New Corsa and Hi Flow Cat Installation + Brakes

[Vipersrule]

A couple of quick questions for the "experts" out there. The information provided by this board has been "Fantastic" - Thanks a million.

Question 1: High Flow Cats?
I just finished putting on the Corsa 3" exhaust + high flow cats. It only took me about 4 hours to cut off the old cats, and install the new system. I just need to tighted all the bolts and get the new cats welded. (I decided to go with welding versus just clamps on the cat) By the way, the illustration for the Corsa install was GREAT - it helped a lot for a first timer......

The cat fit pretty tight without a clamp, however, I'm pretty sure that I am "probably" going to throw a code on the way to the muffler shop to get the cats welded. Can the Auto store guys just reset the code like any other car? I.E. I've done it on my truck several times, but is it the same on the Viper or do I have to go pay the "ridiculus" fee charged by auto places to just hook the d#$@ thing up to a analyser?

Qustion 2: Rear Brakes?
The rear brake tool is on back order, but I want to get my pads switched out. Can the rear brakes be done without the tool? If so, any suggestions to make it easier?

Thanks a million - the information is highly appreciated......

 

[jimandela]

nice mods!

from what i understand you need the tool.
ebc greens?

 

[Vipersrule]

nice mods!

from what i understand you need the tool.
ebc greens?

Yup.

I don't want to do just the fronts, so I guess I'll wait for the tool. I'll have the chrome smooth tubes and filters on this Friday. I can't wait to "fire" her up............

I also see why everyone talks about "fixing" the sheet metal screws on the side sills. You'd think Dodge would have done a little better on that one....

 

[KenH]

I replaced my brakes a few months ago on my '01 and you will definitely want to get the tool for the rear. Not hard with the tool, but I would be concerned about damaging the plungers without it. I got mine from PartsRack.

I don't think you'll throw a code with your exhaust install, but if you do, it can be reset with any standard OBDII compatible code box.

--- Ken

 

[Vipersrule]

.... you will definitely want to get the tool for the rear. Not hard with the tool, but I would be concerned about damaging the plungers without it. I got mine from PartsRack.

Thanks Ken, Got everything through Parts Rack. I figured it was a OBCII, my only concern was having to have a special connection or something. Otherwise you can just go down to AutoZone and they do it for free.....

 

[HOGDEALER]

What is the Tool Number for the Brakes? Is this a Mopar Tool?

 

[Vipersrule]

What is the Tool Number for the Brakes? Is this a Mopar Tool?

My understanding is that it is a standard Dodge brake tool for disc brakes - not anything special for the Viper. They just tend to be back ordered a lot - as in my case. JonB (PartsRack) has the number - I'd have to go through my old e-mail to find it.

 

[Fast Viper Dan]

You may want the tool. I have changed the pads on my 99 GTS
several times (10+-). I use needle nose pliers to screw in the piston. Not a big deal.If you use needle nose pliers just take your time, apply presser and hold it, the piston turns slowly do to the fluid behind it. I think it turns counter clockwise to send it back in? You'll find out real qwick.
It's a real good idea to sand the rotors with some 120 emery cloth or sand paper. If you replace your pads with a differnt type you will start to feel the two types of reson bonding together on the rotor. That will cause a sticky spot and you'll feel it in the peddle.
Good Luck,
Dan

 

[Vipersrule]

I guess I just don't understand the back calipers. It's a screw type plunger? I'll look closely at my service manual tonight. I've done disc brakes, but usually once you compress the plunger it stays that way.

Does the back plunger "spring" out when you take it off the rotor?

I've got the sand paper for the rotors, I had already planned to sand them off.

I just wanted to change both the front and rear at the same time, but the rear caliper worries me just a little - just because I'm unfamiliar with it.

 

[Janni]

Pre-ABS cars, you can use the needle nose plier technique for screwing the piston back in. On ABS cars, you definitely WANT the tool, because the caliper comes free of the car and you cannot easily use pliers and hold the caliper at the same time. Tool also available from Nancy Shanno at Woodhouse. It's a cheapie part that makes the job MUCH easier.

 

[ntmatter]

For the rear calipers (on my 98) I've always just used needle-nose pliers. An additional trick is to install and loosen the speed bleeders, so that when I screw in the piston the fluid only pushes out the brake ******. This makes it so that you can screw in the piston with a few easy turns, rather than trying to shove the fluid all the way back up to the front reservoir.

 

[LPE 383]

thats what I do also.