How in the He!!?
- Thread starter TowDawg
- Start date
Kevan
Enthusiast
Thanks for the reminder, Dave.
I need to take a few broken tools back to the Craftsman store.
I remember reading a thread on a forum many moons ago about tool manufacturers and manufacturing.
You'd be amazed at how many brands come from the same factory but simply have different stamping/labeling on them.
EVERY manufacturer has defective units.
Yes- even Snap-On and MAC and Craftsman.
I've seen perfectly good pieces of 7075 just fracture. No major stress; no outside forces; it just let go.
It ***** that Tom found one of the defective ones, but I'm sure we can find him one that will work for him (and his workload).
I'm sorry that HF torque wrenches don't please you, Dave.
But to some, they work just fine....and I'll prove that later when I find the story I'm looking for. Give me a couple of hours and I'll post it here.
Tom- use an extension (3" or 6") when torquing lug nuts. It keeps the tool away from the car body and does not affect torque values.
Electrical tape around the outside of the socket and a towel wrapped around the wrench for those that are ********.
I'd be happy to take them down to JEG'S and check them for you on their digital scale.
Plus it'll motivate me to go do mine.
I need to take a few broken tools back to the Craftsman store.
I remember reading a thread on a forum many moons ago about tool manufacturers and manufacturing.
You'd be amazed at how many brands come from the same factory but simply have different stamping/labeling on them.
EVERY manufacturer has defective units.
Yes- even Snap-On and MAC and Craftsman.
I've seen perfectly good pieces of 7075 just fracture. No major stress; no outside forces; it just let go.
It ***** that Tom found one of the defective ones, but I'm sure we can find him one that will work for him (and his workload).
I'm sorry that HF torque wrenches don't please you, Dave.
But to some, they work just fine....and I'll prove that later when I find the story I'm looking for. Give me a couple of hours and I'll post it here.
Tom- use an extension (3" or 6") when torquing lug nuts. It keeps the tool away from the car body and does not affect torque values.
Electrical tape around the outside of the socket and a towel wrapped around the wrench for those that are ********.
If you aren't able to find anyone locally, you can send them to me.
I'd be happy to take them down to JEG'S and check them for you on their digital scale.
Plus it'll motivate me to go do mine.
CHECK AND MAKE SHURE YOUR BACKING PLATE IS NOT HITTING THE INNER SIDE OF YOUR ROTOR for your scrape noise, if its actually the hub, thats 1 in a million that actually has made a scrape noise, i have heard one before but not a common noise for a hub
dave6666
Enthusiast
I work in industry. Our tools get dropped from high places, beat on, beat with, chemical exposure, driven over, and every other imaginable way to ruin one and void the warranty. I take that attitude and spec home with me.
Here's a homework assignment for you HF guys... Ask any linesman if he'd wear a pair of hot work gloves from HF.
Here's a homework assignment for you HF guys... Ask any linesman if he'd wear a pair of hot work gloves from HF.
uvbnbit
Enthusiast
If you aren't able to find anyone locally, you can send them to me.
I'd be happy to take them down to JEG'S and check them for you on their digital scale.
Plus it'll motivate me to go do mine.
Got a vise, tape measure, 20lb weight, marker and string to hold aforementioned weight?
Kevan
Enthusiast
PREFACE:
My buddy Justin found a KZ750 buried in a sand dune in west Texas. He dug the bike out himself and hauled it back to his place for a complete rebuild. He would send me pics on occasion of the tear-down and build-up. Every nut, bolt, ring, and wire came out and went back in.
One picture showed him with a beam-type torque wrench. It was from 1908 and used originally to assemble tiny train tracks, like those you see at the carnival. That was his only torque wrench.
Now Justin doesn't have a lot of money and has some pretty serious health issues, but I saw and read how awesome building this bike made him feel, so I decided to help him out.
I went down to Harbor Freight and picked up a set of torque wrenches (1/4", 3/8", 1/2"), boxed them up, and sent them down to Justin.
Here's a link to the thread after he received the box of torque wrenches from me:
UTMC :: View topic - On Torque Wrenches...
The bike has been back together for a while now. It's now a VERY slick looking cafe-style racer (think: ToeCutter) and it runs like a champ.
He's got two more bike projects in the works and is very grateful to have a nice set of torque wrenches to help him get those bikes built and on the road.
Even if they are from Harbor Freight.
My buddy Justin found a KZ750 buried in a sand dune in west Texas. He dug the bike out himself and hauled it back to his place for a complete rebuild. He would send me pics on occasion of the tear-down and build-up. Every nut, bolt, ring, and wire came out and went back in.
One picture showed him with a beam-type torque wrench. It was from 1908 and used originally to assemble tiny train tracks, like those you see at the carnival. That was his only torque wrench.
Now Justin doesn't have a lot of money and has some pretty serious health issues, but I saw and read how awesome building this bike made him feel, so I decided to help him out.
I went down to Harbor Freight and picked up a set of torque wrenches (1/4", 3/8", 1/2"), boxed them up, and sent them down to Justin.
Here's a link to the thread after he received the box of torque wrenches from me:
UTMC :: View topic - On Torque Wrenches...
The bike has been back together for a while now. It's now a VERY slick looking cafe-style racer (think: ToeCutter) and it runs like a champ.
He's got two more bike projects in the works and is very grateful to have a nice set of torque wrenches to help him get those bikes built and on the road.
Even if they are from Harbor Freight.
Treat your tools well and they'll do the same to you.
I'll bet he would if his other choice was bare hands.
dave6666
Enthusiast
We don't treat our tools well and we don't have to. We buy good ones not POS's from HF.
Stupid answer on the lineman question BTW. They are not human voltmeters
Stupid answer on the lineman question BTW. They are not human voltmeters
TowDawg
Enthusiast
Thanks for the tip. I didn't look specifically at that, but I would assume that would leave a mark on the rotor wouldn't it? The only mark I found on a rotor was from the rock stuck in the brake pad.
Also, wouldn't it make the noise even with no weight on the wheels? I turned everything by hand while the car was up and heard nothing. I even put it in gear and let it turn the wheels and didn't hear anything while the car was suspended. It only seems to do it when the weight of the car is on it.
I'm 99.9% sure it's coming from the pass side rear wheel area from putting the top down and listening to it.
dave6666
Enthusiast
Prior to the dial indicator runnout confirmation step, I had to have someone stand outside my car as I coasted by to confirm front or rear. I could tell by the sound reflection it was the pass side, but not front or rear. Maybe in a rag top it's easier. I have one of them damn hard tops.
TowDawg
Enthusiast
Ulllose was 100% on the money with the comment on the driver's side inner ebrake pad sticking! Damn, I feel like an idiot!
I decided to double check some stuff and I drove around with my head hanging out the open door and realized it WAS actually coming from the driver's side (which is where the scored rotor was).
I pulled the wheel off noticed fresh rotor shavings around the ebrake caliper, so I pulled the pads again. DOH!!!! The inside pad is not a pad anymore (see pic), but just piece of metal! I left the pads out and went for drive around the neighborhood and NO MORE NOISE!
That being said, how do you fix the sticking problem that '03's are apparently known for? And does anyone need a spare wheel hub bearing? lol
I'll start a new thread on fixing the sticking issue.
Thank you so much for everyone's help on this!
I decided to double check some stuff and I drove around with my head hanging out the open door and realized it WAS actually coming from the driver's side (which is where the scored rotor was).
I pulled the wheel off noticed fresh rotor shavings around the ebrake caliper, so I pulled the pads again. DOH!!!! The inside pad is not a pad anymore (see pic), but just piece of metal! I left the pads out and went for drive around the neighborhood and NO MORE NOISE!
That being said, how do you fix the sticking problem that '03's are apparently known for? And does anyone need a spare wheel hub bearing? lol
I'll start a new thread on fixing the sticking issue.
Thank you so much for everyone's help on this!
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