Notchy shifting as car heats up

[v10sloboy]

As my car warms up the shift becomes very notchy and harder to shift. Anyone had this problem? I was thinking it might be air in the slave cylinder, not allowing the throw out bearing to move enough. Could be the pressure plate may have a problem. The fluid is the synthetic factory manual trans fluid. Any ideas or experiences would be a great help. Thanks John

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

My car does the opposite. With it cold, its a little hard to get a smooth shift into 2nd. The car always jerks a little bit. When it gets warmed up, 2nd is as smooth as butter. I've never worried about it and always contributed it to either me or the car needing to warm up completely.

 

[joe117]

I agree with the dragging clutch idea.
Whatever the cause. Heat or cold might cause it somehow.

I'd ask if the car grinds gears a little when going into reverse.

 

[hemibeep]

Did you say syn. MANUAL tranny fluid? At least on the Gen II it is auto fluid, not manual.
On my car, the stock shifter was near self destruction, so the B/M really helped.
Clutch hanging up may also cause the problem.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

Did you say syn. MANUAL tranny fluid? At least on the Gen II it is auto fluid, not manual.
On my car, the stock shifter was near self destruction, so the B/M really helped.
Clutch hanging up may also cause the problem.

I've been meaning to ask about that. Whats the deal with Vipers taking auto fluid??? I thought it was a typo when I saw it in print the 1st time

 

[SYNFULL]

My car has the same exact problem. I have been meaning to ask about it but got caught up in some other things. I installed a B&M shifter which helped a little, but it still is smooth as silk when I first start it, then becomes harder to get into gear when it gets hot. Not really hard, it just doesn't slide smoothly in, you have to give it more of a push.
Gary

 

[GTS Bruce]

Same here. GTS Bruce

 

[joe117]

Well,
how about reverse?
No synchros in reverse. If it's a dragging clutch, it will be worst going into reverse.

 

[Sean Roe]

If the clutch master and slave is working ok, the transmission is heating up, due to low fluid level, etc..
Had this happen on a racecar I drove years ago.

 

[SYNFULL]

I have been planning on changing the trans fluid. In fact I bought some amsoil synthetic that is sitting in my garage. I just got nervous when I read that you shouldn't use anyhting but mopar. When I put in the B&M shifter I was able to see a little fluid at the bottom of where I could see into. Should the fluid level have been higher than that?
Thanks
Gary

 

[Gerald]

hmmm, sounds like what mine does. About 1 in 20 reverse shifts, it won't go in gear all the way and grind... Any ideas what is causing that ?
Gerald

 

[joe117]

Gerald,
I'd say that this might be caused by the gears simply not being lined up to engage when you try to put it in reverse.
Mine does it every so often. I think it's normal.
I just put it back in neutral and let out the clutch to spin the gears to a new position.

If your clutch was dragging, you would have a hard time pushing it into first gear from a stop and it would grind a little going into reverse.

 

[Schulmann]

It is a good start to change your tranny oil.

I use Amsoil oil since 2000mi so far so good.

I burned out my transmission on Mopar oil ...
I didn't say broke, I really meant burned out.
Mopar has a lower viscosity than Amsoil.

The problem is that we don't have as many choices for manual tranmission oil as in Europe.

The key is to change all of your fuilds once a year at least. Except motor oil that you should change more frequently.