Ok, so I just had a some repair work done to my RT/10 including new pads and work done to the rotor (forgot what they said specifically; regrinded them or something like that, I'm not sure; when it comes to this tech stuff, I'm a noob). I immediately noticed that when braking now, the car does not slow down like it used to... it almost seems like the brakes are not gripping as tight as they did before I had new pads put on and the rotor stuff. I'm wondering if the tech who did the work made a mistake or does it simply take some time for it to wear in?? In the first three days I heard a humming noise when I would brake, but that's gone now, so I'm wondering if the brakes will tighten up with a bit more time. Anyone who knows please help me out... I'm not really able to enjoy my Viper at the moment because I have to be a bit more careful due to the goofy behavior of the brakes.
Is there something wrong with my brakes??
- Thread starter Hyno
- Start date
jdeft1
Enthusiast
Probably a different pad compound and yes, they need to go a bit to set-in. If the pedal is mushy bring it back asap. Have them re-bleed the air out.
JohnnyViper
Enthusiast
some pads need over 500 miles to bed in, i would bring it back no matter what and have them re-bleed the brakes to eliminate that possibility and have piece of mind
NOT GOOD............ Good On You for noticing and asking, can be a dangerous oversight. You failed to say the year of your RT/10. ABS or NON? Some rear, non, may be at play. THE YEAR MATTERS.
The 'grinding' of the rotors is also called 'resurfacing' or 'cutting' and lets you stretch old, grooved rotors into another afterlife. But not literally. Not usually recommended on a 'race car for the street' but if budget rules, and rotor thickness permits, RESURFACE.
A resurfaced rotor is thinner, and clean-clean-smoothe. New, cheap pads wont bite well onto the 'new' metal, and even 'track-pads' might require some 'bedding.' So ASK YOUR PAD VENDOR IF THEY ARE PRE-BEDDED or REQUIRE BEDDING...... I dont like the UNSAFE feeling you have.....and bedding can scare you!
1) WATCH YOUR MIRRORS. PICK A DESERTED ROAD. WATCH YOUR MIRRORS x 6.
2) If ANY of these next bedding steps does not achieve safe, straight braking, ABORT.
-In sequence, 3 HARD threshold stops from 30-35 mph to near zero... Drive 1-2 minutes.
--Followed by 3 HARD threholdstops from 50 mph to near zero.....drive 1-2 minutes.
---Followed by 2-3 HARD stops from about 70 mph. Depending on pad material, they might stink or even smoke. Really. Now, Downshift to slow, try NOT to use your brakes as you go home or somewhere for a couple hours (at least) to let the brakes cool to local ambient temp.NOW, they are bedded.
If they dont stop better now, or you had to abort, the tech left air in the lines; or took too much off the rotor. (which might now be warped!) Or sold you cheap-o chinese too-thin sawdust pads from flea-bay. They just LOOK LIKE pads.
good Luck, be Safe....
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2BADD-4U
Enthusiast
moparracing
Enthusiast
i hated the stock braking setup on my '97 gts, so i did this:
http://forums.viperclub.org/2944622-post59.html
http://forums.viperclub.org/2944622-post59.html
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
Where in Tampa did you take it?
Wow man. Thanks for the information. Big help for me so I greatly appreciate it!! I'll do exactly what you said here. RT/10 is a 2000 btw so no ABS.
i hated the stock braking setup on my '97 gts, so i did this:
http://forums.viperclub.org/2944622-post59.html
I've been considering going to an aftermarket setup. StopTech maybe... but I'd really like to avoid having to do that currently given what I've already paid. Hopefully hope isn't lost and I won't have to bite the dust on this.
Oh man. I'm very afraid that this could very well be the problem. I took it down the road to a Good Year. I've always taken it to them for oil changes and stuff like that, I got to know the owner a bit, and I've never had a problem. They actually did a clutch and slave cylinder replacement for me a while back and everything came out perfectly fine. I just wasn't thinking and in hindsight, should have taken it to a stealership at the minimum where they have trained Viper techs. I did end up taking it in to a Dodge to have an inspection performed on it and they said everything look great, but as I've said, it doesn't feel great.
The Dodge is the one off Gulf to Bay (so technically Clearwater) and the Good Year is off Tampa Rd just a bit past Forest Lake Dr. I'll have to give them a call tomorrow to get the specifics on the pads as JonB suggested so I can figure out what to do from here. The only reason why I went with getting the rotors grinded rather than replaced is I also had to get a new set of tires, new AC compressor, new engine mount, and the driver's side door had a busted wire so it wouldn't open from the outside (had to go through the passenger side or keep the window open so I could access the emergency opener (cable; not electric). I'm also having the car go into the body shop soon to fix a gouge on the rocker panel. I simply was trying to save a bit of cash giving all that had to be dished out for the repairs... looks like I may have learned the hard way
Phun70
VCA Venom Member
I wouldn't go to Goodyear for air in my tires, most of them are idiots. I also agree with Jon-b! Great info. I must also agree that re-surfacing the rotors probably wasn't a good idea given the fact that it's a street legal race car. I'm sure that a new set of rotors would have been better, they seat pads quicker too. The biggest problem with machining rotors is that they will be thinner after the operation ie: they won't be able to dissipate heat as well, and they won't tolerate the additional heat as well either and they may warp! You would be better off going through one of the vendors on here like Jon-b and just buying the recommended parts from him, and finding a qualified technician to do the work for you. I would recommend an ASE Master or above for any work like this. It would be different if it was the family truckster, but of course it aint! Hope this helps. Mark
Probably pads. Ask the guy what pads were put on and try to find out which ones you had prior, if possible. Share the info on this board and you'll get better response to your situation. If the pads are, as Jonb stated, some ish, try and have them replaced with pads ordered from Jonb and work to get your money back for the pads and labor or have them reinstall the new pads if you have no options.
I had the same issue, but worse, with another car of mine, but with NTB. I only take me viper to my trusted tech. Save yourself the time and money and maybe a damaged front end by spending more and taking to viper tech.
I had the same issue, but worse, with another car of mine, but with NTB. I only take me viper to my trusted tech. Save yourself the time and money and maybe a damaged front end by spending more and taking to viper tech.
eucharistos
Enthusiast
do the JonB bedding 1st
EllowViper
Enthusiast
I love the smell of hot brakes in the morning...
Replace the FLUID too...............
I do hope you used one of the Forum Sponsor-Vendors? THANKS for considering Sponsors
will do
I did not use a forum sponsored vendor. I do apologize if this offends any members here. I called a friend who has a built Lexus IS and he put me in touch with a guy a Titan Motorsports who helped me out and got me a good price on factory replacement rotors. The pads were ordered from my local Dodge stealership. I'm going to be doing headers and exhaust a little bit down the road so I'll plan to go through a forum sponsor once I make that move. With everything that went wrong, I just wanted to get this thing fixed so I could start having fun with the car again. The price was good so I just went ahead with it.
Anyways, I'd like to thank everyone again who helped me with this issue. I truly am very appreciative.
