Golden Collection of Viper Tricks, Traps and Lessons…

[white out]

Yes, Chuck explained it to me that doing this will dump EVERYTHING in the car's PCM and will allow the Viper to relearn from zero. Viper PCM's are adaptive and always "learning" as we are driving. After a while, the PCM gets full of "cookies" and thats when the drivability issues arise. Doing the positive cable-to-frame grounding is just like deleting all the cookies in your web browser's memory. After doing this, be sure to insert the key, turn to "on" (do not crank) and press the gas pedal to the floor firmly twice. Then turn the key off. This will reteach the TPS the position of the pedal at WOT. You can now start the car as normal.

Can you do this from the remote terminal (under hood)?

Nick

 

[Steve-Indy]

NO !!! Unless I'm missing something, your plan would create something akin to an arc welder.

You must kill the current to the PCM...either by exposing the battery itself and removing the positive cable from the battery, then grounding that cable for a couple of seconds...OR...unplug the PCM connections at the PCM...noting that while many have done it this last way, the Manual says to disconnect the battery cable at the battery BEFORE you unplug the PCM.

 

[97snk]

BATTERIES--Vipers have lots of funny drivability issues when the battery is low/bad. If you're battery hasn't been replaced in 3+ years, its a very likely candidate. DO NOT replace with an Optima Redtop. Even Vipers driven 10k/year kill Optimas in about 6 months

WHAT? I just got a red top for my GTS, thanks VCA for the great discount on optima red top that won't even last me 6 months...

 

[white out]

NO !!! Unless I'm missing something, your plan would create something akin to an arc welder.

You must kill the current to the PCM...either by exposing the battery itself and removing the positive cable from the battery, then grounding that cable for a couple of seconds...OR...unplug the PCM connections at the PCM...noting that while many have done it this last way, the Manual says to disconnect the battery cable at the battery BEFORE you unplug the PCM.

Okay, I was thinking that it would be an interesting experience. Thanks for clarifying.

Nick

 

[eucharistos]

bump for noobs

 

[Sneaky Pete]

Lots of good tips in here!

 

[Jack B]

I would just disconnect the remote battery terminal under the hood and reconnect it, then set the WOT. It's easy enough to do.

There is a problem with removing the cable under the hood. It is very easy to spin the stud when you remove the cable, when that happens the power module is scrap and not repairable - $$$

 

[eucharistos]

good to know,

thanks jack b

 

[vigilantty]

TATOR – Is not a Viper God, he is a man like you and me, he is an extremely talented and caring Viper expert, nothing more....



WRONG!!!!!!!!!!! Chuck is the original viper GOD!
[media]http://www.tatorsdodge.com/images/86tatorsbbq5-med.jpg[/media]

 

[1buddyc]

Bumping again for Noobs (Like me)..

 

[Vic]

I always use old oil to lubricate the new filter seal. Never had any problems, no leaks, no frozen filters, no problems whatsoever in over 1 million miles cumulative, between various cars I've owned over the years. A few have approached 200,000 miles each. I call b.s. on that one.

 

[kyleblix]

thanks for the bump, great info here! Where should I take the car to address the door sagging issue? Body shop? Or should I take it into Dodge?

 

[Ron]

I'd learn how to do it yourself as you'll be doing it a lot. Not hard, but easier with two people and patience. Just be careful while test closing. Alternatively, a high end body shop would be my choice versus a dealer.

 

[diko]

why hasn't this thread become a "sticky"?

 

[mattdillon]

why hasn't this thread become a "sticky"?

+1, At the VERY LEAST! Definitely A Must Read

 

[emaw]

I am a new owner and there is a ton of great information in this thread!

Thanks!