Just gets hotter

[varanus]

My 97 gts With only hi flows and corsa used to run pretty even temps with the needle pointing straight up at the middle mark of the 3 marks right below the 190 degree on the temp gauge. I then added 1 3/4 inch headers. Also coolant was changed for the 30K service. The temps started hovering on the right mark below the 190 degee writing to the next mark before the red mark. A few days later I had replaced the radiator with a fluidyne and the upgraded fan as well as the Roe fan kit (keeps fan on when shutting off car to help prevent heat soak.)
same thing, happens. Normal temps are mostly the 3rd mark below the 190 degree mark and the next mark before the red zone mark.
My questions are
1. Is the car running hot? if so what could be the cause? Air pocket (doubtfull as a viper tech did the work-not myself)? Is it possible to run hotter if coolant is not mixed 50/50? Could any of the new componants be the cause?
2. Does everyone else have the temp needle moving back and forth in this great of a range? Before the needle was pretty much parked straight up unless in traffic where it might move up a notch.
Thanks for any info

 

[joe117]

Burp it again to make sure.

 

[red98GTS]

Sounds like air in the system. Sometimes it takes a bit of doing to get all the air out. With all your cooling mods, you should be well into the normal operating range or below, and I myself wouldn't be too worried after another burp or two. No need to take it back to the Viper tech just to burp it again...easy to do yourself and check it for air. I've heard of temps running all over that gauge depending on the car, so I stopped worrying about it a long time ago.
PS>>also check bottle level inside front fascia for proper amount of coolant. You don't want an empty bottle sucking air back into the system! pete the ex glass guy and hot rodder

 

[SneakyPete]

This is really discouraging

Sounds like you have covered almost everything, did you get a fluidyne 3 core aluminum radiator???

I have been asking the same questions to myself. I have a 97 GTS 6000 miles, Run at 190, 3rd tick at normal, low RPM driving no matter what the temp is outside. Start driving it hard it runs up to the 225 mark, start driving normal, low RPM, temp drops back down to 190's.

I have gotten new coolant, fan module, Roe fan kit, Roe radiator hoses with bleeders. Still does this. I have no air in my system because the system was burped and I use the bleeders often.

I ordered a fluidyne radiator-3 core aluminum, hoping this would resolve the temp gauge movement, waiting for it to arrive. If the radiator does not solve it, then it must normal to do this or an internal problem, possible seaping head gasket at higher RPM's, dumping hydro-carbon into the coolant.

Do a dye and block pressure test to test for hydro-carbons in coolant and leaking head gaskets. If you have a problem, the dye test should come back negative at low RPM's, but hold throttle at 4500 RPM's and this should be enough cylinder pressure to push the hydro-carbons through the gasket if there is a leak.

This was the exact problem I had with my 2001 GTS that I no longer have, that ended getting blown up.

 

[Mark Young]

Its air. Just because a tech does it, doesn't mean he can't leave an air pocket. Your baby will run cool as a cucumber with the fluidyne. I've got air in mine right now too and it can be a real PITA to get it all out. The only way to know for sure is to burp it, then drive it and see if you got it all.

 

[ryan 94RT]

MY 94 IS RUNNING JUST LIKE THE REST OF YOU GUYS BUT MINE ONLY
HAPPENS ON THE TRACK. THINGS DONE TO TRY TO COOL IT DOWN.
1 FLUIDINE ROE RACING
2 99 FAN AND UP GRADE
3 WATER WETTER

GUESS WHAT IT DIDNT WORK
JUST ORDERED
1 NEW RADIATOR CAP
2 ELECTIC FAN KIT ROE RACING
3 BLEEDER HOSES ROE RACING
4 GOING BACK TO A STOCK AIR BOX AND K AND N FILTERS
SEE YA TNT CONE AIR INDUCTION.

I HOPE THIS WORKS BECAUSE THE HEAT IS KILLING MY TRACK TIMES

 

[varanus]

Thanks everyone.

SLITHRN I did get the 3 core fluidyne from Sean Roe. BTW it doesnt just slip in! Had to cut up parts of the fan assembly and air box to clear parts.

I guess I'll be- a -BURPIN

I think it's gotta be an air pocket too. Stock ran cool and this new setup should be better.

 

[Snakester]

Varanus,

I'll add one more vote to thoroughly burp it.

I added a Fluidine radiator and the temps kept climbing, and I checked the overflow bottle and burped, squeezing the lines, and it got better, but was still hot, and then I REALLY squeezed the hoses to burp it out, and then it was great, and has been remarkably cool ever since, even in stop and go traffic, idling, etc.

-Dean.

 

[varanus]

Dean-When do you squeeze the hoses, after it's cooled down? Do you squeeze in a certain direction and which hoses got squeezed?
BTW did you know I got the nitrous kit on?

 

[garolittle]

Keith Vergas has a great "bleeder system" that removes all trapped air. Do a quick search on this board and you will find many posts regarding his product. I used it on my '94 RT/10 and it worked great.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Use both hands on the top hose and squeeze it with sharp quick squeezes. The motor has to be hot so that the thermostat is open. Wear gloves if you need to, the hose will be hot.

Also make sure the heater is open.

 

[Bill/APEX Motorsports]

You get my vote for burping again. Vipers can be very frustrating to burp properly. Sometimes it can take three or four attempts to get all the air out. Air pockets seem to hide everywhere in the system. Hoses with air bleeders really help out, as does squeezing the hoses while the car's idling. Also, make sure your overflow bottle in the RF fender has the correct water level in it.
One other note--we've found that the hash mark in between the three middle marks and the 250 deg. mark isn't necessarily halfway between 190 and 250. For instance, on CNTW84U's '02 Lethal 650, that mark was only 206 deg., which isn't cause for concern.

 

[HP]

Has anyone, but me, had trouble with the fan circuit overheating
when the fan motor is in on high speed(with A/C on). I even
separated that circuit, so now it independently connects to
the auxiliary jumper post(10gauge wire with 30amp fuse).
Since that circuit also runs the A/C clutch, could it be that
the amp load, with an updated fan motor is too much for that
circuit? Another thought is that with 12gauge wire, the circuit
is too long, and the circuit could be shortened, with a direct
shot from + jumper post to fan motor(relays relocated to other
side of motor. I have had a couple of 30 amp fuses melt, and
I don't feel going up to 40 amp fuses is the safe thing to do.
I could put up with this, because I now watch my temp gauge and
I check my fuse at the first sign of my A/C blowing hot, but
I would rather solve this dilemma. This circuit is normally protected with a fusible link, and some of you might have this
problem and not know it without checking the temp of the wire
on that circuit, or looking for signs of heat fatigue in the wiring. My car is a 96 RT, and I think later cars have a
revised relay locations to shorten the fan motor circuits.

 

[Snakester]

Varanus,

I did the two handed, gloves on, engine hot, heater on, approach.
I squeezed the lower hose, but doing the extra-squeeze on the main radiator feed hose was the one that made the difference for me.

Wow! you got on the N20 eh? Cool. What are you jetted for? Do you have a window switch? Did you do anything special for the fuel like extra high flow fuel pump, or propane jetting?

I'm getting roller rockers installed today, and I'm still hestitant about the N20. On the street I haven't run into anyone faster, but I'll admit that I haven't been looking. I suppose that when I take my car to the track and get beaten, then I'll have the incentive to install the N20.

-Dean.

 

[varanus]

Dean I am jetted for the 100 hp but will be putting on the 200 probably this week.. I didn't do the propane as i intended because of delevery/support problems.
Bought a window switch but need to have MSD reprogram it for the v10.
I talked to a guy who has run 14 bottles of nitrous out of san Jose. he said he runs against street bikes on a roll and hasn't lost yet. He works at motorcycle dealership and has a lot of bike friends, so I don't think he is BS'ing.
I added a progressive timer.
Hey even ted was smiling after the first run!

BTW did you squeeze the hose starting from the engine side towards the radiator or vice versa?

 

[SmokinV10]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by varanus:


BTW did you squeeze the hose starting from the engine side towards the radiator or vice versa?

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

If you cant figure it out, just squeeze your own hose. It should be much more fun!

Dont think you will burp though!

 

[Snakester]

Varanus,

I was going to do mild 120hp jetting on mine.

200hp jetting with a stock fuel system seems scary to me.

I had 125hp jetting on my last Corvette, and that was running a bit lean with the stock fuel system and injectors, but the advantage of the Vette was that it had a knock sensor that compensated for a lean mixture by backing off the timing.

My understanding was that the Viper didn't have that precaution, so we had to be more mindful of having a lean mixture.

I think that it would be well worth it for you to dyno the car. First without the N20, then with 100hp jetting, and then with 200hp jetting, watching the A/F mixture. It's better to be safe than sorry.

What kind of progressive timer did you get, and how does it work?

My roller rockers are in, but I have to buy more oil. I figured 6 quarts should be enough for the oil change, but with the new filter I'm still about 3 quarts shy. Oh well, back at it tomorrow.

I just squeezed the radiator hose from the center, but if I was trying to coax the air out directionally, I would squeeze it towards the radiator.

-Dean.