ohlarikd
Enthusiast
I was waiting for this response... Chuck Tator will perform the final tune, I think I can drive it there if I keep it at low throttle.
LED Replacement Lighting Thread
- Thread starter ohlarikd
- Start date
I was waiting for this response... Chuck Tator will perform the final tune, I think I can drive it there if I keep it at low throttle.
Steve M
Enthusiast
It's worth about 10 RWHP if you do them all due to the reduced electrical load on the alternator.
Just be careful. You are messing with fire.....
Sounds good. Glad there was some engineering involved and data kept.... Was this on 93 octane or C-16..?
Looks Great guys. Thanks for taking the time to figure the details....
Steve M
Enthusiast
C16...you never, EVER run LEDs on pump gas. Ever.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
The new V-LED V3 Switchbacks have a DRL feature now, although I don't know how to implement it, if at all possible. Basically, if the bulb senses a constant 12V signal on the turn signal circuit for more than 3 seconds, it will switch to DRL mode, a constant white light. I am trying to think of an easy way to implement this, so that when the pulsed 12V turn signal comes on (which can be +12 and -12), the constant 12V turns off.
Anyone have any ideas?
Anyone have any ideas?
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Also, for the V3 Triton bulbs, they sell a plug and play resistor kit, so you don't need to splice anything. More expensive then using splice in resistors, but its a small price to pay, $20.
http://www.v-leds.com/Load-Resistors/V3-TRITON-CLS-2-4-BULB-p9816934.html
I ordered a pair. Everything is on pre-order for another week or so, so I will report then.
http://www.v-leds.com/Load-Resistors/V3-TRITON-CLS-2-4-BULB-p9816934.html
I ordered a pair. Everything is on pre-order for another week or so, so I will report then.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Now that I re-look at the wiring diagram on Post 81, it is quite obvious why we need a dual polarity marker light.
+12 Parking, 0 Volt Turn -> +12 to Marker
0 Volt Parking, +12 Turn -> -12 to Marker
+12 Parking, +12 Turn -> 0 to Marker --and-- +12 Parking, 0V Turn -> +12 to Marker, therefore it flashes
It also explains why the marker blinks in SYNC when Parking lights are OFF, and blinks OUT of Sync when the Parking lights are ON.
Duh. Oh well.
+12 Parking, 0 Volt Turn -> +12 to Marker
0 Volt Parking, +12 Turn -> -12 to Marker
+12 Parking, +12 Turn -> 0 to Marker --and-- +12 Parking, 0V Turn -> +12 to Marker, therefore it flashes
It also explains why the marker blinks in SYNC when Parking lights are OFF, and blinks OUT of Sync when the Parking lights are ON.
Duh. Oh well.
noisy
Viper Owner
Got my new LEDS for the gaugle clusters and center console. Any ideas on how to remove the center console dash and gauge overlay?
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Sorry for the quick answer, but there are many many threads on this. Search this forum. The shifter ring does not need to be removed, but the shaft and handle does (some bolts under the cover). The cover first carefully snaps up with some clips. The main gauge panel comes off with those exposed screws and I believe one internal screw on the bottom. Anyway, check the forums. It seems daunting the first time cause of the fear of breaking clips.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
I got the V3 Switchbacks today. It comes with a surprising amount of parts. The V3-CLS is an optional part - basically plug-and-play resistors, instead of splicing.
All connected for one side, it looks like this:
The white wire is an optional wire to connect to the headlight to dim the white LED 50% when the headlights are on. I don't plan on doing that, bur I guess there are situations when that is needed. The 2nd box is a dual LED controller. I do not think that box is needed in the single color Amber or Red V3s, not sure. The system comes with dielectric grease and heat shrink tubing to make it water tight. Now, trying to figure out where to mount all this stuff. Given the current freezing weather in my area, it may be awhile before I tackle this.
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All connected for one side, it looks like this:
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The white wire is an optional wire to connect to the headlight to dim the white LED 50% when the headlights are on. I don't plan on doing that, bur I guess there are situations when that is needed. The 2nd box is a dual LED controller. I do not think that box is needed in the single color Amber or Red V3s, not sure. The system comes with dielectric grease and heat shrink tubing to make it water tight. Now, trying to figure out where to mount all this stuff. Given the current freezing weather in my area, it may be awhile before I tackle this.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Here are the LEDs themselves:
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JohnnyH
Enthusiast
Looks great! Let us know how it interacts with the car with it being a plug'n'play setup
Can someone post a link that works for the correct Foglight Bulb?
I saw that it was a H10 LED. Is 5k the closest match? What is the best place to get them, v-leds seemed really expensive but I do want a quality part.
Has the front turn signal switch back issue been resolved? Any switchback that will plug in without issues or other mods?
Thanks
I saw that it was a H10 LED. Is 5k the closest match? What is the best place to get them, v-leds seemed really expensive but I do want a quality part.
Has the front turn signal switch back issue been resolved? Any switchback that will plug in without issues or other mods?
Thanks
Mamba52
Enthusiast
Ordered mine 11/29 from V led still haven't received them.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
The H10 is correct. 5K or 6K are the only options. The stock HIDs are about 4.3K, which is the old standard color for HID back in 2005. So they will not directly match. I haven't seen a ~4.3K LED replacement bulb.
As for switchback, for the standard LED version, all the info is here and it was resolved. For this new V3 switchback, I am going to try it today...
Is there another vendor that doesnt charge a fortune for LEDs but is high quality?
I will wait for your new switchback test, I would only do it if its plug and play and is reliable like stock. It sure is a cool looking mod
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Ok V3 switchbacks... this is really good. Not only does it work, you do not need ANY resistors front or back, using the stock relay. Basically, the V3 system has an optional plug in module, and this module acts as the resistors. Interestingly, it has a regular tiny 20W or 35W light bulb inside. Use the 20W if you just replace the front signal to LED, and use 35W if you have front and rear replaced. I put back my stock relay module in the steering column. If that tiny bulb eventually does blow, I will get the fast blink so I will know about it.
At this point, using the V3 system, its all plug and play with no resistors. I just need to figure out how to mount all this, but it WORKS, plug and play.
Yes, for the front pair, it will run you $120.
At this point, using the V3 system, its all plug and play with no resistors. I just need to figure out how to mount all this, but it WORKS, plug and play.
Yes, for the front pair, it will run you $120.
Steve M
Enthusiast
I've tried the cheaper ones in the past with my other vehicles, and it really seems like you get what you pay for with LEDs. These V3s are really a cool design...what I've found is that LED drop in replacements often sit too far into the reflector housings due to their heat sink bases. This puts the light source too far out from the focal point of the reflector...you can test this by turning the light on, and messing with pulling it in and out until you get the absolute brightest output from the reflector (typically this happens when you pull them out about the length of the heat sinks). These LEDs allow you to adjust where the light source sits in the reflectors, which I've not seen with any other designs, and should allow them to sit properly in nearly any reflector.
Provided these work okay (flashers included), the V3s is what I'll be picking up for my turn signals. If I like them enough, I'll replace my current LED tail lamps with this design too.
Steve M
Enthusiast
Is the tiny bulb serviceable?
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Yes, I will post pics later. But the plug in module has a screw on cover. You remove the cover and replace the bulb. That is how you can switch between 20W and 35W bulbs. I tested it with the 20W watt bulb and it hyper flashes. It flashes normally with the 35W bulb. So if the bulb does go eventually, you will know it.
Steve M
Enthusiast
Interesting...I'd almost be tempted just to install the resistors just to keep from ever having to service them. Granted, turn signals don't get used often enough to blow all that often.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Seems like the regular 6-ohm resistors I had were really big, and wouldn't fit in there. But test it out if you can find something. May be a heat dissipation problem too, not sure.
VicTxV10
Enthusiast
Mine have been on order for about the same time.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
There are two modules that need to be mounted. Here is the first one, but I think this is only for SWITCHBACKS. If you have regular Amber single color, I am not sure if this controller is needed. It does not generate heat, so I am using double sided foam tape to mount it under the headlight:
The 'resistor' module (with the lightbulb), is a little bit bigger. I just couldn't find anywhere near the headlight where it would fit since the inner fender shield would always hit it. So here is where I finally put it, against the engine wall. There are two protruding screws there, so I just made a little bracket and attached it on that post:
Of course, now the wires are too short. They make 1 foot extension cables that plug in as well, so I am ordering those. The other side - haven't looked at it yet, so not sure about mounting points there at this moment.
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The 'resistor' module (with the lightbulb), is a little bit bigger. I just couldn't find anywhere near the headlight where it would fit since the inner fender shield would always hit it. So here is where I finally put it, against the engine wall. There are two protruding screws there, so I just made a little bracket and attached it on that post:
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Of course, now the wires are too short. They make 1 foot extension cables that plug in as well, so I am ordering those. The other side - haven't looked at it yet, so not sure about mounting points there at this moment.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
This V3 bulb is VERY bright. Way brighter than the 92-LED version I had. Wish I had these for brake lights now... big difference.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
The VLED H10 bulbs were actually cheaper than say the Sylvania Silverstar halogen bulbs. I had those bulbs, and the color was more 4.3K. I returned them and got the LEDs. Better color and cheaper. Although I don't see the 5K color bulb available anymore, just 6K, which in my opinion is too blue.
I noticed an interesting thing in the Viper manual. You can make your fog lights into fully functional DRLs with a dealer-software change. Apparently the DRL is required in Canada, and is just a minor change from the dealer to enable it.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Picture ended up looking crappy, but you get the idea. There is a lot of space in that module, but inside is merely this bulb. 4 screws.
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VicTxV10
Enthusiast
So for all the rear lights, just plug in a go. For the front switchbacks, I'll need these two resistor modules for both sides to make them work?
Also, does one plug into the other and them the switch back?
Also, does one plug into the other and them the switch back?
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Actually, regardless if you use switchbacks or just the single color V3s, you need that resistor module (V3-CLS). It comes in a pair, so you only order one pair for the whole car. One CLS module for the left side, which takes care of both the front and rear, and the other module for the right, front and rear.
Also, you don't need V3s for the rear. I have V3s in front and regular LEDs in the back, and it works fine.
Yes, they all plug into each other. The resistor module CLS plus in-line. Again - that seconds module says 'dual color system', so if you don't have switchbacks, I don't think you will have that box.
EDIT: That white wire you see is optional. It detects if your headlights are on and dims the 'white LED' by 50%. I guess in some applications, it gets too blinding. I didn't use it, but I also haven't seen the car outside to see.
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Steve M
Enthusiast
Thanks for taking one for the team on these and posting your findings (as well as some great pics).
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