IPSCO short throw shifter issue

[StumpDDS]

Hey everyone. Picked up my 2000 GTS a few weeks ago and I love it. However the shifter is like a semi so I thought about installing the IPSCO short throw with the 2” lever shortener. Console came off fine and got the stock shifter assembly out no problem and put in the new IPSCO one. I screw on the stick to row it through the gears to test everything and guess what? Shifting into reverse is nigh impossible since the assembly hits the ashtray. I had seen Boosted Motorsports’ video of him installing it and if that happens then the whole transmission needs to be moved more to the driver’s side. Here’s my dilemma.

Do I 1) reinstall the stock assembly with the 2” shortener to decrease the height of the stick and have a shop move the transmission over when it’s in for the exhaust and updated motor and transmission mounts? Or 2) move the transmission over myself and install new transmission mounts while I’m at it?

From watching his video he also installed new transmission mounts and it honestly didn’t seem that difficult. It’s the moving it a couple cm over to the driver’s side that I’m concerned with. Has anyone here done that? What kind of labor is involved? Thanks!

Sorry for the wall of text :/

 

[GTS Dean]

I had a lot of trouble with mine at first install. I have been running a urethane bushing for about 25 years and it made the fit even tighter. I ended up buying the IPSCO crossmember which is about 3/16" shorter than OE.

 

[StumpDDS]

I had a lot of trouble with mine at first install. I have been running a urethane bushing for about 25 years and it made the fit even tighter. I ended up buying the IPSCO crossmember which is about 3/16" shorter than OE.

So essentially the IPSCO crossmember should be installed in conjunction with the short throw for a proper fit? Was it terribly difficult to install?

 

[GTS Dean]

Hell of a lot easier than the shifter.

 

[StumpDDS]

Hell of a lot easier than the shifter.

I assume just four jack stands, low profile jack, board, a mallet and some sockets. All of which I have.

 

[GTS Dean]

I think mostly 15 and 13 mm

 

[white out]

Common issue as engine and trans mounts can shift the driveline. The IPSCO crossmember is the easiest way to remedy it.

Otherwise, remove the transmission crossmember and oval out the mounting hole, then shift the trans mount to the left and tighten. This is a good time to swap to a polyurethane trans mount.

 

[GTS Dean]

My experience is that just a lateral shift was not enough. The fulcrum of the IPSCO shifter is higher and the offset lever is thicker than OE, hitting the ashtray blockout. Moving laterally helps slightly, but dropping the tail shaft housing took care of everything.

 

[StumpDDS]

Thanks for the replies. I have an IPSCO mount and crossmember on the way. I’ll post how everything goes once installed this weekend.

 

[jlan90]

Ran into issues during my install as well. I originally planned to use an energy suspension poly trans mount with my IPSCO shifter, however, the mount was too tall to work. I opted for the Woodhouse mount and that solved my issues. The Woodhouse mount is a tad shorter in height than OEM/ES. I also went back and installed the IPSCO crossmember (it's indeed "thinner" than OEM crossmember) for good measure. I believe you can get away with using the taller ES poly mount with the IPSCO crossmember along with the IPSCO shifter as well. You have to mix and match for the ideal fit.

So basically, IPSCO shifter, IPSCO crossmember and ES poly mount or IPSCO shifter, OEM crossmember and Woodhouse poly mount. Those are the combos that worked without clearance issues for me. Hope that helps.

 

[99RT10GTS]

Always do the engine mounts when doing the shifter. I would bet half the cars on the road today have shot engine mounts. The engine will twist and be out of alignment so you run into the problems the OP did when installing a shifter.

Jlan90, post up the ES Poly link for future Viper owners

 

[white out]

Note for anyone installing ES, do not use the spacers included with the mount. They would definitely cause issues with clearance.

Here is the ES mount:

Viper Polyurethane Transmission Mount

Replace the worn and most likely failed original rubber transmission mount in your Viper. The heat, driveline weight and driveline movement of the Viper put a large amount of stress on the rubber transmission mount and they often tear in half. The unique internal design of the Polyurethane mount...

reidperformance.com

 

[jlan90]

Note, the poly trans mount sold directly from IPSCO's site is actually an ES poly mount. I thought they had their own proprietary mount, but it is indeed an ES unit.

 

[StumpDDS]

Note for anyone installing ES, do not use the spacers included with the mount. They would definitely cause issues with clearance.

Here is the ES mount:

Viper Polyurethane Transmission Mount

Replace the worn and most likely failed original rubber transmission mount in your Viper. The heat, driveline weight and driveline movement of the Viper put a large amount of stress on the rubber transmission mount and they often tear in half. The unique internal design of the Polyurethane mount...

reidperformance.com

That’s the exact mount I got along with the cross member. From Reid too. Per your recommendation I won’t use the spacer.

 

[StumpDDS]

Hey everyone that's been following. Here's an update on the install:

Once the car was jacked up I removed the transmission cover using a 15mm socket. Transmission was supported by a jack with a 4x4 piece of wood. I then loosened the 15mm bolts for the transmission mount, crossmember and bolt that holds the mount to the cross member. Jacked the transmission up a tiny bit then removed the cross member and mount. I installed the new ES mount to hand tight using the stock mounting bolts. IPSCO cross member was then installed using the stock bolts to hand tight. Then I lowered the transmission slightly to connect the ES mount to the IPSCO cross member. This is when I realized the problem with these two.

The ES mount comes with two bolts for either a one bolt setup or two bolt setup to connect to the crossmember. The bolts supplied with the ES kit are only 3/4" long. With the added thickness of the IPSCO cross member the bolt doesn't even reach the mount. I took the bolt to Menards to determine thread count and diameter, and purchased a grade 8 (suitable for engines) 1 1/2" long flange bolt. That bolt was the perfect length and once that was in I torqued everything to spec per the 2000 service manual and reinstalled the transmission cover and torque all those bolts to spec. It was a really simple job compared to the shifter. Took it for a drive after and it shifts like a dream. Definitely more of a bolt action feel than stock, which I love.

Once completed I rowed through the gears again and theres no clearance issues with going into reverse. And here I thought jacking up a transmission and replacing the mount is something saved for a licensed mechanic. It's honestly no more difficult than changing oil. Oh and if anyone needs specs for the install here they are:

Bolt purchased to connect mount to cross member: Grade 8 flange bolt 7/16-14 x 1-1/2
Torque spec for transmission mount: 30 ft. lb
Torque spec for transmission cross member: 60 ft. lb
Torque spec for transmission top cover: 15 ft. lb
Torque spec for the four bolts on the shifter assembly: 15 ft. lb

Next up will be new power steering pulley and bracket, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and engine mounts (I'll probably save those for when the Belanger headers and Corsa cat-back is installed).

 

[skycranekid]

thanks for making this write up

 

[GTS Dean]

Hey everyone that's been following. Here's an update on the install: ....The ES mount comes with two bolts for either a one bolt setup or two bolt setup to connect to the crossmember. The bolts supplied with the ES kit are only 3/4" long. With the added thickness of the IPSCO cross member the bolt doesn't even reach the mount. I took the bolt to Menards to determine thread count and diameter, and purchased a grade 8 (suitable for engines) 1 1/2" long flange bolt. That bolt was the perfect length and once that was in I torqued everything to spec

Stump DDS failed with the ability to look at a problem from both sides: if he had flipped the IPSCO crossmember over, it would lower the tail housing for just a bit for more shifter clearance, AND it allows you to use the 3/4" long bolt in a countersunk orientation to secure the bushing.