Nitrous Express Install Walkthrough (link w/ pics)

[ntmatter]

I put together a little essay on installing a NX kit on my GTS. The below link has some lessons learned and pictures, and pretty much covers the nitty-gritty that I learned while trying to do this myself. Enjoy:

http://www.boydtech.com/personal

 

[KenH]

Good info. You should have Vipermad add this to the illustrated upgrades section.

--- Ken

 

[Daffy Duck Viper]

Wow. You didn't mess around with that. Nice job. I only scanned through it, but that was enough to see you spent a respectable amount of time putting that together. That most definitely should be added to the illustrated upgrades section of the VCA.

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[jcaspar1]

Very nice write-up. You are getting me thinking about N20!

 

[Jack B]

Very nice and you are right you shouldn't have the bottle and nos on a switch that is always hot. If you do a search you will find a thread to a NOS brand system installed on a sport compact which accidently had the bottle heater turned on over-night (I don't know why the thermostat didn't turn it off), the results were the total loss of the car and major damage to the garage.

The photo below is one way to get power to the NOS system only when the car is running, not just the key on.

 

[Snakester]

Thanks Andy for such a thorough write-up. I am going to be installing a NX setup in my car very soon, and your pics will be very helpful. I am familiar with doing the NX install, because I did it on my last Corvette, but seeing the differences with the Viper is very helpful.

About having the switches and bottle warmer always on, it shouldn't be a problem. Unlike the NOS bottle warmers, the NX system has a cool setup that is activated by pressure, rather than being always on.

Interesting that you only got an extra 22RWHP from the extra 50 shot jetting. Still 522RWHP must be pretty nice, especially with the extra torque.

-Dean

 

[Supercharged Vipermad]

I will contact Andy for permission to add to the Illustrated Instructions. Not that I have time to do it right now ( )....but my life will be normal again soon...I hope! Great job Andy!

 

[George Murray]

Andy - I read your instructions with great interest. I've been considering nitrous for my GTS.

I remember my first nitrous install in 1977 on a '73 Charger SE 440. I used electrical tape, zip ties, twine, and anything else handy to mount the components. The kit (can't remember the brand) didn't have enough braided steel line to go to the trunk, so I mounted the bottle in the (large) gap between the front bumper and radiator! I wish I had pictures of that ghetto-a$$ install...

It worked, somehow. Occasionally I swapped the whole setup to the family '72 Town & Country station wagon (440) and made some extra cash street racing the local Chevy punks. I never raised the hood. Nitrous was rare in those days, at least in my 'hood (Wash. DC), and I didn't want the secret to get out.

Thanks for the great post! George

 

[Andrew2KRT10]

Andy:
Great write up, from what I skimmed. I did not read the whole thing....went through quick, so some of my comments might be redundant.

Boy, am I glad I had someone do mine.

Total cost to me was 2800 from East Coast Supercharging in south Jersey. Did a very nice, neat job. Used my ashtray for the switches, so there are no cuts into the panels....looks like you did the same. Ended up with 553 rwhp, 675 torque.
I did not have to loose my spare and my bottle is facing forward in the center of my trunk. He did it with a board over the spare for a 10 lb. tank.
I have a bottle warmer, auto bottle opener (actually not auto...I open with a switch from inside the car), and a purge line. Also a 150 shot on mine.
He mounted all mine on top of the intake, which is fine with me. I had no reason to want to try to hide the set-up. Used all existing bolts....nothing drilled in. I think it looks good. I was going to get a window switch to stay with in a range of RPM's, but after my first test drive this weekend, I find no need for that.
As for the test drive....WOW. What a rush to feel it kick in. Only problem is that I need lots of straight away.
I do wish I had a guage up front so I could see my pressure so I don't have to go into the trunk to check it. I'd like to see it as I am driving.
I'm very happy with mine. It's a quick, easy HP gain and in my opinion, not as intrusive as S.C.

Andrew

 

[SapphireGTS]

Now I need to dust off my NX kit and put it in.

Im so lazy.

 

[ntmatter]

Jack, could you post some details on that power mod of yours? I'd like to know specifically what I'd need to put it together, and how it works. I decided that unswitched power would be OK for now because the NX kit regulates the bottle heater based on pressure, and because I went with the flip-up safety switches which make it much less likely that I'd leave this on by accident. Eventually I'll probably move these to switched power, but for now it should be OK as-is.

 

[Jack B]

Andy:

The Add-a-Fuse is a Littel Fuse product. The fuse socket was the #2 in the engine compartment. This position comes on when the engine starts. The underdash area of the Gen 2's are so tight to work on I decided not to use the fuse block inside the cabin.

1. Run this switched positive lead into the cabin, to the top side of both the "NOS On" and the "Bottle On" and bottle opener switch if you have one. Bring the bottom side of both switches back out. You now have three wires that must be routed in/out (one in, two out) of the cabin.

2. You will have to run this switched lead back to the bottle. This is the solenoid control not blanket power. The power for the bottle heater should be picked up at the battery. This allows a short lead and less voltage drop, thus, a faster reacting blanket. If you have a bottle opener you will need two conductors back to the bottle, therefore you will now have four wires into the cabin.

I added a few other wrinkles to the system and the wiring became pretty busy. I added the terminal block below to simplify the install.

Another thought, I have limited out the NOS supply at approximately 225 shot. Any further increase in the NOS jetting does not affect the a/f. This is probably due to pressure drop across the the 16' 4AN feed line, the solenoid, and the 12" 3AN solenoid-to-sprayers line. My point is, be careful on how far from the sprayers you mount the solenoids, the 3AN lines have substantial pressure drop. Another simple trick is to run all the NOS and fuel lines inside cool-tube.