eucharistos
Enthusiast
hey buddy, thanks for the link
I have learned my lesson....another Power Steering Pulley Story!
- Thread starter Ratical2
- Start date
hey buddy, thanks for the link
Ratical2
Enthusiast
You are most welcome! This style puller is much better than a 2 or 3 jaw type because it engages the entire ring of the hub.
Fatboy 18
Enthusiast
With so many of these breaking, I wonder why Dodge did not do a Re call on this part?
CEJ
Enthusiast
Harbor Freight also carries a p/s pulley removal/install kit. I think I paid about $16 for it. I had to file a bit off of one collar (5 minutes) and it has been used 3 times so far. No problems whatsoever. Made in China, but for the number of times I'll use it, it works fine.
AZTVR
Enthusiast
Here is what it looks like when you change it as a preventative measure before it breaks. I changed it because of reading previous posts like in this thread/ (Non forced induction car.)
Do it !
Do it !
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V10SpeedLuvr
Enthusiast
I have wondered that about the Gen 1 head gaskets as well.
+1, my pulley also had some hairline cracks in it when it was removed as preventive maintenance. Waiting because you don't think yours will break is like going to a girl's house and hearing "I just have to do my hair, it'll only take 5 mins" and believing her. You're just fooling yourself
JUCD VPR
Enthusiast
Looks like I will be adding this to my "Winter Fix List"! Better safe than sorry! How much is this new pulley?
LifeIsGood
Enthusiast
Your PM storage is full. Send me a PM when you get it cleaned up or a PM with your email address.
JUCD VPR
Enthusiast
Ok I cleaned it all out so I should be good to go. just sent you a TEST PM to see if it's working again.
Thanks to the warnings here, I put the IPSCO bracket and pulley on this weekend. There were no signs of stress cracking on the 9,200 mile OEM pulley (or bracktet) before the R&R, but there sure were when I was done! That bugger would not come off with the circumferential puller, so I sawed the pulley off the hub and cut a relief slot in the steel hub. Bingo, the puller worked. Definately need the right puller as you don't want to be prying between the hub and the pump body (something about changing the position of the pump shaft in its bearings). Recommend removing the pump from the car even if you're not replacing the bracket. Found the torque specs elsewhere on this forum (30 ft-lb for the bracket bolts and 120 in-lb for the pump bolts).
Viper #53
Viper Owner
Nice thread. I plan to replace my Gen II pulley and bracket this month. It seems there are three options (DBB/PR, IPSCO and Roe.) I rather go with a stock looking replacement rather than high polish silver for the mount and pulley. Any of the three come in black?
Ratical2
Enthusiast
Roe is the only option if you want to keep it looking "stock". http://www.roeracing.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=389&idcategory=166
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V10SpeedLuvr
Enthusiast
If you mean the birdcage thing, the easy solution for that is to cotter pin it instead of the birdcage. But every 5 days means something else is wrong (alignment issue somewhere). Mine has broken twice in 6+ years and 50k miles.
hemihead
Viper Owner
Just take to pump off of the car, take it and the new pulley up to NAPA and have them pull the old one and press on the new one. $5 and done.
Great idea for someone who's pulley can be pulled off . . . I used the same NAPA puller at home and it didn't work without cutting a relief slot in the hub. The NAPA tech couldn't make the puller work any better than I did if I had taken it there. Also, I wouldn't trust any tech not to deliberately or accidentally push/pull the shaft on its bearings with a BAH or prying. Then you have alignment issues.
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