When I bought this car it already had moton suspension. The car would dead hook w/900rwhp from 2nd gear and up! Since then I've freshened the motor and the car sat for a good bit causing the nitrogen shocks to leak out a little. So after I got those pumped back up to the recommended 175psi the alignment was out of wack, so I had that done as well by a very reputable shop. All is well now, the car tracks good and straight, except now I spin all the way through 3rd gear (same bfg DR's, but the ones on the car are newer w/about 1,000miles on them). So I'm guessing the recommended 175psi in the shocks is for the road racing guys. However, at my power level, I'd assume just stay off the road course w/this car and utilize another car that's more specific for road racing. So my question is...What would be the ideal setting for drag racing? I'm wondering if maybe the rear shocks had less psi in them from the beginning, or maybe I need to adjust the knob on top of the resevoir? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!
I have the moton suspension...what's the best setting for drag racing?
- Thread starter oufan2929
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Shandon
Enthusiast
175 is what I use for road course. I would think 150 in the rears and lower the compression a little to get a bit more dig would help smooth out the launch.
In order to get the car to squat more you can lower pressure to 60 or 70. I would not recommend going below that. Remember pressure in the cannister acts as a helper to the springs. So more pressure results in more spring rate and a firmer ride and vice versa.
If you are not going to road course the car, the Moton suspension is being wasted. If you intend to use it for "on road" use and the drag strip, you might consider changing out the suspension to one more suitable for the purpose. However, give Mark Jorgensen a call at Woodhouse. He is an expert on the Moton.Eibach suspension and may be able to help you.
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According to Moton spec, minimum gas pressure is 87 psi. If you go below this, the oil in the shock will foam. Lex Carlson (Moton's head USA guy) recommends a minimum of 100 PSI cannister - nitrogen pressure.
Will need more info to help with your situation, like spring rates.
Also, agree with those above, if you aren't going to use the Motons, sell them and get a drag shock set up.
Drag shocks will allow the front to come up (very little rebound) and the rear to squat, i.e. very little compression and soft springs.
You can adjust the Motons to make the car launch and hook better but stiff rear springs will not be very helpful for drag racing your car.
Dan
Will need more info to help with your situation, like spring rates.
Also, agree with those above, if you aren't going to use the Motons, sell them and get a drag shock set up.
Drag shocks will allow the front to come up (very little rebound) and the rear to squat, i.e. very little compression and soft springs.
You can adjust the Motons to make the car launch and hook better but stiff rear springs will not be very helpful for drag racing your car.
Dan
Simms
Enthusiast
A little off topic, but how do the Motons compare to the Penskes for a street, track, and drag setup?
michaelnouri
Enthusiast
drag race!
lose the motons and put a ford 9inch in
did you watch the speed channel the other night, those turbo vipers didn't exactly lay down quarter mile times.
lose the motons and put a ford 9inch in
did you watch the speed channel the other night, those turbo vipers didn't exactly lay down quarter mile times.
ok...so, since some guys are determined that my motons are a waste...how do I keep my car from spinning SO badly when coming out of a turn at the road course
Seriously, of course I'm not going to put the car on a road course w/that kind of power. As I stated, I'll gladly put a purpose built car on a road course. The car came w/moton suspension hence why I'm trying to figure out the best way to utilize what I have
. However, I'm not opposed to putting on a drag setup on the car. But at one point, this car DEAD hooked from 40mph and up. So I'm trying to get back to that point. I'll do some adjusting and get back to you guys. Maybe I can help some fellow moton guys out for those occasional trips to the track...
Seriously, of course I'm not going to put the car on a road course w/that kind of power. As I stated, I'll gladly put a purpose built car on a road course. The car came w/moton suspension hence why I'm trying to figure out the best way to utilize what I have
. However, I'm not opposed to putting on a drag setup on the car. But at one point, this car DEAD hooked from 40mph and up. So I'm trying to get back to that point. I'll do some adjusting and get back to you guys. Maybe I can help some fellow moton guys out for those occasional trips to the track...
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Having an aftermarket suspension helps w/safety, ride, and road manners among others. The guys at UGR won't let a high hp car leave w/out a penske or moton setup. I guarantee there's hardly any ******** road raced TT Vipers. I understand your point, but to each their own. To me (and apparantly Doug and UGR) it's not a waste. When DLM built this car they put the BEST of everything on it. Nothin wrong w/that! After owning multiple vipers w/stock suspension, I could never go back to anything but a nice moton/kw/penske type suspension. I'm spoiled to it now, even if they are meant for the road course. When I get back into road racing, it'll be in an n/a '08 or '09 car, not a 900rwhp highway monster
Since the tuners you mention cannot control how a car is used after it leaves their respective premises, it is wise to install the safest suspension. However, for a purpose built car whose purpose is to race in the quarter mile on drag strips with an occasional non race outing on the street, a road course suspension is not the correct suspension for the purpose intended and is, by definition, a waste of money. It should be noted that some people who have their cars modded have little or no understanding of the mods but a pocket deep enough to have "everything" done even if "everything" is not needed for the intended purpose. It also should be noted that for a road course suspension to work the best, the car needs to be corner balanced.
Having an aftermarket suspension helps w/safety, ride, and road manners among others. The guys at UGR won't let a high hp car leave w/out a penske or moton setup. I guarantee there's hardly any ******** road raced TT Vipers. I understand your point, but to each their own. To me (and apparantly Doug and UGR) it's not a waste. When DLM built this car they put the BEST of everything on it. Nothin wrong w/that! After owning multiple vipers w/stock suspension, I could never go back to anything but a nice moton/kw/penske type suspension. I'm spoiled to it now, even if they are meant for the road course. When I get back into road racing, it'll be in an n/a '08 or '09 car, not a 900rwhp highway monster
Many of the 1/4 mile numbers put down by UR,including the 9.8X on street tires have been done with Penske's. Clearly aftermarket shocks can be used successfully in the 1/4 with the proper setup.
Agreed! 100%
I guess ol Bob is failing to get my point! Aftermarket suspensions have many purposes! Could I benefit from a drag package? Maybe...But the car has already "been there done that" in the drag racing world and done it VERY successfully w/the existing moton suspension. Much better than a stock suspension ever could have! Bob, youre completely losing sight of the point of this thread. You're trying to push an issue I couldn't care less about w/this car, and it's going in one ear and out the other cause you're telling me things I already know. However, you may learn something on this thread. I'll let you guys know when I get back on track w/this suspension. It will dead hook again soon. Just a matter of messing with it enough!I get your point. But, if you value your time ( assume that it is worth at least whatever houry rate you may earn at your employment), wouldn't it be less expensive to convert the Moton/Eibach suspension to something else as opposed to making a square peg try to fit into a round hole? Sure, if you play with the Moton/Eibach setup enough, you may improve your start a bit but do you think that you will ever reach a point where you will be able to equal the start obatined if you had a purpose built suspension? I do not see how you could make the car sit and squat with the setup you have but I certainly am willing to be educated about it if you manage to achieve that capability.
By the way, when you say it "dead hooked" from second and now it does not, do you mean that you were starting out in second or were you short shifting from first? If first was used, what happended in first? Also, maybe I missed it but what tires are you using?
One more question. When you freshened the motor, was the tune adjusted or left the same? Is it possible that the difference in traction is a function of the power increase caused by the freshening and no matter what you do now, traction will not be improved with this suspension unless you readjust the power levels available in first and second. I know that in the Heffner twin turbos, Heffner is careful to allow only so much HP in a given gear so that it is possible to maintain traction.
By the way, when you say it "dead hooked" from second and now it does not, do you mean that you were starting out in second or were you short shifting from first? If first was used, what happended in first? Also, maybe I missed it but what tires are you using?
One more question. When you freshened the motor, was the tune adjusted or left the same? Is it possible that the difference in traction is a function of the power increase caused by the freshening and no matter what you do now, traction will not be improved with this suspension unless you readjust the power levels available in first and second. I know that in the Heffner twin turbos, Heffner is careful to allow only so much HP in a given gear so that it is possible to maintain traction.
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starting from the 2nd paragraph...What i mean by dead hooking in 2nd gear is mainly for the street. 1st gear has always been useless. At the track I'd short shift 1st just to get into 2nd where I could find traction. I'd love to hook in first but I think I'd need a better tire. I run on bfg 18" dr's.
The tune was just richened up a bit above 5,500rpm. It used to lean out a little too much for my liking. Other than that all is the same including the power. I started losing traction when I filled the nitrogen shocks to 175psi in the back...You can't adjust the power levels in any gear in my car unfortunately. It's a supercharged car. So might right foot is the only modulator...I mainly want the traction for my own enjoyment on the street. When I was 16 i love spinning the tires. Now I just like the rush of letting it rip and getting good traction. Maybe i just need to go to Gen II brakes on the rear and put a 16" wheel on the back w/a big nasty DR! that could be some fun!
Just Enough
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For an optimum drag launch you want the front end to raise and the rear to squat. This transfers the weight to the rear tires. I would back off, full soft, all the rebound on the front shocks (the pin wheel on the upper shaft of the shock). I would back off all the compression, full soft, on the rear shocks (canister dial). On the front I would try almost if not full hard compression 6 or 7 out of 7. Rebound on the rear I would start at 4 or 5 almost full hard to reduce wheel hop. If you can't readily adjust the canister pressures between the street and track I would just leave them alone. If you can I would do as the others suggested, 100psi in the rear and probably 200 to 250 in the front. All these settings would be a starting point and you will probably need to adjust front there. Take a note pad and jot down your settings and results, it is very easy to forget where they are set at.
My apology. I incorrectly assumed, because of the power level, that your car had a twin turbo. But, with that said, I think that an AEM controller, assuming you do not already have one, with a good tune, may allow you to apply the power in different amounts in different gears as Heffner does with his twin turbos. Perhaps Dan Cragin can jump in and comment on this issue. On the other hand, I like your idea regarding the "nasty DR" assuming the half shafts and the diff will take the stress.
Simms
Enthusiast
I could be wrong, but I don't think boost-by-gear will work with a SC.
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