I got a 96 RT/10. It has been running ok if i drive it easy but at higher rpms or full throttle it acts like someone cuts off the switch and rpm guage drops to zero. Sometimes it would just cut in and out if you hold it at a higher rpm around 3,500 to 4,000. At first it was only doing it in 3rd gear pulls but now does it in every gear. I have replaced the battery before the summer, have replaced throttle position sensor last winter, and crank sensor recently. I was attempting to replace the camshaft sensor today and i had it set too deep and it broke the sensor. Has anyone had this happen before? Do i have to remove the oil pan or timing cover to get out the plastic that broke off the sensor? I was hoping the sensor would fix my problem but i think i have more problems now.
I need help getting a 96 RT/10 running
- Thread starter JBRred96
- Start date
99 R/T 10
Enthusiast
If I remember properly, there was a few others that had this issue. Turned out to be the cam sensor. You may have to drop the pan to retrive the broke piece, but call Chuck Tator (914-763-3136). He fix you up. 
G
grcforce327
Guest
On a genI motor, you have to remove the oil pan and unbolt the pickup tube before you can remove the timing chain cover.A service manual will show you how to properly install a cam sensor.
RedEnuf93
Enthusiast
Before you do all that complicated stuff....
I had the exact same problem and my battery was 3 only months old.
Remove battery and get it tested, it will propably be OK, like mine was.
Remove alternator and get it rebuilt. Pepboys, Advance Auto etc. do not have the equipment to test it (plug that would fit), or they dont have a chart to see what fits.
Mine turned out to be a bad alternator, afterall it was 13 years old.... I got it rebuilt at local alternatorshop for $106.00.
My alternator DID charge, but not enough to keep the car running for days. After a good charge my car was good for 3-5 hours of driving. Volt meter shoved 14V. So dont trust the meter either... My RMP meter (as well as speedo!) were acting funny, jumping up and down, just like the needle would be "sticky".
Another EASY way to test this is to charge your battery well overnight. If the car runs good in the morning, you know what to do.
I had the exact same problem and my battery was 3 only months old.
Remove battery and get it tested, it will propably be OK, like mine was.
Remove alternator and get it rebuilt. Pepboys, Advance Auto etc. do not have the equipment to test it (plug that would fit), or they dont have a chart to see what fits.
Mine turned out to be a bad alternator, afterall it was 13 years old.... I got it rebuilt at local alternatorshop for $106.00.
My alternator DID charge, but not enough to keep the car running for days. After a good charge my car was good for 3-5 hours of driving. Volt meter shoved 14V. So dont trust the meter either... My RMP meter (as well as speedo!) were acting funny, jumping up and down, just like the needle would be "sticky".
Another EASY way to test this is to charge your battery well overnight. If the car runs good in the morning, you know what to do.
ruckdr
Enthusiast
JBRed96,
Here are the results of my problem, and yours sounds similar if not the same:
OK, fixed; it was a Shorting MAP sensor; not faulty except when it was shorting, and affecting the 8 or 9 volt signal to the computer. The MAP sensor is down the chain, so to speak, and the computer would set codes for the up chain sensors on the same power - Cam, Crank,... but not the MAP because it was really not malfunctioning, except when shorting, caused by vibration, acceleration, engine movement,.... Our mechanic said he kinda had some ideas, and with the car idling (running fine), he jiggled the MAP sensor and the engine died. Repeated the process a number of times and replaced the MAP sensor and all is OK. The find was somewhat by accident,after replacing Cam and Crank sensors, and since he is such a GREAT guy, he didn't charge me 3 arms and 5 legs for the diagnostic. MAP sensor was a few $$$'s, however.
GO HERE TO READ THE COMPLETE POST:
http://www4.forum.viperclub.org/showflat...true#Post729817
Here are the results of my problem, and yours sounds similar if not the same:
OK, fixed; it was a Shorting MAP sensor; not faulty except when it was shorting, and affecting the 8 or 9 volt signal to the computer. The MAP sensor is down the chain, so to speak, and the computer would set codes for the up chain sensors on the same power - Cam, Crank,... but not the MAP because it was really not malfunctioning, except when shorting, caused by vibration, acceleration, engine movement,.... Our mechanic said he kinda had some ideas, and with the car idling (running fine), he jiggled the MAP sensor and the engine died. Repeated the process a number of times and replaced the MAP sensor and all is OK. The find was somewhat by accident,after replacing Cam and Crank sensors, and since he is such a GREAT guy, he didn't charge me 3 arms and 5 legs for the diagnostic. MAP sensor was a few $$$'s, however.
GO HERE TO READ THE COMPLETE POST:
http://www4.forum.viperclub.org/showflat...true#Post729817
Thanks for all your help. Oh, i forgot to mention i also changed the plugs and wires about a month or two ago but it didn't seem make it run any better. I had replaced the map sensor a few years ago when my car wouldn't idle good sometimes or after i ran it for a little while and cut it off, when i went to restart it, it wouldn't want to idle. I replaced the Map sensor and it seemed to fix that problem. It could be the map sensor again, but i've only put a few thousand miles on it since then, but that was probably a year or 2 ago when i replaced it. One mechanic told me there is a screen on the oil pump pickup so if the cam sensor i installed broke off a piece of plastic, I should still be ok without having to remove the pan to clean it out. I've tried most the other sensors and i'm going to order another cam sensor and try it. Hopefully it will fix my problem, if not, i might try another map sensor.
