VicTxV10
Enthusiast
After buying a kit like this, what would be the reason, if any, to ever upgrade to a high end Moton or KW set?
After buying a kit like this, what would be the reason, if any, to ever upgrade to a high end Moton or KW set?
If you are serious then I ill share the following
This system "only" lowers the gal and will also likely change the shock dynamics if lowered even though slightly in an adverse way whereas Koni's, Moton's, Penske's etc have completely different internals, pistons, valves,, seals, shafts, as well as the fluid and gas within the custom shock bodies themselves as such offer not only more ride/handling options but even more so operate better; then add to this the systems as shared above can be serviced whereas these are tossed once they complete their service life
Takes care
Shadowman
Cool, thanks for the info! I'm sort of new to all this Viper upgrades.
After buying a kit like this, what would be the reason, if any, to ever upgrade to a high end Moton or KW set?
GTS-R-----I have the eibach street kit now on the car WITHOUT caps. I feel the ride is bouncy and stiff (just like it was on the stock springs in my opinon).
Question I have is by going with your kit i'm going to think that the ride would be the same correct?
(I have never had adjustable suspension before so) is this trial and error to get the height where you want it? Meaning spin it up/down and count the treads and do it on the other side? if you know what i mean?
Thanks
The stock shocks are designed to work at the stock ride height and with the stock springs. If you make changes to either the control ability of them are changed and generally not for the better. Even if you are lowering the center of gravity I would challenge anyone to prove the handling has "improved" The response might seen quicker but that is probably from the contact with a bump stop and instantaneous rate increase. This same trait will be horrible in a high speed condition. Do this to lower ONLY! it will not improve perceived performance.
But obviously this is just my opinion...
I was hoping to hear Mark's response to your reply. I am not looking to start any beefs, because quite frankly, Mark's the finest the community has to offer. But if Mark says 'no' to something then I go his way. This really did look like a great inexpensive setup, relatively speaking. But if Mark thinks its not a good idea, I can't go against Mark.
Honestly was looking for honest straight forward dialogue with no hard feelings either way, with clarity on why it isnt a good idea, or how much utility one really can get out of this setup before having to go the full race proven shocks.
Maybe because it seems to have gotten moved from original forum, it lost its viewers.
Jon
The travel on yours will not be as indicated because the cap and stack will contact before the end of the piston rod at the top.
Mark,
The Cap is honed out so the shock travels all the way to the inner reached of the silver cap on top, the only resistance there is the rubber bump stop. The amount of cornering force to compress the much heavier than stock springs will make the chance of that happening a lot less than running with stock springs or with the Eibach street Kit which I have heard many say gets incredibly out of whack at high speeds.
I have tested this kit for travel with the wheels off and jacked the suspension to the point of bottoming out to actually see how far it goes and the travel goes the entire distance. Now that you mention though, the bottom of the cap on the others gets in the way of the travel when you look at the Moton cap and the KW cap. I have over exaggerated the actual travel of the Moton and KW set up as the cap on those two setups does prevent travel of the shock body top.
I think the loads on cornering would need to be very significant against the springs of this spring rate (500F/800R) to cause a bottoming out and the forces would be similar to those needed to bottom out a set of Motons as well.
I do fail to see how this cannot "handle" better than stock. Naturally shocks that are made to operate at the lower height settings will "handle" better that this set up when at the height they are made to perform at but the fact that you can corner weight and ride lower and stiffer should increase handling.
What is the ride height that the Moton Clubs sports are made to optimally operate at?
Like I said I hope you sell a lot of them. There is no way that the gold spring seat on the top of yours would not contact the shock it self well before the indicated travel limits. The Moton will travel all the way down to the indicated top. The difference once again is that the stock shock is not capable of controlling a increased spring rate especially when you are effectively cutting it's normal travel in half.
The Moton and KW's are DESIGNED to handle various higher rate springs with the usable rebound and compression adjustments available, they are also built to have the valving work through the range of any adjustment since that is what they were designed to do unlike the stock set up. They are also designed to work with small travel limits and have effective control, once again the stock one are not, this is why the lowering by springs or your product and springs will result in the same driving characteristics but may even bounce more because the shock can't control the higher rate spring that the Pro Kit from Eibach.
This was not meant to be an attack on you or this product just information on the results that can happen when the stock system is modified. If it was that easy then Dodge would have probably offered it as it is obviously a simple design change.
FWIW only
Regards,
So what about Gen4 cars that don't have adjustable shocks?
Keep us posted as to when this is available for Gen 2.
Folks, I am an interested, unbiased observer with previous experience.
I have already done this - putting threaded sleeves over my stock shocks, lower the car, put stiffer springs on the car. Look in my photo gallery and you will see images I put up years ago, then search some old posts about spring rates and see that I use what are essentially ACR rates of 550 front and 800 rear. It looks like GTS-R 001 is commercializing the concept.
So my observations are:
1) You can lower the car, obviously.
2) You can change the handling by shifting the roll stiffness to front or rear. If you want the car loose or tight, you can do that.
3) The OEM Konis are adjustable for rebound. My view is that most people underestimate the effect of this - it's easy to understand stiffer springs, but harder to think through stiffer shocks. It makes a bigger difference than you think and is effective. Are the OEM shocks as versatile as "top tier" shocks- no. But since the OEM adjustment is full soft, I went full stiff on the front, half in the rear. Makes a big difference.
4) With a stiffer sprung car, for the same side load, the suspension travels less and the crazy camber alignments are not needed. Think about it - if there were no lean at all, the tires can be set straight up. I have seen both sides of this experiment and oddly, with stiffer springs, the tires seem to wear more evenly.
5) Yes, I hit the bump stops because my car is too low. My fault. However, simplistically, if the spring rate is double and the pothole is the same size, the travel should be half? Be reasonable in your drop and spring stiffness and hitting the stops should be as rare as it is now.
Once installed, springs can be changed easily. A pair of springs is what, less than $200? If you don't like the ride or handling, you can change it! Another huge plus is if you corner weight the car (don't just get the ruler and measure fender height) your braking will be excellent! You can set both front wheel loads to be equal and you will eliminate the RF wheel lock up and get both fronts to participate in slowing the car.
Overall opinion is that this kit is like the 40mm brakes vs. big brake kit debate. It is 20% of the cost and you get 80% or 90% of the benefits. Just close your eyes as to what it may look like.
Flame away, folks, but my fugly green Gen 1 with home-built threaded shocks handily beat all newer Vipers in every autocross event I have ever attended. In back to back runs with my car and newer Vipers (when the VCA and Dodge brought the yellow movie cars to the regional events) I was several seconds quicker in my car than the new ones. I'm close to a one-minute lap at Lime Rock on Kumhos. (Engine is mild; 405/480 rear wheel on dyno) So I believe this to be a good practical deal, demonstrated by putting my money in my mouth even before GTS-R 001 decided to offer the kit.
PS: Dodge could not easily have offered this because the OEM Koni spring seats on Gen 1 and 2 are larger diameter than the threaded sleeve would be. Dodge would have had to spec a different shock. I'm curious how the Gen 1/2 kit will work.
Note to self: make deal with GTS-R 001 to offer spring kit + 40mm brake combo and create junior ACR package. Maybe call it AXR for autocross racer...
Everyone I showed this too says it is just an expensive way to lower the car wtih the same performance as just an eibach setup.
Steve...have any of these left?
Lots and Lots.