GTS went strangely silent tonight!

[Ratical2]

This has got me puzzled. My Horn and Chimes stopped working sometime between lunch and the time to go home(late night tonight-8PM). Note: the temps are much cooler then normal, Low 40's at night and there was a lot of condensation on the car.

I drove the Viper to work today and all is well. Went to Lunch and all was well. After work, I approached the car and hit the key fob to deactivate the alarm and the horn didn't sound. The key fob works, but no Honk. Pressing the horn on the steering wheel doesn't work either. When I got home and opened the door with the Headlamps still on, the annoying chimes weren't chimming. I have yet to check out whether or not the fuses have blown but would be surprised to lose fuses on two different circuits at the same time. I won't get a chance to look at it until tomorrow evening.

Anybody seen this before?

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

Not a clue here, but it reminds me of when someone tried to steal my Viper (failed attempt) a while back, it acted the very same way afterwards as you describe, horn didn't work, no chimming, and only the lights would flash with the key fob lock / unlock button. I had to disconnect the battery, reconnected it after a bit and it was back to normal. First I thought they cut some wires or pulled fuses, but it's been fine ever since. I just had to change the key lock cylinder since they pulled it.. Other than that, as most electrical related gremlin posts, maybe the battery is going.. Hopefully there isn't some sort of trick out there to disable the stock Viper alarm & horn, but I have to ask.. did it appear if anyone or could anyone mess with your car during that time?

PS - I would gladly exchange your colder than normal for our usual cold up here!

 

[Ratical2]

Very interesting... our parking lot is somewhat secluded and patroled. I didn't see any obvious signs of tampering. Honestly didn't think of it until you mentioned it. I have worked in this building 14 years and only know of one incident where a stereo was stolen.
The battery seems to be okay, but it may be getting a little weak. However, there was no problem starting the car.
At first I wondered if this was some intermittent problem brought on by the cold. I have only had the car since March and this is the coolest temps that I have experianced with it. I brought it home and parked it in the garage. I figured a heat soak would solve it if that was the problem. After an hour, no change. I will do the easy stuff first, check the fuses and what not. Then I may just reset the ecm by disconnecting the battery and inspect the battery while I am there.

Here is our weather for the week:

San Jose Weather Forecasts on Yahoo! Weather


I can't complain too much.

 

[dave6666]

Have you greased the horns lately? They are up there with "most neglected" during maintenance.

 

[Ratical2]

Man, I ran out of horn grease just last week, have you got any to spare?
I will loan you my squeegee sharpener for you windshield wipers....another commonly missed maintenance procedure.

 

[ryan94rt10]

how old is the battery...when they begin to fail, vipers do some strange things...might need a new battery. just a thought!

 

[Kmrumedy]

I think it may be a broken clockspring (#4848437).

 

[dave6666]

I think it may be a broken clockspring (#4848437).

Why would that affect the chime?

Isn't the clockspring airbag and horn exclusively?

 

[Ratical2]

Okay now I am confused....do I need to wind this spring or is automatically wound when the car is in motion?
Is that what the funny looking hook thing is for that comes inside the owners manual?

But seriously Kmrumedy you might have something there. I just found this on the web:
[FONT=Arial,Helvetica]Airbag Clockspring Repair - Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth Cars and Minivans[/FONT]

Update: recall may cover clockspring repairs

Chrysler is recalling about 500,000 1996-1998 minivans and an extending a warranty on 1.3 million more because of the clockspring in the steering wheel, which provides power to some internal components, may have been installed off-center. This may cause the air bag warning lamp to illuminate; the driver's air bag, horn, or cruise control may stop working. For details, call DCX at (800) 853-1403 and have your vehicle ID number handy.

I know this is talking about the Minivans but the key part is the clock spring can affect other circuits. Something else to look at anyway.

Thanks!

 

[dave6666]

The clockspring is not a wound spring.

Clockspring - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[Ratical2]

Hi Dave6666, my winding comment was in jest... I really enjoy reading your post and was trying to reply in kind... your post have me preconditioned to see the humorous side first

 

[Ratical2]

The Horn fuse is blown
The battery voltage checks good.
I will replace the fuse tomorrow and see what happens.
I haven't checked the buzzer fuse yet.

 

[dave6666]

Hi Dave6666, my winding comment was in jest... I really enjoy reading your post and was trying to reply in kind... your post have me preconditioned to see the humorous side first

Some might actually be taking notes like there's a quiz later. Just had to throw in something purely educational and informative!

 

[Ratical2]

Some might actually be taking notes like there's a quiz later. Just had to throw in something purely educational and informative!

It has been educational. I understand now what a clockspring is and you post as to it being horn and airbag exclusive. The clockspring purpose is to provide a connection for whatever switch is on the steering wheel. Never really thought about that before.

For the joker side of things check out this website: you can find all manner of interesting things, blinker fluid, muffler bearings, butt dyno etc.

KaleCoAuto, Hard to find automotive items!

 

[Denny Wagner]

"Horns? We don't need no stinkeeen horns!!"

 

[DAMN YANKEE]

Dave6666666 knows very well that you don't grease the horns...all the bearings are sealed.

 

[Ratical2]

Ladies and gentlemen, I am really confused now. I replaced the horn fuse on Friday and one of the two horns worked. I had not checked the buzzer( chime) fuse. Last night when I got home from picking my daughter up, my chime started magically working again.
I stopped off at the store today after church... one horn and chimes working, when I came back to the car the horn beeped a very short beep and then no more. Now the horn and the chime are silent again...

Should I replace the battery just because? The battery checks out to be in fair condition underload. The voltage in dead on 12.8v with no load.

One thing I can do, is check the left side horn. Possibly the positive wire to the horn has the conductor exposed somewhere making intermittent contact. That would cause fuse to blow if the wire was shorted to ground and I honked the horn, with either the horn switch or keyfob.

Any other Ideas out there?

 

[dave6666]

Vipers need good batteries. I would replace a fair battery. And would be interested to know how fair is being quantified. Load testing? Volt meter?

Anyway, a lead acid wet cell produces 2.2 volts. You car battery has 6 cells in it. Theoretical output is 13.2 volts at likely 70 deg F.

Put the voltmeter to it with a car horn jumpered across the terminals. Any old 12V car horn. Poor man's load test.

 

[Ratical2]

Hi Dave, Thanks for the help.
The no load test were conducted with DVM at 55 degrees ambient and cold engine. The fair condition assessment was made with an inexpensive Diagnostic tool that plugs into the cigerette lighter. It tests the battery voltage with the car off and headlamps on after 1 minute( I didn't test to see the voltage at this point). This will also show if the charging system is producing voltage and regulating it as well. I will probably go ahead and replace the battery as preventive maintainance.
That said about the battery, I am not sure how the battery can cause a blown Horn fuse or why the buzzer or chime has been affected by this separate circuit.
I didn't get a chance to dig into the battery for inspection lastweek but I will next week during the Christmas break. Company imposed 2 week shutdown, so I have some time to play.

 

[Ratical2]

Tonight I replaced the fuse( second time). I opened the door and turned on the head lights. Buzzer circuit works fine. I depress the horn, Horn sound stopped at the same time as a bright burst of light comes from the fuse block. Fuse number 2 went up in smoke literally! Guess what?... Buzzer doesn't work anymore either. So I break out the Viper Service manual and low and behold, the buzzer circuit takes it power from the same fuse as the Horn relay. Okay, now I have to figure out where my short is. Since the left side horn is not working that is my starting point. Either the horn or the wire from it to the fuse block has shorted to ground Looks like I will be calling JonB up for some parts.

 

[Ratical2]

I just saw this old thread and realized that I never reported the cause of the problem.

The driver side Horn shorted internally and caused the fuse to blow. I replaced the horn and fuse and all is well.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

I suppose Dave never took your offer for the squeegee sharpener.
His wipers are still as tharp as a sack.

 

[KNG SNKE]

Yep it is a 2 stage horn and if you lose a stage to ground you will blow it. My old one had a bad stage so my horn made my car sound a little pitiful.

 

[SkyBob]

Yep it is a 2 stage horn and if you lose a stage to ground you will blow it. My old one had a bad stage so my horn made my car sound a little pitiful.

The horn might sound a bit better if you route the output of one horn to the right side of the car and the other horn to the left side of the car.

 

[Leslie]

can't believe this thread was at the top again, my Viper did the same thing last night.

all worked well until I pulled it in the garage and went to hit the lock/horn on the key fob-no sound, car won't lock.

 

[RTTTTed]

Buzzers? Hornwork when you push on the steering wheels center?

Hopefully you just need a key FOB battery. DL2032 Duracell#

TED

 

[RTTTTed]

I should probably mention that everybody should have a second FOB. Near as our club (Wstrn Cda) has found out ... if you lose the key FOB and lock the car ... you're screwed! You'll be needing to buy an alarm module WITH a new FOB to reset your alarm. Cost about $1,000.

Ted

 

[dave6666]

I suppose Dave never took your offer for the squeegee sharpener.
His wipers are still as tharp as a sack.

I'm thinking about the Hella Supertone upgrade. That will make some barts come out your **** Tom.