Kenne Bell 3.6 ltr Blower

[EllowViper]

I asked Sean about that several months ago. He indicated they are advertised as 42lb injectors but at the Viper's standard 55 PSI, they function like 50 lb injectors. Using the same logic, if I ramp the volume and pressure up to over 70 PSI, they should flow considerably more given what I have in injector duty cycle. At 6K RPM you only have 21ms of injector duty cycle. Right now I'm just over 100% duty cycle at 6k on my cold weather tune. (21ms x 64% scaling + 9.0 ms @ 13PSI)=22.4ms. So chances are I'll need bigger injectors...but I'll try the green tops first since I don't know the actual delivered flow one will have with the 2.8H blower.

 

[martyb]

....900cc bikes, GT500's, Z06's, Bentley GTs, Porsche Turbos, etc., etc....

Need more fuel, TBs, 2.8L blower....just in case


Oh yeah...and a clutch

Still the stock clutch, which held up pretty well in my opinion. I debated on throwing in a new lightweight flywheel also, but never pulled the trigger. Get that thing to the strip and see what she does

 

[FastZilla]

Still the stock clutch, which held up pretty well in my opinion. I debated on throwing in a new lightweight flywheel also, but never pulled the trigger. Get that thing to the strip and see what she does

I plan on it - I figure a few "learn how to launch" runs then I'll go for a 9s pass...get kicked out...Victory!!!

When the clutch is cold it sometimes won't hold the power in 5th @ 2500 under WOT - that's only around 800ft lbs at the flywheel - what a piece of junk

That's like strapping my tuned up Cummins to it....junk I tell you!

Good thing is that this is one of those "Honey, I can't drive the car without the new clutch - it could break and strand me somewhere" conversations with the wife

 

[FastZilla]

My above post sparks a question for all of you high HP guys on this thread:

How much will my stock drive & half shafts take. I am running PS Cups on the rear. I know it's time for loops but how much will the stock shafts/u-joints normally handle?

Thanks!

 

[plumcrazy]

if S/C'd with cups and tracking it, you are WAY over the OE half shaft limits


WAY OVER

 

[FastZilla]

if S/C'd with cups and tracking it, you are WAY over the OE half shaft limits


WAY OVER

Where do I need to go? (Brand, Make/model, etc.)

I don't track it (drag) - but I'd love to get kicked off a track for a 9s pass w/no roll bar. Don't want to wind up on YouTube in the process...

 

[martyb]

Eddie,

I always kept the stock half shafts as my fuse, or weak link, in the drivetrain. I figured its easier and cheaper to replace a half shaft rather than the rearend or trans. With better tires, you may risk breaking if you get wheel hop. Funny thing is the car never really suffered from wheel hop. I also loved hitting it in 3rd gear at 70mph and going sideways, although the wife hated it, thought I was not in control.

 

[white out]

I asked Sean about that several months ago. He indicated they are advertised as 42lb injectors but at the Viper's standard 55 PSI, they function like 50 lb injectors. Using the same logic, if I ramp the volume and pressure up to over 70 PSI, they should flow considerably more given what I have in injector duty cycle. At 6K RPM you only have 21ms of injector duty cycle. Right now I'm just over 100% duty cycle at 6k on my cold weather tune. (21ms x 64% scaling + 9.0 ms @ 13PSI)=22.4ms. So chances are I'll need bigger injectors...but I'll try the green tops first since I don't know the actual delivered flow one will have with the 2.8H blower.

There are so many injector options that upping your fuel pressure 15psi isn't necessary (but an adjustable fpr is cheaper than new, bigger injectors).

Nick

 

[plumcrazy]

talk to devin at unitrax 800-622-4327 for half shafts

 

[EllowViper]

Did a bunch of research last night on injector options...and yes lots of stuff out there. The green tops are actually a very good injector all things considered. I'd like to stay with the high impedance type vice peak & hold for my needs. Trade offs for both. Given the advertised specs at various fuel pressures, all I believe I would need are 55 lb (or 60 lb at the max) injectors for running 60 PSI fuel pressure. Again looking at $500-$600 for a set of 10.

 

[99 R/T 10]

Did a bunch of research last night on injector options...and yes lots of stuff out there. The green tops are actually a very good injector all things considered. I'd like to stay with the high impedance type vice peak & hold for my needs. Trade offs for both. Given the advertised specs at various fuel pressures, all I believe I would need are 55 lb (or 60 lb at the max) injectors for running 60 PSI fuel pressure. Again looking at $500-$600 for a set of 10.

If going with the 2.8, I don't believe the green tops will flow enough at the higher RPMs.

 

[white out]

Did a bunch of research last night on injector options...and yes lots of stuff out there. The green tops are actually a very good injector all things considered. I'd like to stay with the high impedance type vice peak & hold for my needs. Trade offs for both. Given the advertised specs at various fuel pressures, all I believe I would need are 55 lb (or 60 lb at the max) injectors for running 60 PSI fuel pressure. Again looking at $500-$600 for a set of 10.

Watch the psi that these injectors are based at. For example; You only need 550cc injectors (yellow tops) because they will flow 646cc @ 60psi (61.5lb) since the 550's are based off a 43.5psi rate.

PE has four different models of sidefeed injectors ranging from 550cc to 850cc; not sure what models will work the best for the Viper. I know the red top 850cc is a Subaru side-feed replacement. But I think the others are for Nissan.

Nick

 

[Sneaky Pete]

I'm not a big fan of super high fuel pressures, and definitely not of excessively high duty cycles. Some injectors will operate well above 80% DC, others wont. As a general rule, it's not good practice to do so. Spec the injectors for <80% DC if you're replacing them anyway.

I'd go with significantly larger injectors than what you think you need today. In the past I've bought the smallest injects that meet the needs at the time. They worked well, until I upped the power. Each time I had to sell my injectors and buy another set. At some point you start to run into tuning/resolution issues if you go too large... You're no where near that. The 96 lb (1000cc) injectors I just replaced in my Viper acted like the stock injectors (using an AEM). Now the 160 lb (1600cc) injectors I just put in the car are a hair past the limits of stock-type drivablity. The smallest changes make significant jumps in A/F ratio at the lowest levels. With this said, I'd highly recommend going with 72 lb (750cc) or even 80lb (840cc) injectors. They will operate like stock if the car is tuned properly, and you wont be running into this issue again anytime soon.

 

[pteam]

I plan on it - I figure a few "learn how to launch" runs then I'll go for a 9s pass...get kicked out...Victory!!!

When the clutch is cold it sometimes won't hold the power in 5th @ 2500 under WOT - that's only around 800ft lbs at the flywheel - what a piece of junk

That's like strapping my tuned up Cummins to it....junk I tell you!

Good thing is that this is one of those "Honey, I can't drive the car without the new clutch - it could break and strand me somewhere" conversations with the wife

Its is ALOT harder than most people think to get even close to a 9s pass if your not very experienced at the strip...

 

[pteam]

How much more hp would a 2.8 vs a 2.4 add in the exact same application without changing pullys etc? Then how much more would the 3.6 approximately add?

 

[Simms]

Anyone want a DW lower crank pulley to run with their 2.4L or new 3.6L compressor? Just let me know.

Carry on (sorry to hijack).

 

[FastZilla]

Its is ALOT harder than most people think to get even close to a 9s pass if your not very experienced at the strip...

I completely agree. Me + attempting to drag race = not likely.

I think there is a poster on the net somewhere of how not to drag race...I'm the driver on the poster.

I've got the reaction time of a sloth...

 

[FastZilla]

talk to devin at unitrax 800-622-4327 for half shafts

Thanks!!! Is it just the half shafts or is the driveshaft itself and issue?

 

[plumcrazy]

id think the half shafts but a driveshaft loop is a good idea.

 

[pteam]

I completely agree. Me + attempting to drag race = not likely.

I think there is a poster on the net somewhere of how not to drag race...I'm the driver on the poster.

I've got the reaction time of a sloth...

In my opinion its not even the reaction time.

On the street I can drive with 800 horsepower everyday and not have any problems with spirited driving.

However, my first trip to the drag strip (after being supercharged) was a whole different story. It was like I was a brand new driver! Spinning in all 4 gears, trying to keep the car straight on that strip was like nothing I had ever experienced ever, and I had drove that car every day in the summer. Fear of death, and hitting the wall... It was a totally different ball game.

 

[EllowViper]

Good points. I keep forgetting that if I'm running a boost referenced fuel regulator, I don't need to run a static 55PSI fuel pressure. I can run less fuel pressure during normal cruise operations (most are in the low 40's) and then adjust for boost induced manifold pressure as needed. If I'm running 20 PSI boost, then my fuel pressure needs to increase by 20 PSI to compensate for the boost. Max PSI I'd need to run would be somewhere in the 60's. THis should also lower fuel temps too. More pressure equals more heat. So Yes I agree the 55lb would be too light and the 96 lb injectors would probably be the better idea if they have good atomization characteristics.

 

[plumcrazy]

good info..

 

[Sneaky Pete]

Good points. I keep forgetting that if I'm running a boost referenced fuel regulator, I don't need to run a static 55PSI fuel pressure. I can run less fuel pressure during normal cruise operations (most are in the low 40's) and then adjust for boost induced manifold pressure as needed. If I'm running 20 PSI boost, then my fuel pressure needs to increase by 20 PSI to compensate for the boost. Max PSI I'd need to run would be somewhere in the 60's. THis should also lower fuel temps too. More pressure equals more heat. So Yes I agree the 55lb would be too light and the 96 lb injectors would probably be the better idea if they have good atomization characteristics.

I wouldn't fool around with a boost referenced regulator either if you have enough pump and injector. I'd set it at 45 to 50 lbs and forget about it. 96 lb injectors took my TT to 1200 whp at 80% DC and **** injection. I doubt you're ever going to get this out of your SC. If you're certain you wont ever go with a TT system (that's capable of this kind of power), I'd go a little smaller, say 72 or 80 lb injectors as mentioned above. If you think there's a chance you might want even more power than either of these are capable of producing, go for the 96's. My 96's ran excellent and actually made a little more power at the same boost settings than my 160 lb injectors, so I wouldn't recommend going too much larger.

I'd also recommend using a Bosch or a Bosch style injector...

Just my 2 cents.

 

[EllowViper]

Yes a Bosch injectors. Getting my parts list together right now for the fuel system. Already have the twin walbros in a box.

 

[EllowViper]

Wifey called and said my 2.4 blower just sold on EBAY to someone in Casa Grande Arizona. SO I'll be packing it up, shipping it off,and ordering my 2.8H very soon...and injectors...and fuel system stuff...and....and....and....

 

[KNG SNKE]

Wifey called and said my 2.4 blower just sold on EBAY to someone in Casa Grande Arizona. SO I'll be packing it up, shipping it off,and ordering my 2.8H very soon...and injectors...and fuel system stuff...and....and....and....

Good luck man

 

[BOTTLEFED]

about time!

 

[EllowViper]

Yea...love being the guinea pig for this project...like I'm made of money or something!! Sure love that little 2.4 though. Kinda cute sitting all alone on the bench. Good piece of gear. Pulled the drive snout off it and everything looks really good. Green spyder gear looks great and no leaks or weird anything that I can see. Drained the oil and that looked great. Hopefullythe new owner can use it well. His EBAY ID was something like blt454SS or something like that...so I don't think its anyone in the VCA that picked it up.

 

[RTTTTed]

I recently bought 1,000 hp Unitrax Titanium rea axles. Used those lightweight axles to replace my 800hp Unitrax rear axles (JonB got the set for me at a awesome price. I have Unitrax axlesshaft loops bolted to my frame. I also have 3 stocker style rear axles (2 are only slightly used) for the guy that likes them as a safety.

Having heavy shafts of broken metal tubing and cast chunkies spinng around at hundreds of rpm near my fuel and brake lines doesn't sound like much of a 'safety' to me. I also value my expensive shocks at the rear that would PROBABLY not break, but... I fell much safer thinking that any busting of the driveline would probably be inside the trans or diff.

9 secs requires slicks. Slicks make dragracing pretty simple and easy.

I'm sending out a few enquiries on the 2.8L blower system as well as this sounds like one of those things I really want.

TEd

 

[plumcrazy]

this is good news. ellow, please take pics and keep us posted.