LED Replacement Lighting Thread

PeterMJ

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Are the four resistors for the front and rear blinkers (1 each)? I see a lot of kits on ebay that come with 50W load resistors. Are these all we should need? And I assume they are wired in line with the (+) lead for the lights. In front, do you wire the resistor into the side marker or the main blinker?
No, one resistor per bulb up front which means you need four for the front turn and marker lights. If you want to use LED in the rear, you would need more. If you look at the front lights, there is a splice in wires going to your front markers and turn signals. Resistors should be installed after that splice/junction. You hook up resistors in parallel which means one end on positive and the other on negative wire. There is no other way to do it up front because of the way the lights are wired together.
 
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ohlarikd

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No, one resistor per bulb up front which means you need four for the front turn and marker lights. If you want to use LED in the rear, you would need more. If you look at the front lights, there is a splice in wires going to your front markers and turn signals. Resistors should be installed after that splice/junction. You hook up resistors in parallel which means one end on positive and the other on negative wire. There is no other way to do it up front because of the way the lights are wired together.

When you mount the resistors, please take a picture. Looking for ideas on safe places. I would prefer to use an existing bolt, and not drill any holes.
 

PeterMJ

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When you mount the resistors, please take a picture. Looking for ideas on safe places. I would prefer to use an existing bolt, and not drill any holes.
You actually would not need bolts, from what I see, you can mount a piece of aluminum to the plastic, using double sided tape, without any drilling. The resistors have aluminum heat sinks, mounting them on aluminum base would enlarge the heat sink and increase heat dissipation. I have to wait for the resistors to show up from China, may take a while.
 
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ohlarikd

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You actually would not need bolts, from what I see, you can mount a piece of aluminum to the plastic, using double sided tape, without any drilling. The resistors have aluminum heat sinks, mounting them on aluminum base would enlarge the heat sink and increase heat dissipation. I have to wait for the resistors to show up from China, may take a while.

Yes, that is possible if the heat is dissipated enough, just not sure how hot these will get. Looking forward to it.

It should be noted that I am not using any resistors and it works with aftermarket LCM (flasher module in steering column), except for this side marker situation. I am only getting two resistors total for the front blinkers to add the marker hopefully. I really don't care for those markers, but its true you cannot see the blinker otherwise from the side.
 

PeterMJ

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Yes, that is possible if the heat is dissipated enough, just not sure how hot these will get. Looking forward to it.

It should be noted that I am not using any resistors and it works with aftermarket LCM (flasher module in steering column), except for this side marker situation. I am only getting two resistors total for the front blinkers to add the marker hopefully. I really don't care for those markers, but its true you cannot see the blinker otherwise from the side.
This flasher does not cure the cause, just partially softens the effect, this is why you get that buzz on your hazard lights. IMO, you should not spend money on it. If you leave bulbs in the markers, adding the resistors to the turn signals after the junction should cure your problem. If you use LED on all four, you will need four resistors.
 
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ohlarikd

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This flasher does not cure the cause, just partially softens the effect, this is why you get that buzz on your hazard lights. IMO, you should not spend money on it. If you leave bulbs in the markers, adding the resistors to the turn signals after the junction should cure your problem. If you use LED on all four, you will need four resistors.

Could be true. Interested to see your results in all this with the resistor-only method. As for the LM470 LCM, I am working with the manufacturer on these issues. If they put their hands up, then so be it - resistors it is. Even with the regular bulbs, the LM470 buzzes with Hazards / Ignition OFF, so they are a bit alarmed by this.
 

PeterMJ

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Could be true. Interested to see your results in all this with the resistor-only method. As for the LM470 LCM, I am working with the manufacturer on these issues. If they put their hands up, then so be it - resistors it is. Even with the regular bulbs, the LM470 buzzes with Hazards / Ignition OFF, so they are a bit alarmed by this.
Here is a pretty neat solution to this problem, no cutting or splicing necessary. You can get them for the 194 marker lights as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Error-Free-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d03ed27f4&vxp=mtr

I guess I should have looked a bit more into this before buying the resistors. I'll let you know in a few days.
 
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ohlarikd

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Here is a pretty neat solution to this problem, no cutting or splicing necessary. You can get them for the 194 marker lights as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Error-Free-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d03ed27f4&vxp=mtr

I guess I should have looked a bit more into this before buying the resistors. I'll let you know in a few days.

Ah, interesting! So basically the same thing, just plug and play, and not a bad price either, all things considered (labor). So did you order these as well to test? They still get hot, so mount safely.

This thread is good, and I appreciate your inputs on other solutions. Hopefully after some success and failures, we can have something that is easy. I am still holding out with these LCM flasher module guys, maybe they can find a solution as well. The BCM is the Random Element in all this.
 

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PeterMJ

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looks like at least for the 194's there are bulbs with built in resistors

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Mercedes-Error-Free-LED-Parking-Lights-p/led_error_free_t10_2r.htm

Sorry if posting the website is against the rules. But I don't think we have any supporting vendors that sell LED's, do we?

edit - doesn't look like they have amber - maybe the adapters will work. I just wonder if the adapter is universal so that it will fit in the socket correctly
IMO, the adapters are better, LED bulbs are cheap, if these go out, you are looking at a chunk of money plus if there is a resistor in there, it is without a heatsink and very limited in heat dissipation...
 

PeterMJ

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good point...anticipating any fitment issues?
For the adapters? Not at all. One end simply plugs in the existing bulb socket and the new bulb socket goes in the light mounting base, pretty standarized stuff.
 
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ohlarikd

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For the adapters? Not at all. One end simply plugs in the existing bulb socket and the new bulb socket goes in the light mounting base, pretty standarized stuff.

I really like these adapters. I may give them a whirl soon. No splicing, cutting, or mounting. I don't know what the resistor values are though, and for some reason it says it does not fit a 2005 Viper... but that is most likely not accurate.

For my particular issue, VLED said I needed a 1.5 ohm resistor. I don't know what effect a larger value resistor would have.
 

PeterMJ

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I really like these adapters. I may give them a whirl soon. No splicing, cutting, or mounting. I don't know what the resistor values are though, and for some reason it says it does not fit a 2005 Viper... but that is most likely not accurate.

For my particular issue, VLED said I needed a 1.5 ohm resistor. I don't know what effect a larger value resistor would have.
All of resistors on the market seem to be 6 Ohm, not sure why they told you to get 1.5 Ohm. You can wait until I get them and find out. The turn signal bulbs should be about twenty watts and about 6.9 Ohm which gives you about 3.5 ohms at the relay. I guess you could find out from VLED what info they have... Six ohm sounds about right, I am guessing this is why all resistors on fleabay have this value.
 
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Steve M

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Those Ebay harnesses are interesting...if you guys get those to work with the turn signals, please let me know. Those four bulbs are the only ones I have left (well, besides the high/low beams and fogs) that aren't LEDs.
 

PeterMJ

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Those Ebay harnesses are interesting...if you guys get those to work with the turn signals, please let me know. Those four bulbs are the only ones I have left (well, besides the high/low beams and fogs) that aren't LEDs.
There is no reason why you cannot use LED bulbs for fog lights, I am making some fog lights for my Viper and this is exactly what I did, just like I did on my vette. They are plenty bright, run cool and draw little current.
 

PeterMJ

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Ok, I ordered a set of the 3157 eBay bypass adapters. I will let you know how that works out.
why didn't you wait? Mine should be here next week. Just in case there is a problem, you would not have to learn the hard way, LOL.
 
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ohlarikd

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why didn't you wait? Mine should be here next week. Just in case there is a problem, you would not have to learn the hard way, LOL.

Cause I am using it in conjunction with the LCM, and also the switchbacks. So there are some other elements at play here.
 
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ohlarikd

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Hopefully you can get your money back for that LCM...

Honestly, the LCM works great, except for the lack of side markers. No resistors anywhere. I don't care about the ugly side markers, but in the interest of finding a solution, I want to see if the adapters work. I don't really plan on returning the LCM.
 

PeterMJ

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Honestly, the LCM works great, except for the lack of side markers. No resistors anywhere. I don't care about the ugly side markers, but in the interest of finding a solution, I want to see if the adapters work. I don't really plan on returning the LCM.
If they work, what do you exactly need that relay for?
 
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ohlarikd

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If they work, what do you exactly need that relay for?

I understand what you are saying. Let's see what happens. I may be able to return the LCM based merely on the fact that the hazards do not work. Seems like one pair of resistors may be all I need.
 

PeterMJ

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I understand what you are saying. Let's see what happens. I may be able to return the LCM based merely on the fact that the hazards do not work. Seems like one pair of resistors may be all I need.
Maybe. You are running LED in the rear turns as well. I have not looked at the rear lights, I will most likely just swap reverse and plate bulbs. If it works for me and it still does not work for you, you will know the culprit.
 

malcoll

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Once you guys get this figured out... we need to post the part numbers and source.... I have been wanting to replace all the exterior bulbs with LEDs..... so thank you both for all the trial and error work!
 

beerly

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Well, I got these today. They don't work. When plugged in the lights don't flash, just stay on. The one for the side marker works but because the bulb is on the end of a stick, theres no way to use it. Looks like spliced resistors may still be the solution. These are going back. PeterMJ let us know if you have any luck. I'm going to order some now.

Here is a pretty neat solution to this problem, no cutting or splicing necessary. You can get them for the 194 marker lights as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Error-Free-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d03ed27f4&vxp=mtr

I guess I should have looked a bit more into this before buying the resistors. I'll let you know in a few days.
 

PeterMJ

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Well, I got these today. They don't work. When plugged in the lights don't flash, just stay on. The one for the side marker works but because the bulb is on the end of a stick, theres no way to use it. Looks like spliced resistors may still be the solution. These are going back. PeterMJ let us know if you have any luck. I'm going to order some now.
did you try to put regular bulb back in the marker and then try these adapters? Also, for now, put the bulbs back in the back in the turn signals, they are on the same circuit as the fronts. You need to eliminate the cause one by one.
 
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ohlarikd

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Well, I got these today. They don't work. When plugged in the lights don't flash, just stay on. The one for the side marker works but because the bulb is on the end of a stick, theres no way to use it. Looks like spliced resistors may still be the solution. These are going back. PeterMJ let us know if you have any luck. I'm going to order some now.

Well... guess 3 of us shouldn't have ordered them at once :rolleyes: Oh well. What do you mean by 'the side marker works'? OH - you bought a resistor for the side market as well? You don't need that one from what I can tell. You just need the one on the main 3157, and leave that one off. Did you try that?

Mine should be here tomorrow or Friday, so we can compare notes.
 

PeterMJ

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Well... guess 3 of us shouldn't have ordered them at once :rolleyes: Oh well. What do you mean by 'the side marker works'? OH - you bought a resistor for the side market as well? You don't need that one from what I can tell. You just need the one on the main 3157, and leave that one off. Did you try that?
I think I told you to wait, LOL. No, I am talking about the lights in the triangles, if you have LEDs in these locations, put the light bulbs back in there and then use the adapters on the turn signals.
 
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ohlarikd

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I think I told you to wait, LOL. No, I am talking about the lights in the triangles, if you have LEDs in these locations, put the light bulbs back in there and then use the adapters on the turn signals.

I am bit impulsive...

I am calling the lights in the triangle, the ones on the stick, side markers. We are talking about the same thing. Try all combos, regular bulb, LED bulb, no adapter cable on triangle light, etc. etc.
 

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