Help - my stick is too long!

[slaughterj]

I've FINALLY decided that I want a smoother-shifting experience, and was wondering what are ALL the options?

Offhand, I gather there are two:
1. Change my shifter knob
2. Get a short-throw shifter

Is that correct? Are there other options? Of these options, what are the particular choices available and prices (e.g., MGW, B&M, Rich Detert, etc.)? What are the advantages/disadvantages of each? I don't want a solid metal knob, since I don't want to grab ahold of that hot tip in the summertime when the top's off!

 

[ElDiablo Viper]

1. Will solve the hight problem. You can get a good one from MGW.

2. Will only change how smooth or tight your shifts are. I have B&M and was one of my first mods.

 

[Anthony - 98 GTS]

I have a B&M shifter with a Momo red/black shift knob to match my Momo steering wheel.

 

[slaughterj]

Where can you get B&M shifter & Momo knob?

Here's the link to MGW's First Strike knob:
http://www.mgwltd.com/viper_first_strike_race_knob.html
How do people like it?

 

[Marv S]

The SVSi shifter was also popular

 

[slaughterj]

1. Will solve the hight problem. You can get a good one from MGW.

2. Will only change how smooth or tight your shifts are. I have B&M and was one of my first mods.

A short-throw shifter will not reduce height, only adjust throws? That may be all I need - I feel like it's been a little notchy lately, catching in between 2/4, etc. - what's the right term to reduce that, to smooth or to tighten?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Have you changed your fluid? You put a lot of miles on your Viper. Mine seemed smoother after I changed the fluid.

 

[BigCarrot]

I did the MGW knob. It's shorter which gives you a better feel, and it's rubber, so it won't burn you. It's cheap too! I don't think it's worth the extra cash to do a short throw shifter. The stock one has a pretty short throw, it's just that as you said, the stick is too long. Rediculously long! I wish I had that problem in my pants instead of in my car!

 

[slaughterj]

Have you changed your fluid? You put a lot of miles on your Viper. Mine seemed smoother after I changed the fluid.

At close to 42k now, was planning to do a complete fluid overhaul at 45k...

 

[slaughterj]

the stick is too long. Rediculously long! I wish I had that problem in my pants instead of in my car!

With a name like Big Carrot, that should be your problem

 

[MichaelP]

Where can you get B&M shifter & Momo knob?

Here's the link to MGW's First Strike knob:
http://www.mgwltd.com/viper_first_strike_race_knob.html
How do people like it?

Funny you should ask I JUST installed one about 2 hours ago.

I like it ALOT. Have only shifted 10 or so times but I do like it.

It actually seems like I have less power from shift to shift.

Perhaps because I am shifting smoother and don't feel the usual jolt? I don't know.

I don't think it will help with the problems you are having with shifting though.

To see if you will like a shorter shifter just grab the current shifter down below the 'tennis ball'.

 

[pjb]

i just changed the knob at first (from stock to the MGW First Strike) and liked the improved feel. got the B&M Ripper installed a month ago, and in combination with the MGW knob, its absolutely fantastic. throws are very precise, smooth, and short. i just wish I had done it sooner. if you're up in the dc area you can give it a try. Id recommend it

 

[Devin 97 Blue GTS]

Here is a picture of The MGW w/ B&M

Here is a picture of The MGW w/ a B&M

You must be registered for see images

 

[Andy]

Re: Here is a picture of The MGW w/ B&M

Another option is to just change the shaft between the shifter mechanism and the shift knob. The stock shaft is a limp rubber job. You know how rubber dampens the feel of thrusting your knob, right? (he started it) The shorter steel shafts do two things: by lowering the height of the shifter, they shorten the throw. The solid steel shaft makes the shift feel crisper too

Anyway, the shorter shafts can be had for about $20 or less, and take about 5 minutes to install. You can use them with the stock knob, or an aftermarket knob too. Some people think that a short shaft and some of the aftermarket knobs puts the knob height too low. I've jammed my pinky when I had the old knob, and a really short shaft.

I'll ask the wife if you can play with my knob when you drive through DC tomorrow.

 

[Jack B]

Re: Here is a picture of The MGW w/ B&M

If you like the original MGW knob, you will love the the latest version. It has a much different feel. I have the new knob and the SVSI shifter, together there is a night and day difference. I found I couldn't use the SVSI supplied shaft. I used the medium length shaft from Rich Detert. I believe you can see the knob in a picture I posted in this forum under "Line-Lock Install" .

The perceived ergonomics will vary with the user, if someone wants my first generation MGW (First Strike) , first $50 takes it. You cannot tell it is used.

 

[Supercharged Vipermad]

Re: Here is a picture of The MGW w/ B&M

I finally took the plunge and swapped my MOMO knob (on stock shaft) for the stock red knob (on one of Rich Detert's modified shafts) and I couldn't be happier. Of course it was all driven by "poser points" for me. I ditched the stock, black knob in 99 for the MOMO. Just doing that dropped the height a bunch. I finally acquired all three red items for the interior (wheel, e-brake, knob) and put ogg installing the knob for weeks. What a PITA!!! Eight rivets to drill out....but after that it was easy. Height is at, or just below, where the MOMO was. Thanks Rich Detert!!!!!

 

[FRANK]

Re: Here is a picture of The MGW w/ B&M

Go with Rich Detert's shortened shaft shifter. I think its available in a few lengths and it is cheap. Low buck are my favorite words. Why spend hundreds for a short throw shifter when you can buy one shaft from Rich for the cost of two boxes of condoms? Save money and actually feel good about installing it yourself...

 

[Paolo Castellano]

Slaughter, I at one point had a short throw shifter installed in my car and raved about the positive feel of the shifts/etc... I later got a brand new transmission that had the stock shifter in it. I just put on my shifter knob with the shorter handle(sans stock long rubber isolator shaft) onto the stock shifter.

To be honest, I found this combination of the shorter all metal handle and the stock shifter to have the SAME positive feel as the aftermarket short throw shifter... In short, I believe it is the removal of the rubber isolator shaft/handle that makes for the positive feel I had originally attributed to the aftermarket shifter.

I think that the proper technique of aligning your elbow with 1st/2nd(Shifting 1-2 or 2-1), with 3rd-4th(Shifting 2-3,3-4,and 4-5 or 5-4) makes all the difference in the world. Most people miss 2-3 and 5-4... ==> Aligning your elbow with 3rd the instant after you do the 1-2 shift means you just push your hand straight up(from your elbow anchor placement) to 3rd. 3-4 is a piece of cake in this elbow position. 4-5 is just up to the right(keeping your elbow in the 3-4 grove)==> 5-4 shift(keeping your elbow in the 3-4 groove) is just out of 5th and straight down directly towards your elbow into 4th. You can even do a threashold braking stop/heel and toe downshift from 5th-3rd by just keeping your elbow in the 3-4 groove, pull the trans out of 5th with your fingers pulling the shift knob to your palm and then just push straight to 3rd as you blip the throttle to match the revs down to 3rd! ==> Practicing this will make you very consistent!

 

[Nexus-6]

I too just installed the First Strike knob about 2 weeks ago - love it. The stock knob/shaft was WAY too tall - the MGW FS knob is perfect.

I was gripping it overhand at first and thought my shifts were a little more awkward with it installed...then I started gripping it liked you're supposed to (hand wrapped around it like a...duh...a pistol grip with my finger in the indent) and voila - perfect shifts!

 

[Andy]

Tony, Why did you have to drill rivets to install a knob? I know that must be done to install the B&M, but know that you can do a shaft without doing that.

Also, I have always like the way the blue wheel/brake/shift combo looked in the 97 roadsters, and want to do that with my blue 97 coupe. Did you buy new leather stuff, or did you have things recovered?

 

[slaughterj]

To see if you will like a shorter shifter just grab the current shifter down below the 'tennis ball'.

FYI, in the 98s, we didn't have Mr. Microphone to shift with, we have a leather knob...

 

[slaughterj]

Re: Here is a picture of The MGW w/ B&M

You know how rubber dampens the feel of thrusting your knob, right? (he started it)

Yeah, it really *****

The shorter steel shafts do two things: by lowering the height of the shifter, they shorten the throw. The solid steel shaft makes the shift feel crisper too

Sounds like what I might try out, with everyone's suggestions here. I can go with that first, then decide on a knob later.

I'll ask the wife if you can play with my knob when you drive through DC tomorrow.

While I appreciate the offer to play with your knob, I won't be driving through DC for another month to Tator's

 

[slaughterj]

Re: Here is a picture of The MGW w/ B&M

Thanks for all the info everyone.

I think I'm going to try out Rich's short shifter first, and see how that goes. For those who have simply done that switch, did you feel you were able to shift better (i.e., have less problems getting the gear, less problems with a missed gear, etc.)?

Then I'll see about a first strike if I need more.

 

[ElDiablo Viper]

Re: Here is a picture of The MGW w/ B&M

With the stock shifter it was easy to put it in 1st instead of 3rd. With B&M is a lot harder since the centering springs are a lot stronger.

 

[Greg 99ACR Red and Silver]

Re: Here is a picture of The MGW w/ B&M

I have the Rich Detert shifter mod with the stock '99 ball.
It's the best $25 bucks I have spent on my Snake, and it is a quick/easy install.

 

[slaughterj]

To see if you will like a shorter shifter just grab the current shifter down below the 'tennis ball'.

FYI, in the 98s, we didn't have Mr. Microphone to shift with, we have a leather knob...

For example - 97/98 "knob" - http://www.richdetert.com/RichsShifterParts.htm

 

[Supercharged Vipermad]

You do NOT have to drill rivets to install a knob....but to change the SHAFT (which is what you do with one of Rich's) I thought it was the only way to get to the other end of the shaft. In retrospect....it MIGHT be possible to move the inside rubber boot down far enough to gain access (I just thought of that...after all that time drilling and then replacing rivets!!!). You'll see what I mean when you get to that point. Live and learn I guess!! LOL

FRANK is right...with Rich's short shaft and the stock 97 era knob I am VERY pleased!!

 

[Ron]

Tony, you are right, you do not have to drill anything to change the shift rod. All you do is push the boot down.

In fact you don't need to drill anything to change the shifter either. Someone a while back posted excellent directions on that very subject and it worked perfectly for me. I changed to the Kip Partridge, 303-697-5821 modified OEM shifter and found it a significant improvement. Higher spring rate on the left gate does the trick. A lot cheaper than the other solutions too.

If anyone wants the shifter change directions, let me know and I'll dig them up.

 

[NCVCA]

"Help - my stick is too long! "

Do you have anyone to coroborate this claim?