v10enomous
Enthusiast
How Big a Job is a Battery Replacement on a GTS ?
Read/see this post by ViperTony...it's a great help!!!
http://forums.viperclub.org/illustr...y-tray-cleaning-guide-photos.html#post2522974
Got this message...
v10enomous, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:
Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.
You need to be a member to access the "how to" section. Sorry!
And we'd love to have you!!!
http://forums.viperclub.org/new-owner-questions/603453-new-viper-owner-time-join-vca.html
I have a deposit on the car and the Viper tech just completed the inspection and it checked out. The battery was the only real issue... My concern is that they won't be able to unload the car from the transport vehicle...
Are there any concerns with computer resets or anything else while doing the battery reset ? Is it a special battery that needs to be special ordered on a 98 GTS ?
You don't have to remove the wheel, just makes it easier. If I recall correctly, you don't even have to jack up the car either. I disconnected the battery terminal while I did the Roe install without jacking up the rear or removing the wheel and there was plenty of room to remove the battery. Might have to have a jack to clear the battery from under the vehicle though, tough call.
sears die hard or interstate battery. nothing special. do your homework on the optima battery, not too many good things said about it.
Its not hard at all.
Steps:
(1) Disconnect Positive terminal under hood
Rev
Be VERY careful removing the 15mm nut from the +/positive stud [GENII]!! IF the stud turns when removing the nut, you have now ruined/damaged a $2400 harness!! My "two cents", for changing the battery, no need to remove it, your battery is at the end of your electrical loop.
Take the wheel off for your first time doing a battery, it will feel better.
Tech line: 914-763-3136
Be VERY careful removing the 15mm nut from the +/positive stud [GENII]!! IF the stud turns when removing the nut, you have now ruined/damaged a $2400 harness!! My "two cents", for changing the battery, no need to remove it, your battery is at the end of your electrical loop.
Take the wheel off for your first time doing a battery, it will feel better.
Tech line: 914-763-3136
While your at it, go lighter to. I shaved 23lbs off my car..
Be VERY careful removing the 15mm nut from the +/positive stud [GENII]!! IF the stud turns when removing the nut, you have now ruined/damaged a $2400 harness!! My "two cents", for changing the battery, no need to remove it, your battery is at the end of your electrical loop.
Take the wheel off for your first time doing a battery, it will feel better.
Tech line: 914-763-3136
Cool battery! But, next time you're in there, tie off the positive lead from your battery tender and put it in spiral wrap or something - you're just asking for it to chafe against the battery tray and short out...
OK, now I'm curious. I must have replaced my battery three or four times and either I got lucky or that 15mm nut isn't one that most people like me would remove. I'll keep that info in the back of my mind because I'm planning on swapping out the battery pretty soon. I still can't picture which nut you're talking about, though - but I guess it will be obvious when I have the wrenches out...
Edit: duh, never mind - you are talking about the one at the power distribution center and not at the battery. I got it now.
Cool battery! But, next time you're in there, tie off the positive lead from your battery tender and put it in spiral wrap or something - you're just asking for it to chafe against the battery tray and short out...
Be VERY careful removing the 15mm nut from the +/positive stud [GENII]!! IF the stud turns when removing the nut, you have now ruined/damaged a $2400 harness!!
I am with Martin on this one. I am confused as to why the positive terminal under the hood needs to be disconnected? Also this step is not mentioned in the shop manual.
Please enlighten me.....
I believe that a lot peoples think that by doing so, you're disconnecting the + side of the battery, beside the fact that, as Chuck said it's safer to do it at the battery, it's not even true since tjhere is another + connection just above the battery for the fuel pump and amplifier relays