My airbox looks like crap What have others done on a Gen1 ? Pics please

[npeifer]

My airbox on my 96 RT/10 looks bad and needs replaced. Just wondering what others have done since I see a lot of stuff on ebay.

If you could post pics that would be great.

 

[RoadiJeff]

Funny you asked that today. Earlier today I had my stock airbox replaced with a custom made krinkle red powdercoated one from PBJ. He also added a catch can in matching powdercoat. Although mine is a Gen 2 I mentioned your message while I was over there watching him install everything and he says he can make something similar for your car.

Performance By Joe

Here are my before pics earlier this morning and the after ones, three hours later. I still have a lot of detailing work to do under the hood but right now I'm up to my elbows working on my version of the ultimate garage to park my baby in.

Before:

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After (right side - notice the krinkle red catch can):

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After (Sneaky Pete logo). Although it is hard to see there is a deflector incorporated into the front of the intake to direct cold air up from the fascia, like the Vipair does. Also, see how Joe puts the IAT sensor right in the middle, between the two filters:

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After (catch can):

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[FE 065]

Any worries about having the PBJ catch can (the can's filter) so close to the alternator and serpentine belt? Obviously the catch can's filter is there to prevent oil, and I suppose oil mist from getting past it-but I was concerned about placement when doing mine a couple years ago.

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The thought of any oil mist at all getting onto the serp belt had me deciding against having it where the one in the pic is. The filter can flow either way after all.

 

[C O D Y]

If anyone wants to sell there old airbox, please call or email me.

[email protected]

or

360-772-5555

THANKS!

 

[syldogRT/10]

Um, that's very cool. Dare I ask how $$$$?
Thanks for the pics!

 

[RoadiJeff]

PBJ custom makes each intake, according to what each person wants. Some of the choices are different braze-ons for any additional hoses on the intake tubes, the Vipair style deflector is optional and you can have the parts painted or powdercoated in just about any color you want.

Mine was $700 for the intake which included the box, K&N filters, tubes and a choice of silicone coupling colors. The catch can was an additional $150. Joe installed them for no additional charge while I waited.

 

[Jay Herbert]

K&N

K&N

I plan to straighten out/replace the intake tubes when it arrives home, and will likely place radiant heat shield on the outside.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

Re: K&N

Hey Jay, I'd add a Roe p/s vent tube kit to your p/s cap as well!

 

[npeifer]

Re: K&N

What do you mean by "straighten out" the intake tubes ? Do you mean like using the straight red ones instead of the curved ones ? Will that even work with that airbox ?

 

[XS TORQ]

Re: K&N

I would be curious to see what someone who tries this has to say about using this type of air "box" for a Gen 1 without the NACA duct. Run cooler? Hotter? Even if it didn't provide any benefit, as long as it wasn't worse, I'd consider it.
The Henn-S-E carbon fibre boxes look/looked cool also.

 

[AndyR]

Here's my '93

 

[1999GTSsilverwblue]

I remember reading in a DC Newsletter that the NACA duct by itself is insufficient to supply all the air requirements so access to air at the bottom in front of the radiator is necessary , like the Henn open front that can pull from both NACA and front of radiator is necessary to ensure adequate air flow a higher RPM's.

I have seen tests of WS6/Ram Air Firebirds that clearly reveal the Larger twin scoops of the WS6 cannot supply enough air for a 5.7 Litre.

 

[FE 065]

While we're at it, here's what Kenne Bell thinks of underhood clamp on filters. I ran across it just minutes ago while reading over his site's blower info.

http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/general-info/HotAirWARNING.pdf

 

[KepRght]

10 degree hotter air is = 1psi of boost. quote strait from kenny bell

It is, of course, your decision if you choose for your engine to **** in this hot underhood air with one of these over the counter or "custom" kits.
However, these things are not good for our superchargers and we not only don't recommend them, we are warning against the use of them. Look at
the facts. 10° of hotter air is equivalent to 1 psi of boost. That means the difference between the fenderwell ambient 70° system and the hot underhood
air temp can be an amazing 130° (200°-70°=130°) hotter. That 130° equates to about 13 psi of additional boost (13x10°=130°). So, you thought your
engine was only seeing the increased temperature of 100° from 10 psi boost (10x10°=100°). Wrong. It's 100°+130° or 230° plus the ambient. That's
the air temp of 23 psi boost! Surprised?Are you getting the picture yet?

 

[KepRght]

does teh k&n box or the PBJ box seal to the hood 100% ?

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

I remember reading in a DC Newsletter that the NACA duct by itself is insufficient to supply all the air requirements so access to air at the bottom in front of the radiator is necessary , like the Henn open front that can pull from both NACA and front of radiator is necessary to ensure adequate air flow a higher RPM's.

I have seen tests of WS6/Ram Air Firebirds that clearly reveal the Larger twin scoops of the WS6 cannot supply enough air for a 5.7 Litre.

In addition, from my work experience, there's a common misconception that a low scoop will grab high velocity air, or a hole in your hood will grab provide a ram air effect at high speed. Typically, higher velocity air does not mate with the surface contour or in other words, along the painted surface of your car. There's typically a dead / turbulent zone about 1 1/2" (depending on the shape of the car nose) as the air flows over the hood of the car. To scrape off some of that high velocity air, you need a scoop above that dead zone distance. That's why you see Pro Stock drag cars with elevated scoops. Even the old Mopar shaker hoods are really worthless attaining a ram air effect, yet they are exposed to the colder fresh air which is good. It's why the old super stock cars, like my Barracuda pictured below had a 4" scoop to grab the high velocity air from the top of the hood. The Chevy cowl hoods work ok too, because as the high velocity air ramps up the windshield rake it compressed the air under it. I'm really babbling now..

Next time you are bored on a highway, roll your window down do the airplane thing with your hand in the wind, as you get raise your hand above your door mirror you'll see there is barely any wind about 1/2" - 1" above the painted surface top of the mirror housing, as the air shears around the front. Just don't get caught waving your hand up & down like some kind of fruitcake, never know who will see you.

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[Jay Herbert]

does teh k&n box or the PBJ box seal to the hood 100% ?

K&N box does, that is one reason I choose it. I talked with Dan Cragin, and the the trick for enough air is to have both the NACA duct (which I added to my hood) and a system to get the air over the top of the radiator, which I had added too. As for the underhood hot air, that is why I plan to put reflective heat shielding on the outside of the box AND between the radiator and the piece routing the cool air from the fascia.

As for "straigtening out the intake" I plan to make tubes shaped more like the those pictured in the red air box pictured... without the very pronounced "S" beond of the ones on the K&N.

 

[SYNFULL]

If you find tubes to use for the k&n please let me know- I have the same setup and want to put less restrictive tubes on mine also.

Thanks
Gary

does teh k&n box or the PBJ box seal to the hood 100% ?

K&N box does, that is one reason I choose it. I talked with Dan Cragin, and the the trick for enough air is to have both the NACA duct (which I added to my hood) and a system to get the air over the top of the radiator, which I had added too. As for the underhood hot air, that is why I plan to put reflective heat shielding on the outside of the box AND between the radiator and the piece routing the cool air from the fascia.

As for "straigtening out the intake" I plan to make tubes shaped more like the those pictured in the red air box pictured... without the very pronounced "S" beond of the ones on the K&N.

 

[2000_Black_RT10]

If you find tubes to use for the k&n please let me know- I have the same setup and want to put less restrictive tubes on mine also.

Thanks
Gary

As for "straigtening out the intake" I plan to make tubes shaped more like the those pictured in the red air box pictured... without the very pronounced "S" beond of the ones on the K&N.

I've done my share of designing intake manifolds, runners, etc.. so bear with my opinions, I'm just sharing some past knowledge I've learned in engineering stuff from others, don't let me sound like some kind of dorky ****..

What is the diameter of the pipes? For instance, in order for a 3" diameter pipe to have efficient airflow the inside corner of the pipe bend radius (side view) should be a minimum of 1.5 X the pipe radius. Therefore if the inside of the bend radius is equal or greater than 2 1/4" there is no problem (i.e. if you can roll a 4 1/2" diameter pipe inside that inside corner you are ok), nor will you gain a measurable performance advantage to be concerned about with a straight pipe changeover. Bends aren't typically a concern if the if the minimum bend radius is ok, another factor is a change in the diameter along the length, such as the convoluted pipe, or bending a flexible pipe (why mandrel bent exhaust is better). This variable cross section diameter creates changes in pressure, creating turbulance, affecting velocity.

It's just an effort to save you the hassle if you are concerned about performance, but if you prefer the cosmetic appearance and just want to do it, always feel free to ignore my comments..

 

[SYNFULL]

Thanks for the info. I am going to try and figure it out (the radius)based on your formula.
Gary


I've done my share of designing intake manifolds, runners, etc.. so bear with my opinions, I'm just sharing some past knowledge I've learned in engineering stuff from others, don't let me sound like some kind of dorky ****..

What is the diameter of the pipes? For instance, in order for a 3" diameter pipe to have efficient airflow the inside corner of the pipe bend radius (side view) should be a minimum of 1.5 X the pipe radius. Therefore if the inside of the bend radius is equal or greater than 2 1/4" there is no problem (i.e. if you can roll a 4 1/2" diameter pipe inside that inside corner you are ok), nor will you gain a measurable performance advantage to be concerned about with a straight pipe changeover. Bends aren't typically a concern if the if the minimum bend radius is ok, another factor is a change in the diameter along the length, such as the convoluted pipe, or bending a flexible pipe (why mandrel bent exhaust is better). This variable cross section diameter creates changes in pressure, creating turbulance, affecting velocity.

It's just an effort to save you the hassle if you are concerned about performance, but if you prefer the cosmetic appearance and just want to do it, always feel free to ignore my comments..

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