Just a word of caution on the Paxton Pin kits....I got lucky. pics

[Qualitywires.com]

Well, I got my damper off. I originally had the Paxton Crank Pin kit on my damper.

Since I took off the paxton kit and made my own set up, I decided to do
the ATI damper upgrade. Boy was I lucky!! I was near to spinning my crank!

The paxton pins had appearently broke or sheared off and what saved the hub from
spinning was the fact that I put the pins at a slight angle which cause the
pins to come out of the side of the crank snub which held the crank damper in place!
The casting on the stock damper for higher HP application is not
good! Very cheap and brittle.

If you are doing SC set up, I would recommnend having Doug Levin Key your
system or going the Sean Roe set up on the crank pin tool he has. Way stronger
and better design. It's way more superior than the paxton unit is and for $50 bucks
or whatever the cost is, it's well worth it. Just and FYI.

I got lucky, my damper didn't spin in me...


Cheap Casting Material!

Pins sheared off!

See the dimple in the crank hub?...that pin that protruded the snout...saved me...PHEW!!

 

[2002_Viper_GTS_ACR]

Sometimes I think you talk to hear your self talk. Obviously, based on this thread: http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB14&Number=547694&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

It wasn’t even close to spinning, because if it was, it would have been a BREEZE to get off. You cracked the hub, because you installed at least one of the pins at an angle (you goofed up), and there-by made it so you had to "sheer" the pin in order to get the balancer off.

NOW, don’t get me wrong, the Paxton kit does ****, and if their guide plate was worth a [******], you would not have put that one in at an angle !! So I still blame Paxton, but lets get the reason right.

I know you want to hate on me.. but if you had called, I would have told you the same thing on the phone... you know I am an equal opportunity hater.


Jon, well known AB hater, secret AB friend.

 

[Vic]

IF the damper was to spin on the crank, having a dowel pin protruding into the damper would tend to make it open up and crack, like it did.

Because when the damper is not rotating on the crank, there was the little dimple area that the pin could be in, protruding into the casting. But if and when the pins sheared, and the damper would possibly rotate on the crank snout, then that protruding dowel pin would have "no where to go", and as it rotates, it would spread the casting apart, cracking it. You can see that the crack developed right at the dimple in the casting made by the askew dowel pin. As the pin was driven in, the end of the pin was exerting a spreading force on the cast hub. That is probably what weakened it.

An askew dowel would also not want to pull straight out, which is what required all the force to pull the damper off.

Adam, you are braver than me, because I have never attempted such intense, heavy duty repairs like you have. My hat's off to you for having the gumption to do what you have done. Your experiences may benefit me also, if I try to put a Paxton on. Thanks for the parts PDF link, and also the dowel pin kit info. Keep sharing what you do, you are elevating the Viper community.

 

[2002_Viper_GTS_ACR]

It cracked, because he was using a gear puller/balancer puller to take it off, while the pin was partially coming out the side of the crank snout. Notice in the photos, in his OTHER post: http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB14&Number=547694&page=3&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1 no crack until AFTER he got it off. He created the crack because he had to exert a lot of pressure/force on the balancer casting to get it off the crank. Sorry Vic, you arent right on this one.

I also have the advantage of knowing AB (and what an idiot he is), and also had the POS paxton kit.

PS. Another way to know it was a "fresh crack" done at the time of extraction, is that its fairly well known, that when a part gets a crack, but doesnt break, the two faces on either side of the crack start to "smooth" each other out as they vibrate against each other causing a sort of "sanding" under continued use and I see none of that on the crack in balancer photo, only a freshly cracked pourus casting.

Jon

 

[Qualitywires.com]

The pins did shear off, but the housing on the damper cracked due to the Paxton pins going in at a slight angle and the pulling pressure it took to take off the damper going against the pins caused the damper to crack...which isn't that much considering the weak casting. But since the paxton pins went in at an angle, it saved me from spinning my crank. So in this case, good thing the paxton pins didn't go in straight as intended...otherwise my crank would have been done.

I would have DLM Key your crank or buy the roe pin kit..along with an ATI damper which is alot stronger than the stock unit. This is a must with any supercharged application.

 

[mntngts99]

Did you need to pull the damper to use the Paxton pin kit? If the Damper didn't spin then how did the pins shear? HELP ME!! ------ I was lost at Hello.

 

[Go Fast For Life]

Show us pics of the new ATI setup!

 

[Qualitywires.com]

Show us pics of the new ATI setup!

 

[Qualitywires.com]

 

[Joel]

Nice 10 rib pulley Adam, did you have it custom made ? How close to the rack does it run ? I find my motor moves forward a bit on the mountings in use. Are you still using the standard Paxton blower bracket attached to the head at the 3 PAS pump mountings and have you noticed any flex at the supercharger.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

Nice 10 rib pulley Adam, did you have it custom made ? How close to the rack does it run ? I find my motor moves forward a bit on the mountings in use. Are you still using the standard Paxton blower bracket attached to the head at the 3 PAS pump mountings and have you noticed any flex at the supercharger.

I have no flex at all. I am using nothing from the paxton kit besides the blower itself. Everything else is custom made by myself. The paxton kit is only good for the low HP application...get higher HP and it's weak all over..

 

[Vic]

Jon, either way, spinning on the snout, or pulling force from removal, any movement in either axis would make the hub crack, since the protruding tip of the pin has no where to go. I can't "hang my hat" on either one, not having first hand knowledge. Adam says the pins sheared first, thats all I know.

Adam, your fabricated blower mount looks great, like factory made, only better.

 

[GR8_ASP]

Fracture analysis would indicate if the pins broke during removal (pure tension) or during use (pure shear).

Difficult they would be broken at the nose and not broken nearly suimultaneously at the back where they protruded in to the hub. Note the hub material, cast iron, is not made to be placed in high tension, which is what would occur if removal tried to expand over the protruding pins.

Cast iron is not very ductile and has about half the strength of an average steel that would be used. Note also the press fit would need to be adjusted accordingly due to different modulus to keep the press fit portion for anti-rotation.

 

[Joel]

Thats very impressive bracketry. Nice setup.

 

[Cop Magnet]

What's that, the stereotypical Asian mechanic at work? Bare feet with a pair of flip-flops cast aside?

 

[2002_Viper_GTS_ACR]

Fracture analysis would indicate if the pins broke during removal (pure tension) or during use (pure shear).

Difficult they would be broken at the nose and not broken nearly suimultaneously at the back where they protruded in to the hub. Note the hub material, cast iron, is not made to be placed in high tension, which is what would occur if removal tried to expand over the protruding pins.

Cast iron is not very ductile and has about half the strength of an average steel that would be used. Note also the press fit would need to be adjusted accordingly due to different modulus to keep the press fit portion for anti-rotation.

Yeah, I aint buying the other guys excuse either ;-)