quite the mystery. hopw we figure this out. thanks nineball for the info
Why 3350 pound 540 rwhp gen 5s arent averaging 126-129 mph is quite the mystery. hopw we figure this out. thanks nineball for the info
Nine Ball
Enthusiast
I contacted a couple SRT engineers over the weekend, and had a conference call with them today. They were concerned with what I'd reported, and want to help figure things out. They asked all sorts of technical questions about the setup of the car, weather conditions, any mods, etc.. I gave them all the input I had. We discussed the IAT (Intake Air Temp) and also engine coolant temps. I reported that my SRT Application Gauge pack showed the IAT around 111-112F while idling, and my coolant temps were 180-190F for the most part. They were leaning towards this being the most possible cause for the aggressive reduction in power. Their tune pulls out ignition timing as IAT's cross over 100F, and the coolant temps breach 190F. Neither of these would matter on a road course, as the car is moving and the radiator works more efficiently. But, when idling 10-15 ft at a time in a drag strip staging lane (think of very heavy traffic) and then idling after doing a burnout while you stage the lights - both of those temps are easily excessive to their respective sensors.
This results in the computer thinking the ambient conditions aren't good, which can pull timing and reduce power. If there was any vibrations that may have been incorrectly setting off the knock-retard sensors, then it could also result in reduced power. The problem is that once these low-timing maps are triggered, they take some engine driving cycles to fully regain the power back. That is likely why my car felt like it was back to normal, after 20 min into my drive home on the freeway. Until that drive cycle, the car might assume you have a bad tank of fuel, or it is very hot outside.
Seems like the coolant temp issue could be resolved by a simple thermostat swap.
The IAT sensor is on the intake piping, it picks up a lot of heat from the radiator when sitting still. I may try and insulate that area, so that idle/radiator temps do not skew my temp sensor. It was in the 62-65F range outside that night, which is what the IAT should have been reading. It probably did drop down on the readings as soon as I took off, but the timing map was already set for the higher temp it was reading.
I asked about their removal of the PCM pigtails on the dyno video. They said that it had nothing to do with the dyno pulls, they only pulled them to plug their computer into those PCM ports to monitor data that was logged after the pull. So, that mystery is solved.
I have the track rented out for Nov 10th, will try doing a few things differently this time. Hopefully I can figure it out.
Good discussion, so far! They asked for me to keep them updated.
This results in the computer thinking the ambient conditions aren't good, which can pull timing and reduce power. If there was any vibrations that may have been incorrectly setting off the knock-retard sensors, then it could also result in reduced power. The problem is that once these low-timing maps are triggered, they take some engine driving cycles to fully regain the power back. That is likely why my car felt like it was back to normal, after 20 min into my drive home on the freeway. Until that drive cycle, the car might assume you have a bad tank of fuel, or it is very hot outside.
Seems like the coolant temp issue could be resolved by a simple thermostat swap.
The IAT sensor is on the intake piping, it picks up a lot of heat from the radiator when sitting still. I may try and insulate that area, so that idle/radiator temps do not skew my temp sensor. It was in the 62-65F range outside that night, which is what the IAT should have been reading. It probably did drop down on the readings as soon as I took off, but the timing map was already set for the higher temp it was reading.
I asked about their removal of the PCM pigtails on the dyno video. They said that it had nothing to do with the dyno pulls, they only pulled them to plug their computer into those PCM ports to monitor data that was logged after the pull. So, that mystery is solved.
I have the track rented out for Nov 10th, will try doing a few things differently this time. Hopefully I can figure it out.
Good discussion, so far! They asked for me to keep them updated.
Solid Red 98
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Very good information! Thanks! Nice to see what SRT thinks. I'm looking forward to seeing what you find at your next test.
Steve M
Enthusiast
Interesting...I would guess this same thing happens on Gen 4 cars from what I've felt driving around town on a hot day. The car feels like a dog after it has been sitting in traffic on a 90* day, but seems to get better once you are moving.
SnakeBitten
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Very cool that SRT is in the game for this fix. I'm sure this will be figured out soon. Soon we should have the real performance of the G5 at the drags.
But, when idling 10-15 ft at a time in a drag strip staging lane (think of very heavy traffic) and then idling after doing a burnout while you stage the lights - both of those temps are easily excessive to their respective sensors.
before runs i always have let my car cool down. also after a run when its sitting i have always had fans blowing
on the font of the car with the hood open. it did make a difference. before doing a run i always go to the staging
lanes early and push it until they give me the go to make a run. i waste no time from that point on. just a fyi
as to keeping it cool. hope it helps.
before runs i always have let my car cool down. also after a run when its sitting i have always had fans blowing
on the font of the car with the hood open. it did make a difference. before doing a run i always go to the staging
lanes early and push it until they give me the go to make a run. i waste no time from that point on. just a fyi
as to keeping it cool. hope it helps.
nine ball probably a stupid question but are you speed shifting when you make your runs? not sure about you but
i know from the moment i leave from the light if the car hooked up and had the right rpms if it was going to be a
good run. when that happens i just worry im going to miss a shift but cant get the smile off my face knowing it was
going to be good. one other thing i always ask to run alone and from the the time i start the engine it takes me less
then a minute to start my pass, at times the engine hasnt even reached 190 temp.
i know from the moment i leave from the light if the car hooked up and had the right rpms if it was going to be a
good run. when that happens i just worry im going to miss a shift but cant get the smile off my face knowing it was
going to be good. one other thing i always ask to run alone and from the the time i start the engine it takes me less
then a minute to start my pass, at times the engine hasnt even reached 190 temp.
Nine Ball
Enthusiast
WANTED, I would normally push a car in the staging lanes, if I were trying to set some record pass. I wasn't. I just wanted to see what the car ran, just like I drove it normally. The track was over an hour away from my house. I do try and minimize idle or engine running time, I just turn the car on to move it and then I kill it again. Coolant temps would go down to 168-170F by the time I made it back to the water box, but the burnouts would bring temps up pretty quickly. They forced us to drive straight through the water this night, so a burnout was required to dry the tires off. Normally we can drive around the water, and I just do a dry peel out to clean the tires off. I shift pretty quickly, but was not power-shifting (no lift shift). If I were going for a record, I'd power-shift it. That has been good for 0.03 to 0.05 seconds in the past, compared to my normal quick shifting. I'm very consistent once I've figured a car out, as I used to bracket race competitively - with a manual trans. Mostly 10-second cars.
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