Today I picked up the ACR at the dealer after it had a Mopar PCM,Belanger headers, High flows; upon driving home I was marveling at how much they improved ride/handling and shifting over the Gen 3; about 7 miles into my 15 mile ride home I noticed that the shifting became more difficult-quickly noticing that clutch was mushing with little or no resistance; the feeling when bleeding the brakes. By the time I got home it was diffult to put in gear. At the driveway I started it in first and the car had no clutch at all. I checked clutch fluid and there was no apparent sign of leaks....after allowing the car to cool off (20 minutes) and playing with the pedal adjustments it seemed to have resistance. I started the car and was able to back out and put into first gear and drive forward. Has anyone had a similar problem?? would hate to have it trucked back to the dealer...also was the remote lock for the rear deck-lid removed on the ACRs...when I click the remote the lights flash but the deck does not release..I need to open it with the key.......any feedback will be appreciated....
New ACR Clutch Problem
- Thread starter Art 138
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Clutch issue sounds like the hydraulic clutch lines need to be bled - not uncommon.
Open the rear hatch under the trunk lip above the license plate by pressing upward on a rubber switch cover, very cool compared to earlier models. Key fob no longer opens hatch.
Dan
Open the rear hatch under the trunk lip above the license plate by pressing upward on a rubber switch cover, very cool compared to earlier models. Key fob no longer opens hatch.
Dan
Martin
Enthusiast
Sounds like you are having the same clutch problem several people around here have had... There were a number of people that had to bleed the clutch and then it was fine, and a few that had some really bad problem that required parts replacement. Thought it was only happening to '08 cars, but it looks like that might not be the case.
Martin
Enthusiast
The bleed is pretty easy, and I personally like using the Castrol GT LMA fluid - but I'm sure others will have different opinions. If the car isn't tracked, something like Motul 600 is probably overkill as a clutch fluid, and it likes to absorb water - so has to be changed more often than the Castrol stuff.
dtenney
Enthusiast
Since your Belanger headers radiate more heat than stock manifolds I think you are boiling the fluid in your clutch line. You could try wrapping the line or change to a fluid with higher boiling point. I would guess the problem is worse in traffic where air cannot flow over the engine bay. Might even help to turn the AC on full blast to kick the fans on and help extract the heat.
-David
-David
ASPIRATIONS
Enthusiast
I know its off subject but did I miss the pics..???? If not please post some up...Kevin
Once I get the Clutch issue resolved and the beast cleaned up - yes time for pics...
Martin
Enthusiast
Definitely let us know what's up with the clutch issue. I've got an ACR that I'll be picking up once I'm back from a biz trip, and I was thinking about taking it on a long drive soon thereafter. If the clutches are still getting delivered with entrained air, I'll have them bleed it out just to be sure. I don't want to get stuck in BFE and have to rely on AAA's flatbed to get it to a dealer - that's a quick way to ruin the splitter on the car...
vipernut94
Enthusiast
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I agree with everyone that it sounds like you should bleed the clutch fluid. However, I can't imagine that the headers are causing the fluid to boil, under normal driving conditions. I have the same mods that you do, and I havn't had any problems with my clutch (even at the track). I'm guessing that there was some air in the line from the factory, and a bleed will fix your problem.
F8L SNK
Enthusiast
Chances are that it is NOT the headers boiling the fluid. This is a VERY common problem from what I have read and experience on the 08 and newer cars. I did not bleed my clutch in the traditional sense. I pumped the pedal about 20 times and the problem went away completely. I do this with the lid off of the reservoir for the fluid.
I know that this may not seem right to some, but try it first. If it doesn't work what have you lost out on?
Good luck and the car is awesome!!!!
I know that this may not seem right to some, but try it first. If it doesn't work what have you lost out on?
Good luck and the car is awesome!!!!
dtenney
Enthusiast
I agree it cannot hurt to try pumping the clutch pedal with the cap off in case there is air in the system. I was under the impression the problem started when the headers were installed and got better as the car cooled off.
Reference these threads for heat issue related to headers and clutch fluid:
See reply#19
http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/622563-belanger-headers-corsa-belanger-muffler.html
See reply#15 and below
http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/621215-belanger-headers.html
-David
Reference these threads for heat issue related to headers and clutch fluid:
See reply#19
http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/622563-belanger-headers-corsa-belanger-muffler.html
See reply#15 and below
http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/621215-belanger-headers.html
-David
EZ 2B Green
Enthusiast
I have some posts on this issue that I think you will find helpful. Try the search feature using my user name. It sounds exactly like what I experienced on my 08. Bleed it and and all will be well. Good luck!
BennyBad
Enthusiast
art, take it back to mark and let him do it for you, will take about 10 min. if you dont feel safe driving it there call him on his cell and he will come to you. i saw your car friday and it is nice
2MANYTOYS
Enthusiast
Let the dealer fix it. It is fairly common on the ACR's. I have a friend here in town that has the same issue.
ViperGeorge
Enthusiast
Factory techs told my Viper tech to bleed the clutch and use Dot 4 fluid, not Dot 3 as indicated on Clutch reservoir cap. No problems since. I have an 08 by the way.
F8L SNK
Enthusiast
The bleed screw is on the side of the transmission. It is only accessible from under the car. Unless you really want to get under the car yourself, take it back to the dealer like others have said.
If you are that close to Woodhouse or another reputable shop this would be great. I really think you will be fine by pumping the pedal. Please post up if it works or not.
If you are that close to Woodhouse or another reputable shop this would be great. I really think you will be fine by pumping the pedal. Please post up if it works or not.
dtenney
Enthusiast
Before I traded my C6Z06 for the ACR Viper I used to follow Ranger's procedure to keep my clutch fluid clean. See link:Clutch_Care
Basically, involves using the a syringe to remove old fluid from reservoir, fill with new fluid, pump pedal, and repeat.
I was always surprised by how quickly the Z06 could dirty clutch fluid, the Viper clutch fluid stays much cleaner.
-David
jk
Enthusiast
Had this same problem in my '09 with Belangers. Took it to the dealer who bled clutch but was told there was no air evident in the system. Ended up heat wrapping the clutch line where it is near the headers and moving it slightly away from the header by zip tying. No problems since.
I ran by Doug Levin's shop and he gave me some heat wrap...Got under the car at home and moved the clutch line as far away as possible...he suspected the fluid was boiling because the clutch worked when the car cooled down....anyway tried the pumping without the filler cap.....I also insulated as much of the wiring as possible near the headers to include the connectors; put some thermal wrap around the starter...put boot protectors around the spark plugs,inconel heat shields and went for a 30 minute ride with no issues.....anyway thanks to all, and if it does not rain tomorrow night will take it for the monthly VCA group meet...
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