Nice looking kit. Do the relays get power straight from the battery or do they get fed from the stock harness?
Thanks,
Ulysses
Ulysses,
The power supply that the system uses comes from an independent 12V source. The relay is activated by the 12V from the stock harness. I ran a positive lead to the connector in the image below. I covered it with corrugated flex tubing and ran it along an existing wire loom. The photos should explain it better.
That kit looks just like the one I used, except mine didn't come with the relay harnesses. What do they do anyway?
Ronnie, here's an explaination for the relay.(Your kit may have been designed to work without the relay. Its certainly easier and cleaner without it.)
"How can I ensure that I do not fry my cars internal headlight harness?"
"During normal HID operation, you use only 42 watts (35W to run the bulb plus 7W in heat losses in ballast) instead of the 55 watts that the halogen bulb uses, which is less, but, during HID cold startup, and for the first several seconds during warmup, the HID system can draw up to
triple the normal operating power to run the ignitor circuit during that time. As the bulb warms up, the current draw tapers down to the normal running level. By powering the ballast through a relay straight from the battery to HID ballast, the heavy load is removed from stock headlight curcuit. Triggering the relay only requires 0.1 amps, so stock headlamp curcuit has no problem powering that. A relay is just a remotely mounted heavy duty switch, and the trigger power that goes to it just draws a small amount of current through the headlight switch to run an electromagnet that mechanically closes the contacts inside the relay which in turn hooks battery power strait to HID ballast power terminal. This insures that you wont ever overdrive the ratings of your vehicle's harness."
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