How Big a Job is a Battery Replacement on a GTS ?

RevHeat

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Its not hard at all.

Steps:

(1) Disconnect Positive terminal under hood
(2) Jack up LR
(3) Remove LR wheel
(4) Remove rear fender liner
(5) Remove hold-down bolts
(6) Disconnect battery leads
(7) Remove battery
(8) Install new battery
(9) Install hold down bolts and attach leads
(10)Reconnect positive terminal under hood
(11)Check to see if battery works (i.e. turn on radio) Attention: (careful on jacks)
(12)Re-install fender liner and wheel

Total time is 45 minutes to 1 hour.

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Rev
 
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v10enomous

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Ratical2

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I just did mine last Wednesday. Start to finish 1 hour. I could do it quicker now.
The biggest hassle is getting the car up and the wheel off...oh, yeah, you need 8mm, 10mm 11mm and 1/2 sockets and a small pry tool for one of the fasteners.
Don't ask me why they use 4 different fastners for one access panel.
 

Ratical2

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You need to be a member to access the "how to" section. Sorry!
 

KNG SNKE

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You don't have to remove the wheel, just makes it easier. If I recall correctly, you don't even have to jack up the car either. I disconnected the battery terminal while I did the Roe install without jacking up the rear or removing the wheel and there was plenty of room to remove the battery. Might have to have a jack to clear the battery from under the vehicle though, tough call.
 

Steve-Indy

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v10enomous, you can access a great deal more info here if you are VCA MEMBER!.
Here is another thread that gives some useful info...including the correct tools.

http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/611696-battery-removal-thread.html#post2504944

However, ViperTony's thread is REALLY better as it has photos.
 
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v10enomous

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I have a deposit on the car and the Viper tech just completed the inspection and it checked out. The battery was the only real issue... My concern is that they won't be able to unload the car from the transport vehicle...

Are there any concerns with computer resets or anything else while doing the battery reset ? Is it a special battery that needs to be special ordered on a 98 GTS ?


 

kcobean

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I have a deposit on the car and the Viper tech just completed the inspection and it checked out. The battery was the only real issue... My concern is that they won't be able to unload the car from the transport vehicle...

Are there any concerns with computer resets or anything else while doing the battery reset ? Is it a special battery that needs to be special ordered on a 98 GTS ?

When the battery is removed, it will reset the computer. No issues there. These cars are known to act strangely with batteries that are dying or not fully charged, so if there is any doubt about the battery's condition, I would have it replaced ASAP (if you can kick in a few bucks to have it replaced before you take possession, I think it would be worth it.)

Otherwise, if it will hold off for a few weeks, as soon as the car is yours you should join the VCA. You'll be able to take advantage of our members-only Optima battery program and get a good battery at a great price shipped right to your door!
 

plumcrazy

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sears die hard or interstate battery. nothing special. do your homework on the optima battery, not too many good things said about it.
 

bushido

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While your at it, go lighter to. I shaved 23lbs off my car..

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Camfab

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You don't have to remove the wheel, just makes it easier. If I recall correctly, you don't even have to jack up the car either. I disconnected the battery terminal while I did the Roe install without jacking up the rear or removing the wheel and there was plenty of room to remove the battery. Might have to have a jack to clear the battery from under the vehicle though, tough call.


:boggled: Different strokes for different folks.
 

RevHeat

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sears die hard or interstate battery. nothing special. do your homework on the optima battery, not too many good things said about it.

I totally agree with Plum. Sears Die Hard was rated #1 by Consumer Reports with AutoZones Duralast GOLD coming in second. I have always used AutoZone and have had great results.

AutoZone.com | | Battery | DURALAST GOLD BATTERY

Rev
 

Viper Wizard

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Its not hard at all.

Steps:

(1) Disconnect Positive terminal under hood
Rev


Be VERY careful removing the 15mm nut from the +/positive stud [GENII]!! IF the stud turns when removing the nut, you have now ruined/damaged a $2400 harness!! My "two cents", for changing the battery, no need to remove it, your battery is at the end of your electrical loop.

Take the wheel off for your first time doing a battery, it will feel better. :smirk:

Tech line: 914-763-3136 :cool:
 

eucharistos

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Be VERY careful removing the 15mm nut from the +/positive stud [GENII]!! IF the stud turns when removing the nut, you have now ruined/damaged a $2400 harness!! My "two cents", for changing the battery, no need to remove it, your battery is at the end of your electrical loop.

Take the wheel off for your first time doing a battery, it will feel better. :smirk:

Tech line: 914-763-3136 :cool:

certainly > 2 cents

thanks chuck
 

Asp Man

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Be VERY careful removing the 15mm nut from the +/positive stud [GENII]!! IF the stud turns when removing the nut, you have now ruined/damaged a $2400 harness!! My "two cents", for changing the battery, no need to remove it, your battery is at the end of your electrical loop.

Take the wheel off for your first time doing a battery, it will feel better. :smirk:

Tech line: 914-763-3136 :cool:


+1 on that! Dealer bought me a new PDC/harness a few years ago, as thier "skilled tech." (so-called Viper certified) did exactly that. Don't bother with that stud, but I would remove the wheel, who needs the grief!
See below for results...

Note how the lug has turned against the plastic relay box of the PDC. The ham ****** idiot also broke the tab on the red post cover, lucky for me it came with the new PDC.
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Another view.
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Martin

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Be VERY careful removing the 15mm nut from the +/positive stud [GENII]!! IF the stud turns when removing the nut, you have now ruined/damaged a $2400 harness!! My "two cents", for changing the battery, no need to remove it, your battery is at the end of your electrical loop.

Take the wheel off for your first time doing a battery, it will feel better. :smirk:

Tech line: 914-763-3136 :cool:

OK, now I'm curious. I must have replaced my battery three or four times and either I got lucky or that 15mm nut isn't one that most people like me would remove. I'll keep that info in the back of my mind because I'm planning on swapping out the battery pretty soon. I still can't picture which nut you're talking about, though - but I guess it will be obvious when I have the wrenches out...

Edit: duh, never mind - you are talking about the one at the power distribution center and not at the battery. I got it now.
 

bushido

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Cool battery! But, next time you're in there, tie off the positive lead from your battery tender and put it in spiral wrap or something - you're just asking for it to chafe against the battery tray and short out...

Thanks, it's already been done..:drive:
 

FrankBarba

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If your worried about the battery, & the tech mentioned it to you...why not have the tech put a new battery in for you?
 

Ratical2

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OK, now I'm curious. I must have replaced my battery three or four times and either I got lucky or that 15mm nut isn't one that most people like me would remove. I'll keep that info in the back of my mind because I'm planning on swapping out the battery pretty soon. I still can't picture which nut you're talking about, though - but I guess it will be obvious when I have the wrenches out...

Edit: duh, never mind - you are talking about the one at the power distribution center and not at the battery. I got it now.

I am with Martin on this one. I am confused as to why the positive terminal under the hood needs to be disconnected? Also this step is not mentioned in the shop manual.

Please enlighten me.....
 

eucharistos

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Cool battery! But, next time you're in there, tie off the positive lead from your battery tender and put it in spiral wrap or something - you're just asking for it to chafe against the battery tray and short out...

good pic catch :2tu:

thanks
 

RevHeat

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Be VERY careful removing the 15mm nut from the +/positive stud [GENII]!! IF the stud turns when removing the nut, you have now ruined/damaged a $2400 harness!!

Thanks Chuck, did not know about this. Always learning something new. For those that upgrade their stereo systems, this is good info also.

Rev
 

luc

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I am with Martin on this one. I am confused as to why the positive terminal under the hood needs to be disconnected? Also this step is not mentioned in the shop manual.

Please enlighten me.....

I believe that a lot peoples think that by doing so, you're disconnecting the + side of the battery, beside the fact that, as Chuck said it's safer to do it at the battery, it's not even true since tjhere is another + connection just above the battery for the fuel pump and amplifier relays
 

Ratical2

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I believe that a lot peoples think that by doing so, you're disconnecting the + side of the battery, beside the fact that, as Chuck said it's safer to do it at the battery, it's not even true since tjhere is another + connection just above the battery for the fuel pump and amplifier relays

That's what I was thinking. The terminal under the hood is only an extension of the positive power lead. Removing it does not disconnect the battery. The only connections you need to worry about when changing the battery are the pos and neg terminals on the battery.

Every manual that I have every read clearly states the removal of the negative lead to perform any electrical repairs. This is always the terminal I disconnect first.
 

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