Need some emergency emergency brake help

[Barrels]

I had the dreaded worn inner e-brake pad. Bought some new pads, took off the caliper, adjusted the piston, installed new pads...

Now there is a lot of play in the pads. I am having to work way too hard to tighten the bolts that hold the caliper on too. I stopped just to make sure I didn't break something. I tried working the e-brake handle to see if the caliper would self adjust. What am I doing wrong? Prompt replies would be helpful since I am kinda stuck at the shop until I get it back on right. Thanks.

 

[Barrels]

In case this happens to someone in the future...

I backed the piston off too far. You just need a pair of needle nose pliers with fine tips to turn it. Keep it out far enough that you have to push to slide the caliper back on when the new pads are installed.

 

[Big Al]

Thanks for the update/fix. I am planning on changing mine before spring.

 

[JonB]

NOTE TO OTHER SRT/10 OWNERS


This thread is yet ANOTHER ALERT to check the INNER, REAR E-BRAKE PAD. When you begin to hear brake-squeel it is probably too late, and you have ruined the rear rorors whilst the rear inner pads, hidden from view, were slowly dragging themselves to a premature death of both pad and rotor.

One way to diagnose, is to see if your REAR ROTORS seem WARM after a normal drive.... Normal for the fronts to seem warm, but the rears are seldom as warm as the fronts, after street driving. UNLESS THE E-PAD IS DRAGGING.....

It is a CHEAP FIX if you catch it before its too late. More common on cars that are tracked, but NOT a track-rat-only problem.


JonB ~~~~:<~

 

[ViperGeorge]

E brake should self adjust by applying brake multiple times. That's what is says in the manual.

 

[ROCKET62]

So what is the fix for the problem? Seems to me that if you just replace the pad without fixing the cause, you'll be in the same situation down the road?

 

[ViperGeorge]

I have been in contact with an SRT Viper engineer about this. The engineer thought it was related to hub deflection from tracking the car. After having just changed mine and with postings about this happening to non-tracked Vipers I believe the problem relates to the actuator cable putting too much pressure on the inside of the Ebrake caliper and is not due to hub deflection from tracking. Tom Sessions posted about this and I believe he is correct. On my 08 the cable kind of hangs down a bit as compared to my 09 ACR. The ACR cable seems to go straighter to the caliper. When you pop the caliper off you can see that the cable applies quite a bit of pressure on the caliper. My 08 has not had the problem and I have >15K miles on it. The ACR had 7K when the inner pad was shot. Had just a wafer thin piece of lining left. I'm lucky I didn't trash my rotors.

I will continue to ask my contact at SRT about this. To me it seems like something is wrong with the design. Anyone with an Gen 4 SHOULD CHECK THE INNER PADS ON THE E BRAKE!!!!

 

[JonB]

E brake should self adjust by applying brake multiple times. That's what is says in the manual.

Some drivers habitually "set the brake" after every drive. And leave it set for days-weeks, even in the gaerage! The more you USE the E-brake, the tighter it adjusts. ie The more you cycle the handle, the tighter it adjusts. I believe this would make it MORE likely to drag. I am one of those drivers who SELDOM uses the Emergency Brake. Almost never. I have not had the problem, but many owners have....

Not having an emergency? Not on a slope? Why use the E-Brake?

JonB ~~~~:<~

 

[bluesrt]

yes and useing the e-brake on a hot rotor will warp it- so now what do i do on a hill when my rotors are hot?

 

[JonB]

I did say "SELDOM".... Its not the rare use that heeps the pistons too tight...its the frequent use.

[Are there really hills in the gateway region !? ]

The above is about SRT E-calipers........The Year Matters: if you own a 92-00, my advice is to FREQUENTLY operate the E-brake, especially on cars that are tracked. The dual-purpose caliper of 92-00 only, also self-adjusts tighter upon E-brake activation, and it can actually add a bit of rear bite bias... BEFORE every 96GTS track sesson I try and remember to cycle my GTS E-brake 10 times or so ! That, and Tom's Upgrade, adds noticable rear bias to 92-00

JonB ~~~~:<~

 

[JonB]

REMINDER: emergency brake help

SRT-10 Owners, an off-season reminder to crawl under and check Your INNER SRT10 E-brake pads and the INNER face of your rear SRT10 rotors. Since this thread 2 mos ago, I have seen 4 more owners with this hidden-problem, who have ruined, or severly-worn their rear pads and/or rotors. Several other threads also highlight this problem.

If you catch the problem BEFORE it eats your rear rotors further, the fix is cheap---about $60 for the inner 2 pads..........Note: If you find ~50% WORN inner E-pads, simply SWAP THEM with the thicker outer pad. (No Cost for pads!) But do lube the cable actuator and caliper to minimize this problem.

If you wait til the inner rotor is ruined, you have to replace 2-4 pads AND the ruined rotors, [which can be very expensive on an ACR.] If the inner E-pad goes metal-to-metal it also ruins the PRIMARY inner brake pad!

Bottom-line: Take a moment to check your INNER E-pads before rather than later......

 

[swexlin]

Re: REMINDER: emergency brake help

Could you post a close up pic for us mechanically challanged? I wouldn't know an e-brake pad from a **** pad!

Thanks.

 

[swexlin]

Re: REMINDER: emergency brake help

Could you post a close up pic for us mechanically challanged? I wouldn't know an e-brake pad from a **** pad!

Thanks.

I guess I should clarify. If someone has a pic of the inner rotor/e-brake combo, and what I should look for, that would be great. I've posted a couple times over the last year in "brake squeal" threads, and most tell me that some is normal. When my car was inspected last May, everything checked out. Here in PA, all four wheels are pulled and brakes/rotors checked. However, in the 2000 miles that I've put on since then, it seems a little worse. Maybe my imagination, maybe not, which is why I'd like to see a pic.

Thanks,

 

[Hirkophoto]

the simple fix is check your pads replace if necessary and don't use the E brake. Every time you pull the e brake up it adjusts the pads in. This keeps the pad right on the rotor. So only use it when completely needed and you will have no issues!

 

[swexlin]

Where I live is very hilly - even many parking lots have slight slopes, so I almost always use brake - leaving a car in gear really is not secure enough.

 

[lmcgrew79]

There is also a procedure that takes all the tension off the cables and disable the automatic tensioner. Remove the center console, pull lever up, shove down center spring between lever or pull cable to release pressure it is tight, insert punch or small screw driver in the left side of the lever in the hole. Just replaced mine with new pads from jon. Works great.

 

[swexlin]

But the e-brake still works when applied after that procedure?

 

[slysnake]

Good thread for me. lots of information I didn't know.

 

[02 Graphite GTS]

Re: REMINDER: emergency brake help

I guess I should clarify. If someone has a pic of the inner rotor/e-brake combo, and what I should look for, that would be great. I've posted a couple times over the last year in "brake squeal" threads, and most tell me that some is normal. When my car was inspected last May, everything checked out. Here in PA, all four wheels are pulled and brakes/rotors checked. However, in the 2000 miles that I've put on since then, it seems a little worse. Maybe my imagination, maybe not, which is why I'd like to see a pic.

Thanks,

Not sure if this is the picture you are asking for...

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[JonB]

See how that inner pad is about half as thick as the outer? This is exactly what we need to be aware of. That inner is on the way to being used up. When the miles on the car doubles, it will be shot. And that is an ACR Rotor, so it could get expensive if it scores the rotor.

One of the easy ways to check is a slow, coasting roll backwards....allow it to come to an unassisted stop.

But does it "seem" like the SRT is wanting to threshold-stop prematurely, as if the brakes are on just a bit? This could be the inner E-pad dragging....

What you could do relatively soon on this car is swap the E-pads, inner-to-outer and visa-versa. That will prolong the live of the Epads.

 

[swexlin]

Thanks Jon for the explanation of the photo. I must be THICK, because I still don't see any pads in that photo. But, I'll take your word for it, and try the backwards rolling trick! I have no access to a lift to get the car on.

 

[ViperGeorge]

Thanks Jon for the explanation of the photo. I must be THICK, because I still don't see any pads in that photo. But, I'll take your word for it, and try the backwards rolling trick! I have no access to a lift to get the car on.

Look at the last picture. You will see the edge of the rotor in the center of the caliper. There is a pin that runs left to right in the picture through the center of the caliper. It goes through the "ears" on the brake pads. There is a spring clip at either end of the pin that you can see in the picture. Notice the thickness of the ears that the pin passes through, this is the thickness of the pad backing plate. Now if you look down the inside edge of this backing plate towards the rotor's outside and inside surface (the flat part of the rotor that the brake pads rub against which is edge on in the picture) you will see the pad material. If you look closely you will see that the pad on the right side of the picture (the inside pad) is thinner than the pad on the left side of the picture (the outside pad). See how the backing plate on the right is closer to the rotor's surface than the backing plate on the left? This clearly shows the inside pad is wearing faster than the outside pad. There is also a cable on the right side of the caliper although it is not in the picture. The cable activates the caliper and applies the Ebrake. This cable, in my opinion, is placing too much pressure on the inside of the caliper forcing the inside pad harder against the rotor. I believe this is at least partially responsible for the added wear.

 

[3whitevipers]

I have a 2005 and a 2010 that I never use the e-brake on. Should I just disconnect the e-brake all together and solve the problem?--Dave

 

[swexlin]

Look at the last picture. You will see the edge of the rotor in the center of the caliper. There is a pin that runs left to right in the picture through the center of the caliper. It goes through the "ears" on the brake pads. There is a spring clip at either end of the pin that you can see in the picture. Notice the thickness of the ears that the pin passes through, this is the thickness of the pad backing plate. Now if you look down the inside edge of this backing plate towards the rotor's outside and inside surface (the flat part of the rotor that the brake pads rub against which is edge on in the picture) you will see the pad material. If you look closely you will see that the pad on the right side of the picture (the inside pad) is thinner than the pad on the left side of the picture (the outside pad). See how the backing plate on the right is closer to the rotor's surface than the backing plate on the left? This clearly shows the inside pad is wearing faster than the outside pad. There is also a cable on the right side of the caliper although it is not in the picture. The cable activates the caliper and applies the Ebrake. This cable, in my opinion, is placing too much pressure on the inside of the caliper forcing the inside pad harder against the rotor. I believe this is at least partially responsible for the added wear.

Thank you , NOW I understand!

 

[JonB]

Thanks GB.........when you look at brake pads as often as you and I do, we can ASSume everyone sees the same.

Please understand that I do not want to shouting "fire" when there is only a hint of smoke. But to ignore this "out of view" ideosyncracy on SRT10-Only can have costly results.

If you dont E-brake (I seldom do) you probably wont have any isue. And in some states you MUST have a working E-brake to pass inspections for licensing. And you could have an emergency! So dont disconnect it...

JonB

 

[JonB]

Thanks Jon for the explanation of the photo. I must be THICK, because I still don't see any pads in that photo. But, I'll take your word for it, and try the backwards rolling trick! I have no access to a lift to get the car on.

But are you THICKer on the inside ?!?!?


You just need to visualize the E-caliper from the inside of the rotor...not mandatory to have a lift, but a Jack / Wheel-off helps a lot!

 

[3whitevipers]

JonB
Once again you help all of us--Thanks so much for being such a valuable member of the VCA--I always pay particular attention to any post that you make--Thanks again--Dave

 

[swexlin]

JonB
Once again you help all of us--Thanks so much for being such a valuable member of the VCA--I always pay particular attention to any post that you make--Thanks again--Dave

Amen to that. Good advice to us all.

 

[labtec]

Re: REMINDER: emergency brake help

Hmmm.... that picture looks just like mine when I removed the drivers side today Ordered pads from the stealer today, pick up tomorrow

 

[Sonoman]

There is also a procedure that takes all the tension off the cables and disables the automatic tensioner. Remove the center console, pull lever up, shove down center spring between lever or pull cable to release pressure it is tight, insert punch or small screw driver in the left side of the lever in the hole. Just replaced mine with new pads from jon. Works great.

Anyone else tried this procedure for disabling the automatic e-brake tensioner? I'm tired of the e-brake dragging all the time on the inner pads. Above instructions are a little sketchy, would like to hear from anyone who has done this!