Help! Front pads R&R

[SteveBCloud9]

Need a "how to" list on how to remove and replace the front pads on my snake. I've done brakes before, just not on the Viper. Your help would be great. I've got the pins out, what's next?

 

[NascarDave]

Steveb,
From memory, there are a couple springs on the pins. then the pads slide out. Slide the new ones in. You many have to screw the pistons counter-clockwise back in. There is a brake tool that I got at AutoZone and modified slightly to do this. I think a needle nose plliers will also work. Then re-assemble.

It's an easy process. This is just from memory, but, it wasn't hard to do.

Hope this helps,

Dave

 

[SteveBCloud9]

So I don't even have to take the caliper off huh.

 

[Janni]

No - caliper removal is not required for 2000 and older Vipers for EITHER front or rear.

Once you remove the pins, and the spring that fits between the pins, the pads should slide out by moving them towards the center and thenup or down along the rotor.

You'll need to pushthe pistons back into get hte new pads to fits. Only the back single piston requires the "special tool" or needle nose pliers to ratchet/turn it back into its hole. We usually use the pads themselves (with the friction material against the rotor_ to leverage the 2 pistons back into the caliper - one side at a time - when one side is done, place the pad in, then move the other pistons back in. (or is you have a caliper / piston spreader use that) All the while watch your brake fluid reservoir to be sure that it was not "too full" and by moving the pistons back, you don't overflow it.

After the second pad is in - check to see that the little spring is spread enough on the pins. Align one pin through the upper holes and set it with a punch. Then, slide the spring under the upper pin, pleace the lower pin through the first hole, bend the spring so that it goes under the pin, and align the pin to the second hole. Set pin. Make sure spring is settled.

Have pics taken for pad changes for both front and rear - have notes in install, just have not had time to make them pretty...

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

No, you don't need to remove the caliper. Punch the two pins out and pull out the old pads. Use a couple of wooden sticks or screwdrivers with tape on them to protect the pistons and rotor, and leverage them to push the pistons back in. Push the pistons in on one side of the caliper, insert the new pad then push the pistons in on the other side of the caliper and put the second pad in. Replace the pins and that little springy bracket thing then do the other caliper. Keep an eye on the reservior so it doesn't overflow when you push the pistons in.

Bleed.

It's easy.

 

[SteveBCloud9]

O.k. I got the old pads out. I think I should get the rotors cut because there's a little lip on the top of the rotor that interfers with the size of the new pad. How do I get the rotor off? Do I take off the 2 large bolts?

 

[SteveBCloud9]

Two rear bolts and the bolt to hold the fluid line and the rotor is OFF! Now, about this "little spring" where is it? I think it came with my EBC pads but I did not see it when i took out the 2 large 3" pins and the flexplate that sits in-between them.......

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by steveb:
the flexplate that sits in-between them.......


<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


That's the little springy thing.

 

[SteveBCloud9]

So the 1/2" little springs that EBC gave me are garbage..... Off to the shop to get the rotors cut.... Thanks for the help.... I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[SteveBCloud9]

Turns out the rotors are the exact same thickness as my Qtr. mile times 1.20 and out of spec. New ones should be on my doorstep Wednesday morning. Called EBC and there's no need to "scuff" the rotors.....

 

[JonB]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by steveb:
Called EBC and there's no need to "scuff" the rotors.....
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


If you use new or resurfaced (turned) rotors, you do not need to 'scuff' em when SWITCHING from Carbo-Metallic to EBC.

Otherwise, and Carb-Met pad to Kevlar swap on a USED SURFACE needs scuffing. Or experience reduced braking first 50 miles, and can be BAD depending on prior pads.........

 

[SteveBCloud9]

Update. Just got my new rotors and pads on. Wierd that the rotors come from Dodge dipped in grey paint so not to develop surface rust. The change WAS easy, after you have done it once. Most of my time was spent cleaning up the inner rims. If anyone is interested I can post exactly what I did.

Can someone post steps to change pads in the tech section where burping is, etc. I think it would be a great service.....