IOD Parasitic Draw

[Mikyver13]

I’m hoping someone can assist. I have a 2004 SRT10 and apparently a parasitic draw. Here’s a brief overview…

Old battery would die if I didn’t drive the car at least weekly. Replaced it, still had challenges, so hooked up battery tender. Even with tender, got to the point I had to jump every time and replace it in just six months. Clearly I have a parasitic draw. Multimeter says draw is .117. I pulled IOD fuse and it was back down to .002. I found post where someone mentioned hood switch, so I disconnected. Still .117. I tried disconnecting trunk switch and same thing.

What else should I try? What else is tied to IOD fuse? I feel like this should be an easy fix where I don’t need to take it to a shop? And what’s the part number for the hood switch? I figure I’ll replace, but couldn’t find 2004 online.

Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks!!

 

[daveg]

Do you have a service manual for the car that includes wiring schematic? This way you can see what's on that circuit.

 

[Steve-Indy]

Mikyver13, as Dave said, service manuals for your year are the place to start...and, they are generally available on ebay. Get the printed version as they are much easier to use.

Two rules I make myself adhere to when doing the IOD test on a Viper: lower the windows before you start and begin pulling system fuses one at a time...starting with any suspect areas such as stereo mods, wired in radar detectors, etc.

It can be frustrating to pursue...but necessary and worthwhile.

By the way, have you ever used wh a t is called battery saver mode...also called hibernation mode or sleep mode?

If you have not, don't try it until you demonstrate that your emergency keyhole does indeed unlock the driver's door.

Goodluck.