GTS Track prep list

[Early93Viper]

I guess I **** at searching because I couldn’t find this after numerous searches.

As some of you know I couldn't stop tracking my GEN I. I really miss it and it's just a matter of time (and money) before I track my GEN II. So I wanted to get together a list of mods I would need to safely track my car. It already has steel braded brake lines and cooling ducts. And I am going to put in a 6 point before I track.

Here is what I got so far Prices are estimated and include shipping.

GTS track ready

$1300 Viper Parts of America PS2 Tires (my tires are old)
$250 EBC Yellow Brake pads (Put on stock rotors I got from a buddy)
$200 Fluids
Put extra clamps on radiator connections $20
K&N air filters $150 (Mine have seen better days)
Motor mounts $275 Woodhouse
Tom’s Brake upgrade $750


Maybe
Oil pan for Oiling issues? Where would I find this? Is this a must have? Is overfilling an option?

Anything Else I am missing? Are my prices off? I really am just looking for a goal to save up so I can get my new car on the track.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Dump the EBCs for some real track pads. I've used all four colors and none of them are any good. I'm sure they've changed to compound since I last used them but I haven't seen anything to indicate they're any better.

$200 for fluids seems a little low. I suspect that doesn't include tranny or diff?

 

[DrumrBoy]

Don't forget an alignment for the track, lots more negative camber.

 

[costanZo]

Don't forget an alignment for the track, lots more negative camber.

From what I've been told, Corner Balance Alignment is the way to go..

 

[MTGTS]

Good alignment @ minimum, corner balance if avaialble
Brake fluid flush (Motul, Castrol)
fresh oil, coolant, tranny and diff fluid.
motor and tranny mouts are a good idea
Power Steering pulley and bracket (stock ones WILL break)
track pads
You will eventually wanna get an extra set of wheels with something like 888's or something on them. Burning through PS2's will get expensive
Since you have a 97 you also have the smaller 8qt oil pan, you can upgrade to the 10qt. which is 00-02 and get a baffling system. (I know partsrack has these in stock I believe around $500-$600 for both, well worth the peace of mind of extra oil)
Check all your a-arm bushings and endlinks
Upgrade the swaybar mounts (about $50 for front and rear)

 

[dave6666]

Starting point...

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​

 

[99 R/T 10]

You have thed 8.5 quart oil pan in the 19987. Look at upgrading to the 2000-2002 10 quart oil pan. From what I understand, big sweeping turns can cause oil starvation and failure on the #3 bearing.

 

[Early93Viper]

Dump the EBCs for some real track pads. I've used all four colors and none of them are any good. I'm sure they've changed to compound since I last used them but I haven't seen anything to indicate they're any better.

$200 for fluids seems a little low. I suspect that doesn't include tranny or diff?

Ya that guesstimate seems a little low now that I think about it.

I really loved EBC Yellows because I never had to take them off between street and Track driving. (I am pretty Lazy) And I really liked the new blend for the new pads.

Stupid question: Will the brakemans really give me that much more stoping Power?

Anyone who has tracked a GEN I-GEN II pre-abs Viper knows that braking is the Vipers achilles heel. I definitely want to focus on better Braking.

 

[Bexar80]

I am getting ready for a track day this weekend and I have a few questions if the op does not mind.

Should all the cooling hose camps be changed to screw type? Has anyone had just the heater core inlet hose blow off (a local member pointed it out to me)?

Does the power steering bracket usually crack from track use? My street car has the original, along with the original pulley which I have kept an eye on. Should I have a contingency ready, even just for one track day?


What about the following for serious track use?

Should the crank pulley at least be checked, if not replaced and pined?

What about the toe bracket re-enforcements? Does the toe really change that much under braking?

What about the billet transmission cross-member? I noticed that the original mount on mine has a cracked weld.

 

[dave6666]

I am getting ready for a track day this weekend and I have a few questions if the op does not mind.

Should all the cooling hose camps be changed to screw type? Has anyone had just the heater core inlet hose blow off (a local member pointed it out to me)?

The factory spring type hose clamps are fine IMO. They actually maintain a constant clamping force whereas the screw type get looser or tighter with change. The one on the heater core is a fixed crimp type clamp hence different animal.

Does the power steering bracket usually crack from track use? My street car has the original, along with the original pulley which I have kept an eye on. Should I have a contingency ready, even just for one track day?

What exactly are you keeping an eye out for? A crack with this little flag waving with a countdown list on it of remaining life?

LOL just kidding but it seems highly unlikely it will warn you. Do it. Change it while it is still good.

What about the following for serious track use?

Should the crank pulley at least be checked, if not replaced and pined?

What about the toe bracket re-enforcements? Does the toe really change that much under braking?

What about the billet transmission cross-member? I noticed that the original mount on mine has a cracked weld.

That weld is just the spacer block to the crossmember. Non load bearing. it has been pointed out before by one of our resident designers that the factory piece is adequate for most uses.

 

[99 R/T 10]

I am getting ready for a track day this weekend and I have a few questions if the op does not mind.

Should all the cooling hose camps be changed to screw type? Has anyone had just the heater core inlet hose blow off (a local member pointed it out to me)?

I like the screw type clamps, cheap insurance.

Does the power steering bracket usually crack from track use? My street car has the original, along with the original pulley which I have kept an eye on. Should I have a contingency ready, even just for one track day?

Yep, have a back up pulley and bracket just in case. you will need a puller for the piece of pulley left on the shaft. They can usually be changed on the car.

Better would be to upgrade to a billet bracket and pulley now, also cheap insurance and saves a LOT of headaches later. Trust me...............

What about the following for serious track use?

Should the crank pulley at least be checked, if not replaced and pined?

Could not hurt

What about the toe bracket re-enforcements? Does the toe really change that much under braking?

What about the billet transmission cross-member? I noticed that the original mount on mine has a cracked weld.

If it's broke now, get the billet one

 

[Leslie]

Here's what I've done in the last 2 yrs since I track my '01 more than I drive it on the street. Believe me, I didn't do it all at once ....but INITIALLY I immediately after driving the car stock I wanted better brakes (I cooked the stock pads in 20 minutes) and COOLING!

I asked a lotta questions and learned what I could do on my own and what I should leave to the professionals.

Cooling
K&N/smooth tubes
new water pump/pwr steering pulley/bracket
cooling duct kit to brakes/rotors
Motul 660 brake fluid, Mobil 15/50, synthetic tranny fluid, diff/pwr steering fluid change, 70% distilled water, 30% coolant, and 2 bottles of water wetter, remove and clean radiator at least 1xyr, 170 t stat

Brakes
Stoptech 6 piston fronts/4 piston rears
ss lines
Stoptech 2 piece rotors
Hawk DTC race pads/front and rear

Tires
Toyo R888's, 285 front, 335 rear

Wheels
Forgeline VR1's track wheels

Power (short list haha)
High flow cats/Corsa exhaust

Misc:
rebuilt konis/eibach springs
sway bars
Ab's wires/Champion plugs
Toe hooks
Teamtech restraints
firesuit/hans
aggressive street alignment, corner weight
'bolt tightening' for track cars, (tighten bolts after a yr of tracking vibration)
constant checking of suspension components!

 

[Dom426h]

You have thed 8.5 quart oil pan in the 19987. Look at upgrading to the 2000-2002 10 quart oil pan. From what I understand, big sweeping turns can cause oil starvation and failure on the #3 bearing.

+1, Just did this upgrade myself as well as installing the trapdoor baffle kit that i purchased from JonB.

If you dont have the cash to drop on the 2000-2002 10qt oil pan(it is very pricey) then i'd recommend atleast dropping your oilpan and putting the 200some$ baffle kit in it. Also, if running the 8.5 qt pan i'd overfill her a half qt or so. Call JonB!

GoodLuck on the track

 

[Bexar80]

Thanks for the input.

My power steering bracket does not show any cracks but I check it periodically. From what I now take away is that the bracket usually just lets loose before a crack can be noticed. I suppose it should be added to my to do list, obviously it will not make it by this weekend though.

 

[SoCal Rebell]

I guess I **** at searching because I couldn’t find this after numerous searches.

As some of you know I couldn't stop tracking my GEN I. I really miss it and it's just a matter of time (and money) before I track my GEN II. So I wanted to get together a list of mods I would need to safely track my car. It already has steel braded brake lines and cooling ducts. And I am going to put in a 6 point before I track.

Here is what I got so far Prices are estimated and include shipping.

GTS track ready

$1500 Viper Parts of America PS2 Tires (my tires are old)
$250 EBC Yellow Brake pads (Put on stock rotors I got from a buddy)
$200 Fluids
Put extra clamps on radiator connections $20
K&N air filters $150 (Mine have seen better days)
Motor mounts $275 Woodhouse
Tom’s Brake upgrade $750


Maybe
Oil pan for Oiling issues? Where would I find this? Is this a must have? Is overfilling an option?

Anything Else I am missing? Are my prices off? I really am just looking for a goal to save up so I can get my new car on the track.

I am not sure of your year but from previous replies it looks like a mid/late 90s car.

First off if it is a '96 trash the wheel right now, they are welded and I've seen the come apart on the track. '97 and later is OK they are forged.

Pop for the 10 qt. oil pan and baffles, I seen 3 '97s put holes in their blocks due to oil starvation.

Trash the yellows, I use Brakeman 3s which are a good progressive pad for a non abs car.

All the other info is pretty good, but one thing I recommend from experience is get a set of channel locks and tighten down the power steering cap, hand tight doesn't cut it.

Good luck!

 

[Dom426h]

Pop for the 10 qt. oil pan and baffles, I seen 3 '97s put holes in their blocks due to oil starvation.

Realy? Please elaborate,
i thought the usual failure was nothing more than a spun bearing that could be replaced as well as the crank, then back on the road.

 

[Bill Pemberton Woodhouse]

Get a brake ducting kit long before you worry about upgrading the brakes. Airflow to the Gen IIs is virtually non-existent. Go with Brakeman 3s as SoCal Rebel suggested --- good linear feel and help you from flat spotting the right front ( you can feel it locking up with these pads ).

Fluid changes are way low, you definitely need fresh rear end fluid if it hasn't been changed recently, considering the miles on the car.

Plenty of less expensive things can be done, but a proper alignment is critical, especially with the new PS2s -- you don't want to chew them up immediately.

Bill P

 

[JonB]

Realy? Please elaborate,
i thought the usual failure was nothing more than a spun bearing that could be replaced as well as the crank, then back on the road.

The Year Matters. Early Gen 2, 96.5-1998, have a crappy pan in 2 ways:

1) Lower capacity than 99+
2) even worse, a rough-cast and small oil return line. I cannot even get my pinky-finger in there.

1+2 results in oil starvation as lateral Gs approach .95.....Sticky tires makes this even worse. The trap-door pan-baffles fix the anti-slosh-part of the starving, localizing oil above the drain, but not the bad return line. And I guarntee you that IF you overfill by .5qt you will PUKE OIL under hard track-braking into the intake, unless you prevent it aftermarket.

EVERYTHING that makes you lap faster, like stickies, alignment, better brakes, etc increase the oil starvation due to increased Gs! The Gen2+ pan + baffles is great insurance. The unobtanium Gen 2 ACR Oil Filter adapter aslo helped, but these are Loooonggg Gone.

Lots of 96-98 cars spun the # 3 or #2 bearings, resulting in a lower-end-rebuild, but some of those had catastrophic failures of holed-out-blocks. I have to assume the drivers did not recognize the symptoms fast enuf, but thats just conjecture on my part.

In my old racing days we called that "Starter Motor failure.....[a rod knocked the starter off!"]

Other comments:
Toms rear brake upgrade is excellent;
so are the anti-toe brackets that stop the queasy 'dancing' the rear end can do during extreme-threshold braking.
You will be KICKING YOURSELF when the P/S bracket brakes catastrophically.
Yellows are a great value, good novice-intermediate choice, but Brakeman 3 is great brakes even for advanced.
DONT REFILL DEXTRON-3 ATF as the earlyG2 OE fill plug states. Use the 2000+ synthetic.
Your price$ for Tire$ and KNS are HIGH...fill fluid$ LOW.

 

[Early93Viper]

For thouse not sure about my year I have WARFANGS 97:

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I am also wondering if the Tecnomagnesio wheels will handle track abuse.

 

[99 R/T 10]

If those are your daily driving wheels/tires, I would get a second set for the track. Cheap set of 17" 3 spokes or 18" 99-02 5 spokes would be best.

Your/Warfang's car looks great

 

[Early93Viper]

If those are your daily driving wheels/tires, I would get a second set for the track. Cheap set of 17" 3 spokes or 18" 99-02 5 spokes would be best.

Your/Warfang's car looks great

Thanks!

I have a set of old 17" 3 spokes that are UGLY LOL. I would really like to track the Tecnomagnesio as they are suppose to be one of the lightest wheels you can buy. And they already have some curb rash and are not perfect by any means. I just am wondering if they could handle the abuse.

 

[Bexar80]

Other comments:
Toms rear brake upgrade is excellent;
so are the anti-toe brackets that stop the queasy 'dancing' the rear end can do during extreme-threshold braking.
You will be KICKING YOURSELF when the P/S bracket brakes catastrophically.

All on my near future, over time list.

DONT REFILL DEXTRON-3 ATF as the earlyG2 OE fill plug states. Use the 2000+ synthetic.

Are you referencing the transmission fill or power steering? My 2000 model fill label on the tranny states, Castrol Syncro, but the owners and factory service manuals state dextron. I re-filled with Mobil-1 ATF four months ago when I did my clutch slave cylinder and have had no issues or neutral noise.

Sorry Early93Viper for carrying on so much, my hijack should be concluded and hopefully my questions contributed.

 

[Dom426h]

And I guarntee you that IF you overfill by .5qt you will PUKE OIL under hard track-braking into the intake, unless you prevent it aftermarket.

With my 8.5er .25-.5qt overfilled;
1 of the 3 road courses that i run causes some puking on a downhill acute angle turn at the end of a straightaway. But its due to the oil sloshing foward in the ValveCovers to the breather hose. Not the PVC line. I have a catchcan to catch this so it dosnt enter the airbox/intakemanfold.

With the 10qt that i just installed i plan on running at the F(full) line. I assume that i will have the same issue as the oil amount/level dosnt dictate howmuch oil is in the valvecovers unless she is starved...

 

[JonB]

All on my near future, over time list.

Are you referencing the transmission fill or power steering? My 2000 model fill label on the tranny states, Castrol Syncro, but the owners and factory service manuals state dextron. I re-filled with Mobil-1 ATF four months ago when I did my clutch slave cylinder and have had no issues or neutral noise. ...

What I stated was: """DONT REFILL DEXTRON-3 ATF as the early G2 OE fill plug states. Use the 2000+ synthetic. """

Early cars were fill-plug tagged for Dextron. 2000+ Vipers as yours used Castrol as OE, but the owners manuals did not reprint properly. Vipers that are tracked (or hate neutral gear rattle) should use the heavier synthetic..

 

[crazyspeed]

#1. Castrol SRF brake fluid @ $75 qt ( 518 deg WET boiling point)
#2 see #1 above
#3 I think Jon B @ parts rack sells a brake cooler duct kit
#4 Tom's brake upgrade for the rears
#5 Brakeman 3 pads
#6 Stock rotors absorb the most heat and don't crack
#7 Yep...we're working on the brakes
#8 Listen to Leslie...she knows about brake upgrades and how important they are
#9 Stay with your stock radiator if it's good and have it boiled out/flushed out
#10 The Viper Wizard has a trick where he uses a plastic tie(zip-tie) to tie together
the two spring clamps at the heater valve so that they don't slip off. also be sure to glance at the temp gauge every time you hit the straightaway

 

[SoCal Rebell]

If those are your daily driving wheels/tires, I would get a second set for the track. Cheap set of 17" 3 spokes or 18" 99-02 5 spokes would be best.

Your/Warfang's car looks great

Yeah again make sure they are forged wheels, any forged set will take track abuse. I was at Buttonwillow Raceway with a bunch of Viperguys and my buddy Manny Coats was running a set of "96 weld wheels. In a long sweeper the wheel broke off the hub, I thought he forgot to tighten the lugs, but the lugs were still on

The welds just disintergrated

 

[Bill Pemberton Woodhouse]

Lots of good advice , but have to politely disagree with Crazyspeed on stock rotors. I destroyed those and would suggest a Stoptech rotor over stock anyday. They disapate heat better , are lighter and stop faster. I do recommend staying away from drilled rotors ( just do slotted ), as they definitely have a tendency to crack.

 

[crazyspeed]

OH, and be sure the frame recalls have been done

 

[crazyspeed]

Lots of good advice , but have to politely disagree with Crazyspeed on stock rotors. I destroyed those and would suggest a Stoptech rotor over stock anyday. They disapate heat better , are lighter and stop faster. I do recommend staying away from drilled rotors ( just do slotted ), as they definitely have a tendency to crack.

Thanks Bill, which Stoptech rotors would you recommend for a 97 GTS if he stays with the stock size rotors? (btw how did you "destroy" the stock rotors).

I just thought this is getting too expensive for him. If he's gonna get new tires and new wheels and new Stoptech rotors and Tom's Rear Brake Calipers and new pads....may as well get 19" wheels and tires and full Stoptech rotors and Stoptech calipers all around.
No point in getting new Stoptech 13" rotors and new pads and then wish later he had got the bigger brakes....right Leslie?

 

[SoCal Rebell]

Thanks Bill, which Stoptech rotors would you recommend for a 97 GTS if he stays with the stock size rotors? (btw how did you "destroy" the stock rotors).

I just thought this is getting too expensive for him. If he's gonna get new tires and new wheels and new Stoptech rotors and Tom's Rear Brake Calipers and new pads....may as well get 19" wheels and tires and full Stoptech rotors and Stoptech calipers all around.
No point in getting new Stoptech 13" rotors and new pads and then wish later he had got the bigger brakes....right Leslie?

Bill hit the nail on the head, in my 2000 Gen II I had the Stoptech 4 wheel big brake set, actually I think I bought them from Bill It's a great setup, slotted not drilled. Take it from someone who has about 50 track days on the car, the brakes were never a factor (or non-factor). To top it off the pads are really easy to change out at the track.

BTW on a '97 you'll need 13" rotors on the front (with stock wheels), but if you put on 18" rims you'll be able to run the 14.2" (355 mm) rotors in front, they are killa