Nadine UK GTS
Enthusiast
This is the same post as on the Alley, so if you've seen it there first 
no point in reading on (!) but I'm hoping someone can advise re should I do a frame gusset?
After having to replace a broken clutch slave and many other probs (and missing out on booked track days / events) I finally got to get Viper out this year! Just 'limped' back from 3 day event racing in Isle of Man; they closed the public roads on parts of the famous TT-bike course to road race, hill-climb the cars. It was fast, bumpy, narrow, with no run off, dangerous but exciting. Day1, the first race was at night, a steep climb up through the narrow streets and over cross roads to the TT start/finish straight. I was nervous; the odds were on me to set the fastest time of the day! We weren't aloud to do a burn out and had to run street tires, so I spun in the first 3 gears, started to spin a little in 4th too, then the Kumhos started to hook, so I rolled into it some more at about 120mph, we were going blind up over the hill, I knew to keep left for the right turn over the brow, but we got too light over the brow and although I lifted as soon as I felt him start to go, at that speed I wasn't able to catch him. The wheel spin was enough to through us off, and we bounced over the sidewalk and off a concrete wall. The skid marks left behind were 250ft long, and for most of that I was just a passenger. Hay bales were sent high into the air across gardens, but they did help to deflect the car off the wall and lampposts. I was very, very lucky the rear kicked out to the right, as if he'd gone the other way, we would have headed straight at a huge crowd stood behind metal railings; that for sure would not have held back 4000lbs of car at 120mph. I'm gutted over the damage, but lucky the accident was not worse.
Lower front right frame rail's twisted and was hit up splitting the condenser, rad is also leaking. Fog lights gone and passenger side glass was knocked out. Side pipe and 3 of the wheels damaged. Left side of body trashed, and steel door bar brace bent so door wouldn't shut. Worst are both drivers upper and lower front frame rails are bent, crumpled in behind the rearmost front A-arm mounts (car pulling to the left with the left wheel now sitting further back, towing out etc). After checking all out, and much help from others loaning kit, etc, I was able to drive him (many thanks to Joel and also the GT40 club). Although his alignment was shot, due to what it cost me to enter and drive over there, via ferry, I carried on with the event over the next couple of days! Day 2 on the sprint, we were moved to run on the track with the fastest group of cars, as first time out we were overtaking too much, and day 3 I won my class despite taking it 'steady' up apparently the longest and steepest hill climb in the British Isles. All credit to the Viper, we had to drive home too!
Went to see about getting the frame jigged out and straighter, it can be done (when I can afford it for about $1k). But, I'm after advice as I'm worried it's already a weak point (crumple zone holes). I'm thinking of welding in a gusset, to triangulate this area of the lower frame rail to the 90degree rail back from it. It will make accessibility to adjust the suspension cam-bolt tricky, but I think will strengthen the area. (I'd do the gusset, like as done in the 998 recall to strengthen the steering rack mount area.) Have any of you that track your cars done this? I had a look at the GTS-R frame and it's different, much stronger with it's own turret that the A-arm mounts to.
Top of the mountain, there's a big drop over the edge!
Battle scars.
Cup I won, fastest in over 2.0L Sports class. You can see in pic how far back front wheel is from frame getting crumpled.
Little vid Neil's kindly put together, and hosted on VA. First part is a steady siting run at start of Day3 hill climb, then the Day1 hillclimb crash, if link works:
http://[******]/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/25226/cat/509
no point in reading on (!) but I'm hoping someone can advise re should I do a frame gusset?After having to replace a broken clutch slave and many other probs (and missing out on booked track days / events) I finally got to get Viper out this year! Just 'limped' back from 3 day event racing in Isle of Man; they closed the public roads on parts of the famous TT-bike course to road race, hill-climb the cars. It was fast, bumpy, narrow, with no run off, dangerous but exciting. Day1, the first race was at night, a steep climb up through the narrow streets and over cross roads to the TT start/finish straight. I was nervous; the odds were on me to set the fastest time of the day! We weren't aloud to do a burn out and had to run street tires, so I spun in the first 3 gears, started to spin a little in 4th too, then the Kumhos started to hook, so I rolled into it some more at about 120mph, we were going blind up over the hill, I knew to keep left for the right turn over the brow, but we got too light over the brow and although I lifted as soon as I felt him start to go, at that speed I wasn't able to catch him. The wheel spin was enough to through us off, and we bounced over the sidewalk and off a concrete wall. The skid marks left behind were 250ft long, and for most of that I was just a passenger. Hay bales were sent high into the air across gardens, but they did help to deflect the car off the wall and lampposts. I was very, very lucky the rear kicked out to the right, as if he'd gone the other way, we would have headed straight at a huge crowd stood behind metal railings; that for sure would not have held back 4000lbs of car at 120mph. I'm gutted over the damage, but lucky the accident was not worse.
Lower front right frame rail's twisted and was hit up splitting the condenser, rad is also leaking. Fog lights gone and passenger side glass was knocked out. Side pipe and 3 of the wheels damaged. Left side of body trashed, and steel door bar brace bent so door wouldn't shut. Worst are both drivers upper and lower front frame rails are bent, crumpled in behind the rearmost front A-arm mounts (car pulling to the left with the left wheel now sitting further back, towing out etc). After checking all out, and much help from others loaning kit, etc, I was able to drive him (many thanks to Joel and also the GT40 club). Although his alignment was shot, due to what it cost me to enter and drive over there, via ferry, I carried on with the event over the next couple of days! Day 2 on the sprint, we were moved to run on the track with the fastest group of cars, as first time out we were overtaking too much, and day 3 I won my class despite taking it 'steady' up apparently the longest and steepest hill climb in the British Isles. All credit to the Viper, we had to drive home too!
Went to see about getting the frame jigged out and straighter, it can be done (when I can afford it for about $1k). But, I'm after advice as I'm worried it's already a weak point (crumple zone holes). I'm thinking of welding in a gusset, to triangulate this area of the lower frame rail to the 90degree rail back from it. It will make accessibility to adjust the suspension cam-bolt tricky, but I think will strengthen the area. (I'd do the gusset, like as done in the 998 recall to strengthen the steering rack mount area.) Have any of you that track your cars done this? I had a look at the GTS-R frame and it's different, much stronger with it's own turret that the A-arm mounts to.
Top of the mountain, there's a big drop over the edge!
Battle scars.
Cup I won, fastest in over 2.0L Sports class. You can see in pic how far back front wheel is from frame getting crumpled.
Little vid Neil's kindly put together, and hosted on VA. First part is a steady siting run at start of Day3 hill climb, then the Day1 hillclimb crash, if link works:
http://[******]/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/25226/cat/509
