NI-KA
Enthusiast
I now have the Hurst in mine. Took out old B&M. This was all done alomg with a tranny rebuild. New Clutch and drive shaft. Feels good so far. Very positive shifts. Good feel.
Hurst Shifter install
- Thread starter MoparBoyy
- Start date
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
Well somethings not right with mine 
I am having to use two hands to get the thing in reverse, the shaft in this process is beginning to show signs of wear where it is touching the side of the cut out Theres no way it should be this hard to shift either the springs inside the Hurst shifter are too strong or what I suspect is the lower shaft (with the ball end on it) is too long (when compared to the original) Im really not happy about it. Nadine came over recently and tried the shifter while the car was in the Garage, even she thought somethings not right
Can you guys select reverse easy with one hand?
Im so hacked off with it I feel like going and buying the Quaife Sequential box and be done with it, I hate the 6 speed tremec box
I am having to use two hands to get the thing in reverse, the shaft in this process is beginning to show signs of wear where it is touching the side of the cut out Theres no way it should be this hard to shift either the springs inside the Hurst shifter are too strong or what I suspect is the lower shaft (with the ball end on it) is too long (when compared to the original) Im really not happy about it. Nadine came over recently and tried the shifter while the car was in the Garage, even she thought somethings not right Can you guys select reverse easy with one hand?
Im so hacked off with it I feel like going and buying the Quaife Sequential box and be done with it, I hate the 6 speed tremec box
Paul S Lacey
Enthusiast
Hated mine with the Woodhouse mounts that are more solid and went back to the standard shifter, the lack of the rubber insulator on the shaft produced a constant background noise in the car like a badly tuned radio or eggs frying.
The Woodhouse mounts easily stopped most of the changing problems by stopping the shifter moving with the gearbox, that coupled to the old school elbow out when changing from 2nd to 3rd.
The Woodhouse mounts easily stopped most of the changing problems by stopping the shifter moving with the gearbox, that coupled to the old school elbow out when changing from 2nd to 3rd.
AZTVR
Enthusiast
I never had the problem that you describe; so, I don't think that there is an issue with the internal design of the shifter.
I would suspect external interference of the shifter shaft with the ashtray surround; or, something is messed up with the plastic cup that the shifter ball end fits in.
steve911
Enthusiast
What is happening is the shifter shaft (say that 3 times fast) is rubbing on the underside of the sheetmetal that forms the top of the trans tunnel when you go to shift into reverse. If you lightly bump the metal up, It will make allof the difference in the world.
My coupe has a urethane trans mount and that what I had to do. The coupe is stock and it just barely clears.
My coupe has a urethane trans mount and that what I had to do. The coupe is stock and it just barely clears.
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
So took a small angle grinder to the side of the transmission tunnel cut out and shaved off about 2mm where the shifter rod was brushing the metal trying to get into reverse. Not for the faint hearted, covered everything up first including the head lining, dash windshield etc. Drove the car today some 70 miles. I will have to get used to the shifter, yep still missed a couple of gears downshifting
But what I will say is this, Driving the car early this morning, mist lifting on the dry roads no covers on the transmission tunnel, windows down, fully decatted exhaust ......Coor What a Noise .....What a car I Just love it
But what I will say is this, Driving the car early this morning, mist lifting on the dry roads no covers on the transmission tunnel, windows down, fully decatted exhaust ......Coor What a Noise .....What a car I Just love it
Last edited:
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
Ended up having to cut more of the transmission tunnel cut out.
Another tip is to not use the rivets supplied with the Hurst Shifter, I used the plastic part but removed the steel rivet and replaced it with some self tapping screws.
Should you ever need to get at the shifter just remove the screws
Another tip is to not use the rivets supplied with the Hurst Shifter, I used the plastic part but removed the steel rivet and replaced it with some self tapping screws.
Should you ever need to get at the shifter just remove the screws
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
The car now goes into reverse a little better.
dtvtech
Viper Owner
I got one for my gen one they work so nice and it took maybe an hour to install. At the same time I killed that annoying skip shift too!
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Did an install on my Gen 2. I did it when I replaced the slave cylinder in the car which failed. I put up a thread with the differences. Measurements with the knob etc.
I tried and MGW First Strike i had as well. I even modified it (bore out a bit and cut the lower section) to sit lower in the shifter arm. It's still too high. So I went with a simple ball. Gives me the nice short feel. Check it out here...
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads...-the-GTS-Before-and-After-Measurements-Photos
My hurst was a bit "stiff" at first but works wonderfully now. I replaced my trans mount with a poly unit. BTW an energy suspension trans mount for a GM is an exact match. The clearance for shifter is small for me but it does not hit at all.
I tried and MGW First Strike i had as well. I even modified it (bore out a bit and cut the lower section) to sit lower in the shifter arm. It's still too high. So I went with a simple ball. Gives me the nice short feel. Check it out here...
http://forums.viperclub.org/threads...-the-GTS-Before-and-After-Measurements-Photos
My hurst was a bit "stiff" at first but works wonderfully now. I replaced my trans mount with a poly unit. BTW an energy suspension trans mount for a GM is an exact match. The clearance for shifter is small for me but it does not hit at all.
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