DholiRaja209
Enthusiast
Very impressive numbers Steve! And the setup looks amazing!!
Very impressive numbers Steve! And the setup looks amazing!!
Are you doing installs also or just selling the kit?
Nice Progress !
Steve,
I've been following this post for a while nowand am glad to see you're finally get some numbers for your system, congrats!
I'm a potentially buyer for this system and I'mfamiliar with the 2nd and 3rd Gen Vipers.
I have some questions about the system which I've beenmaking notes of as the thread has been progressing that I am sureyou can answer for me and other prospective buyers about how some of thedesign and layout of this system jives with what we're given fromDodge.
1. Do you have the dyno graph's for the 6 PSI 676RWHP pull and then the 8 PSI pull for 772 RWHP?
2. In the first picture, you have some flexible ducting fromthe turbo to the crossover pipe. Will the production kit have this as well orwill you have mandrell bent fabricated piping there? How much heat do you thinkwill be transmitted to the differential case and fluid, CV shafts bushings andbearings from the exhaust pipes as it passes from the turbo exhaust to thecrossover pipe? Will you supply some kind of an O2 wire extension kit to movethe O2's to the rear of the car like in the picture? How will the extra lengthaffect response time of the O2's?
3. Moving our way to the front of the car, how will you keepthe rubber bushings from the swaybar mounts from burning up with theturbo mounts being bolted to the frame where the swaybar mounts bolt to theframe rails in stock from? Also, will the turbo exhaust pipe add a good amountof heat to the swaybar and transmit more heat to the swaybarbushing?
4. Will spacing the swaybar down cause any wheel clearanceissues or rear end geomerty handling issues?
5. Where the exhaust piping isgoing to the turbo past the rear lower control arm pickup point, how far awayis the hot pipe from the rubber bushing there? I'm concerned that maybe thissystem will melt the control arm rubber bushings? Maybe you have goodclearance, but the shot from below does not give the proper depth perception tosee what I am asking for. Please post some pics to get a better ideaof this.
How does the suspension's up and downmovement along with the flex of the exhaust system change the clearancebetween the hot pipe? Also, what about the emergency brake cables? What will bedone to protect them from melting and how does the spacing down of the sawybaraffect the emergency brake movement, engagement and clamping power?
6. How much of the rear wheel well battery box needto be modified to give clearance for the hot pipes to the turbos and how will it beheat shielded to not melt the plastic? How will a fabrication 'noob' likemyself know how much to cut out? Will you provide some kind of template foreach side? Does the heat from the hot pipeshave any chance to melt the rear bumper? I know you have been driving around alot without the bumper, so I would like to know how many miles you have drivenwith everything in place to make sure this will be safe for anybody purchasingyour system. Some pictures of how you have accomplished this would be greatlyappreciated. Modifications like this on cars in the general sense look cool,but the practical aspect of all the little details to make this function likestock are sometimes more difficult than they might seem on the surface. Theysay the devil is in the details
7. How will a fabricating 'noob' like myself be able to cutthe battery box mount off the upper frame rail cleanly and how will I be ableto return the car to stock if I decide to sell the car later on with thebattery mount cut off? Will there be an installation video showing how to dothis? Will you provide some kind of battery mount re-attachment kit for lateron? Can you show some pics of how you have got the battery mounted atthis time? Is this how it will be for buyers of this system? Will it be in thetrunk or will it be in the bumper area? Will I still be able to put my golf bagin the rear hatch area and be able to close the hatch? LOL! People may laugh,but these are practical questions!
8. What is the flow rate for the water pump for the air towater IC? How does it turn on? Will you include a wiring diagram for wiring upthe pump and the boost-a-pump?
9. In the second and third picture, where the transmissionmeets the bell housing, it looks like the silicone coupler and piping aretoo bulky to install the driveshaft cover because they will be below theframe rails. Is that just the picture, or can you stuff that pipe in thereenough to install the cover. How does the movement of the engines andtransmissions rubber mounts affect the clearance of these areas of the piping?Will you supply the kit with solid motor and transmission mounts to minimizethis?
10. Final question. When I was doing a oil change recently,I treid to put a piece of 2" piping through the same spot where you runyour 2.5 or 3 inch pipe through the middle of the steering rack to theintercooler and I could not get it to fit.
Can you show a picture of how much needs to be cut out ofthe power steering rack support piece of the frame? This is the only part thatI cannot figure out how I could do the installation for because there is noroom without a lot of cutting. Over the years, I have noticed how Heffner andUR had the pipes from the intercoolers coming more from the outside coming in. Maybe that's why. Hope these questions and concerns are not too overwhelming...
Look forward to your reply.
Post up a dyno graph.
Steve,
That’s not a great first impression from your remarks,the questions I ask are anything that can be seen looking at those threepictures on post number 250 by you that are the most current versions of yourkit on May 10, 2012. If you have changed a lot of the hot piping to the turbosand how they mount near the sawybar mount since that date so pleaseforward pictures.
From following the pictures you have posted on this threadfrom the beginnning to now, everybody can see you changed the number ofintercoolers and the location of the intercooler, made larger piping fromthe back to the front and routed the exhaust from the rear to thecrossover pipe to come out the side sill. Otherwise, all the turbomounting from the beginning pictures in this thread is the same as isall the hot piping to the turbos. That is why I ask the questions.
After looking at my SRT, I tried to follow your installationbased on all the detailed pics you have posted along the way. I am just curiousif you can answer my questions to my satisfaction and post the pictures I askedfor so I can get a better idea if your system is right for my Viper. I've likedthe idea of placing the turbos in the back since I saw the STS rear mountvideo in the past and with the space limitiations under the hood of the SRT. When you startedthis thread, I considered your kit as a possible option. I’m sure you haveit all figured out and hopefully you’ll be able to answer my questions so I can make a decision on my Viper. Thank you.
:lol: Steve is such a hack.
What's with the hating? Let's see pics of the turbo system you've developed? Is there something we're missing here? Hell most big name tuner cars are hacked to s#it for the sake of time and cost reducing purposes! Havent you heard, The fastest way around a turn is a straight line
Hating? That's funny. Why would I want to develop something when there are so many proven systems out there? <<<rhetorical
The phrase "work smarter, not harder" comes to mind.
I've owned a Heffner TT and had 2 different RSI TT installs on two different cars.
Haven't you heard? You don't know squat. And this unproven moving target of a TT kit, looks like Ebay trash from any angle you force yourself to look at it.
Hating? That's funny. Why would I want to develop something when there are so many proven systems out there? <<<rhetorical
The phrase "work smarter, not harder" comes to mind.
I've owned a Heffner TT and had 2 different RSI TT installs on two different cars.
Haven't you heard? You don't know squat. And this unproven moving target of a TT kit, looks like Ebay trash from any angle you force yourself to look at it.