Monster wheels... Monster weight???

[dave6666]

OK... Got the new wheels and tires mounted together yesterday and decided to compare them using a bathroom scale to the old wheels and tires. I know, not terribly accurate, but I weighed them like 4 times each to get an average, and anyway that's a good enough number for what I wanted to do.

OLD WHEELS AND TIRES

-> Front '01 OE wheel with near new (minus laser burn... ) PS2 275/35

-> Rear '01 OE wheel with 3/32" Pilot Sport 335/30

NEW TIRES AND WHEELS

-> Front 19x11 iForged Classic with new PS2 295/30

-> Rear 20x13 iForged Classic with new PS2 335/30

BATHROOM SCALE RESULTS

Both front and rear the new wheels are a few pounds heavier.

Soooooooooooo...

Published tire weights of the above show my new tires are a few pounds heavier each.

So that means my new rims weigh the same as the factory rims or thereabouts.

I thought aftermarket rims were lighter? Or did the 20/19 change zap that savings?

 

[DEADEYE]

Mine are heavier too. They're bigger and wider, the tires lost alittle sidewall but they're also wider. It seems you can't have bling without payiong the price.

 

[ViperGTS]

18" are lightest...average value.
no secret at all.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[dave6666]

With my brake mods I'm still probably break even on the overall scheme of things, if not even a few pounds saved. And the bling factor versus the weight factor? Bling baby! I just thought that aftermarket wheels were significantly lighter that stock given the same size, and that in my case increasing the size a little would have still resulted in less weight. Oh well. Bling baby!

 

[sniper1]

All the stuff listed by JonB, although informational it's just not all the FAQS... There are a lot of other factors involved to include, tire temps, atmostphere temps/conditions, quality of suspension, quality (stability) of wheels (true and round), road conditions, drag coaficiant of the road surface, quality of the raod surface, angle and crown of the road itself, contanminants on the road surface, and on and on and on!!! And don't forget the quality of the driver to include experience and general driving abilities... The point is, don't overdrive your car or your abilities... Maintain your ENTIRE vehicle front to back and top to bottom in relation to your driving habits, (the harder/more you drive your car) the more attention to maintaining or upgrading its parts it will need. Oh, as for lighter wheels, buying crashed car wheels especially from PartsRack.com is like taking your hard earned money and flushing it down the toilet. Remember they came off a CRASHED VIPER which was probably being driven hard and slightly abused! JonB from PartsRack.com deals in just such cars and is only interested in what he can sell you and not your safety or the tested quality of the parts he sells. I suggest buying new OE/AFTER MARKET wheels with a warranty and then you will know their condition and quality... By the way, in most driving conditions the rear wheels/tires get more so called abuse than the front wheels/tires because of acceleration/torque so you can replace the rear tires twice before the fronts, just try to stay within a four year span manufacture date from the old front tires and new rear tires...

Dalton Vaughn
Pro Racer

 

[dave6666]

Not to pick sides on your statement there sniper1, but I believe that some of the wheels from Parts Rack are customer trade ins. Not that they haven't also seen some wear and tear, but claiming everything he sells is "wrecked" is probably stretching it some.

Back to discussing rim weight eh?

 

[ViperGTS]

Dalton, for some reason I LIKE your post...

 

[apun]

Hey Dave,

I posted my weights on my thread:

http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/622180-iforged-sprint-wheels-mounted.html

According to my bathroom scale, I gained about 5 lb per front wheel/tire and about 9 lb per rear wheel/tire.

Alex

 

[dave6666]

Hey Dave,

I posted my weights on my thread:

http://forums.viperclub.org/rt-10-gts-discussions/622180-iforged-sprint-wheels-mounted.html

According to my bathroom scale, I gained about 5 lb per front wheel/tire and about 9 lb per rear wheel/tire.

Alex

I saw that. My gain is not that much. More like the difference in the tire weight which is 3 front, 5 rear or so.

No biggie. I'm losing that in my brake mods.

 

[sniper1]

OOPS, got carried away there but umm, yeah any rotating mass you can shedd is a good thing if it its cost effective, but looks are very important too!!! as for trades and swap parts, your still left wondering where they came from and what kinda life they had... thanx Jon it means a lot that you do...

 

[GeneralLee]

I have the 18" SSRs, and while I didnt weight them, just by picking them up, they are WAY lighter than the stock 17"s that were on the car....Id guess at least 10 pounds per rim/tire each...... Stockers had worn PS1s, SSRs had new PS2s.

 

[Sweet Ride]

Buy some magnesium rims for huge weight savings...

Not just on the car but in your wallet as well.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Dave, how about throwing those calipers on the scale?

I'd like to know if a {four-piston front caliper + parking brake + bracket} combo weighs more than the {OEM caliper + bracket} out back.

On a Gen 1, the OEM front caliper weighs about the same as the OEM rear, believe it or not.

 

[Viperless]

I'm always weighing parts. Here's what I came up with for wheel/tire weights:

Stock 18" wheel/tire combo:

Front - 57 lbs (275/40-18) PS1's
Rear - 63 lbs (335/30-18)

19" CCW 550 wheel/tire combo (fronts wheels are 11" wide):

Front - 57 lbs (295/30-19) PS2's
Rear - 65 lbs (345/30-19)

I was hoping they would be lighter than the factory wheels/tires but given that they're significantly larger with only a two lb. weight gain per side in the rear, I guess that's not so bad. The 550's are a pretty stout wheel.

CCW Classic wheel/Hoosier VRL tire combo:

Front - 49 lbs 18 x 12 - 315-30-18
Rear - 50 lbs 18 x 13 - 335/30-18

Now that's more like it!!

 

[Dave's Big Brakes]

[

So that means my new rims weigh the same as the factory rims or thereabouts.

I thought aftermarket rims were lighter? Or did the 20/19 change zap that savings?

[/quote]

Hey Dave,

You didn't ask me I would have told you aftermarket doesn't mean lighter JUST MORE MONEY
VR-1's & all ACR wheels and SSR's are the lightest.

All that bling

Big Brake Dave

 

[dave6666]

Tom... All of the new stuff is already bolted on the car, and the old calipers are still hanging from zip ties with the lines attached. Should be different by days end I hope.

I may not be able to get the exact combo of weights you were looking for on the brake parts but I can pull a lot of it together. I'll certainly be able to do a wholesale weight +/- of Gen 2 entirely stock to the SRT ACR equivalent which is what I think the upgrade I'm doing is. The only difference there is the ACR uses Stop Tech and I'm using Euroteck rotors.

 

[dave6666]

Oh yeah...

Here are the actual weights on the wheels as outlined in my first post.

OLD...

Front - 55.6 #
Rear - 61.8 #

NEW...

Front - 57 #
Rear - 67.6 #

Once again, the weight gain is approximately the increase in the tire weight, meaning my new rims weigh about the same as my old rims.

No problem as they are big and shiny and oh so **** looking.

 

[RoadiJeff]

Youy could get some of those aluminum lug nuts from the other thread on here and save an ounce or two.

 

[dave6666]

Youy could get some of those aluminum lug nuts from the other thread on here and save an ounce or two.

The McGard Spline Drive nuts that Viper Specialty supplied are actually 10 grams lighter each than stock. That's 240 grams total. That's 9 oz total. Over half a pound!

 

[2MANYTOYS]

All the stuff listed by JonB, although informational it's just not all the FAQS... There are a lot of other factors involved to include, tire temps, atmostphere temps/conditions, quality of suspension, quality (stability) of wheels (true and round), road conditions, drag coaficiant of the road surface, quality of the raod surface, angle and crown of the road itself, contanminants on the road surface, and on and on and on!!! And don't forget the quality of the driver to include experience and general driving abilities... The point is, don't overdrive your car or your abilities... Maintain your ENTIRE vehicle front to back and top to bottom in relation to your driving habits, (the harder/more you drive your car) the more attention to maintaining or upgrading its parts it will need. Oh, as for lighter wheels, buying crashed car wheels especially from PartsRack.com is like taking your hard earned money and flushing it down the toilet. Remember they came off a CRASHED VIPER which was probably being driven hard and slightly abused! JonB from PartsRack.com deals in just such cars and is only interested in what he can sell you and not your safety or the tested quality of the parts he sells. I suggest buying new OE/AFTER MARKET wheels with a warranty and then you will know their condition and quality... By the way, in most driving conditions the rear wheels/tires get more so called abuse than the front wheels/tires because of acceleration/torque so you can replace the rear tires twice before the fronts, just try to stay within a four year span manufacture date from the old front tires and new rear tires...

Dalton Vaughn
Pro Racer

Why are you throwing a HIGHLY VALUED site supporter under the bus??? You are stretching the truth at best. I'm sure SOME of the stuff he sells comes off of wrecked cars but saying that's all he sells is BS. JonB has helped numerous people on this site with valuable information and decent prices. To say he ONLY cares about selling you a product without thinking about your safety is BS and deserves an apology.

 

[dave6666]

Why are you throwing a HIGHLY VALUED site supporter under the bus??? You are stretching the truth at best. I'm sure SOME of the stuff he sells comes off of wrecked cars but saying that's all he sells is BS. JonB has helped numerous people on this site with valuable information and decent prices. To say he ONLY cares about selling you a product without thinking about your safety is BS and deserves an apology.

I agree to a point and stated that also. I don't however want to turn this into a vendor review thread.

I'm policing my own stuff aren't I?

 

[2MANYTOYS]

I agree to a point and stated that also. I don't however want to turn this into a vendor review thread.

I'm policing my own stuff aren't I?

Yeah but not forceful enough!

 

[Viper Specialty]

Hey Guys,

In general, most aftermarket wheel/tire combos of the SAME SIZE, will save weight. [save the ACR/copperhead wheels]

In Daves case, he plus-sized 1" in front, and 2" in rear, which would easily account for the weight change. If sticking with 18's, the numbers would have been lower... but less BLING!

On the SRT-10's however, you can plus-size the wheels and STILL save weight due to the extremely heavy OEM wheel and RunFlat tires.

 

[JonB]

All the stuff listed by JonB, although informational it's just not all the FAQS............. The point is, don't overdrive your car or your abilities... Maintain your ENTIRE vehicle front to back and top to bottom in relation to your driving habits, (the harder/more you drive your car) the more attention to maintaining or upgrading its parts it will need. Oh, as for lighter wheels, buying crashed car wheels especially from PartsRack.com is like taking your hard earned money and flushing it down the toilet. Remember they came off a CRASHED VIPER which was probably being driven hard and slightly abused! JonB from PartsRack.com deals in just such cars and is only interested in what he can sell you and not your safety or the tested quality of the parts he sells. Dalton Vaughn Pro Racer.

Dalton Vaughn, Pro Racer: Your 8 total posts are indeed impressive, along with your Pro Racer signature. (How many weeks have you owned a Viper?)

Thanks to those who pointed me to 'pro-racer' Vaughn's inflammatory post.

His above post is a blatant and false attack. Totally untrue. Spoken like a Pro-Asss, not a Pro-racer. And a clueless asss at that. As with the article posted above, I have worked toward and written for over a decade on VIPER OWNER SAFETY. (and other brands before Viper.) Ask Skip Thomas and others. Ask the clubs in the early days who it was that flew to their events and helped put on driving and safety or tech clinics. There are probably many, many DOZENS of folks here who know I wont take a sale at any price if I feel the product is unsafe or inferior.

Dalton Vaughn, 'pro racer', you are clueless here as well: PartsRack sells aftermarket, OE new, and Customer take-off / trade-in wheels. Less than 5% of our wheel sales are from Organ-Donor wrecks. And any of those wheels we sell are off the "UN-WRECKED" portions of the car. We do not refurbish any wrecked wheels. (We leave that to Flea-Bay sellers.) To explain: A Viper may total with a front hit, and have two PERFECT rears. (Flat spots, sometimes. ) Or a car totals with a left-hit, and leaves 2 perfect right sides. Some cars have under 1000 miles on em! We disclose and sell those wheels, and we even save the VIN info.

When Dave6666 rises to MY defense, I am left almost speechless. (thanks D6)

Not to pick sides on your statement there sniper1, but I believe that some of the wheels from Parts Rack are customer trade ins. Not that they haven't also seen some wear and tear, but claiming everything he sells is "wrecked" is probably stretching it some. Back to discussing rim weight eh?

 

[CitySnake]

We disclose and sell those wheels, and we even save the VIN info.

What's with the ridiculous Parts Rack bashing! If someone wants a NEW wheel, Jon gives them a hefty discount. If someone wants an "inexpensive" wheel, Jon offers you an alternative WITH FULL DISCLOSURE!

What the hell is the problem with that?

Damn, are there not there are enough questionable Viper vendors out there that we have to try to discredit one of our best? This speaks completely to the poster....NOT the vendor!