My opinion is that I don't have an opinion. Trying to diagnose something like this when you don't have the proper tools to give me concrete answers makes any realistic diagnostic tree completely useless.Well hell. Haven't you ever had a puzzle you wanted to solve? I'm not going to **** out. Yes, I made a mistake with crossed wires. Good grief. Happy to drive you crazy because you're so smart.
I've given TONS of explanation here. What's your opinion?
Explanation without fact is nothing more than a jumble of questionable items. What I *DO* know, is that you have introduced so many potential issues with the parts-swapping that even if I had my hands on the car itself, I would probably find the problem, and then tear the whole thing down and do it all over again to make sure no new "next issues" have been introduced accidentally.
I have solved more puzzles than I care to remember... thats literally what I do. None of them were solved by accident or chance.
I am a dick. I am well aware. Doesn't make me any less right, or any less good at diagnosing things. And dont think I am talking to just you... I am talking to any of the other owners that do the same thing, or any of the members that throw out ideas without knowing the first thing about how systems actually work or what the diagnostic process should be, as that encourages part-swapping behaviors. In cases like this you should ask for help at minute-1, long before the waters are muddied with other potential items from someone having their hands in everything. A proper scan tool, along with a Fuel pressure gauge, ignition, injection, and compression test would have given all the pertinent data back before you laid a finger on replacement items.
Go back to the beginning. Check EVERY SINGLE CYLINDER for spark. Check the wire routing again. Check with a Noid Light that injectors are actually actuating. Check compression on at least a few of the questionable cylinders. Check for soaked spark plugs. Check for closed plug gaps. Check for wiring damage. Check for a bogus PCM/ICM repair job- They didnt come from us, so by default they are questionable if they had any "repairs" done. Check for fuel pressure drop-off after prime to make sure it doesnt drop like a rock indicating a major bleed off into the engine. If everything tests OK, start the engine, and unplug the fuel pump relay while its running. If it runs like crap, then cleans up, and then dies... that points to excess fuel being dumped into the manifold somehow. If one bank is bone dry, but shows good compression, ignition is there, and injectors pulse... then there is an issue with the rail being plugged. Without more data points, I am guessing, same as you.
These are all tests that come long before replacing parts.
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