Orange Peel, Not On Fresh Florida Oranges??

Vipuronr

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Yes, there are delicious fresh oranges from Florida and yes, there is a distinct similarity between the rough feel of the orange skin and the back panel of my RT/10:dunno:
So, my question is (thought I'd never get to it, didn't you:nono:) is what is the property process for lightly wet sanding the orange peel in the clear coat?

Car just went into Chucks yesterday and he said that was about the worst he's seen. It is the panel right in back of the rear window.:rolleyes:

I know there is 2000 grid wet and 1500 wet, but do you finish with anything higher if there is such a thing before buffing?:dunno: I could pay someone to do it:eater: and may do so in the end, but I did work in a body shop back in the day and may decide to do myself if I don't have to end up buying equipment costing more that paying someone else!:crazy2:

Thoughts? Recommendations? Good recipes? (thought I'd just throw that one in):lmao:

Thanks very much and have a great Memorial Day Weekend!!

Peter
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97GTS

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What you will find is a different opinion from everyone that does bodywork. I will be painting my GTS black in a few months. I will start sanding the clear with about 1500 to get rid of the peel if there is much. Depends on how the clear goes down. I have put it on glass smooth with just the gun before under perfect conditions, but usually some dust/crap needs to be sanded out. After that I will use 2000 with a 3m foam pad on my orbital (hand DL) . I will THEN go to 3000 with the foam pads. Overkill? Yes. I know some who will buff out 1200 grit or rougher but not me. Bottom line is the finer the sanding the less to buff. After 3000 it almost looks buffed. My strongpoint is my painting and patience. Weakpoint: buffing so I compensate with finer grit. Would I do this on a Neon. Hell no. My Viper? Hell yes. Remember, black shows EVERYTHING.

Good Luck,

Ron
 
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Vipuronr

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Ron:

Makes sense. Back in the day, I did my 1966 E-Type for show, scored 92 on my bodywork/paint. Yes, made some mistakes, mainly because I got stoned putting on too many coats without taking a break:omg::omg::omg::omg:

Anyway, I'm with you on the sanding, but where do I get 2000 and 3000? Body supply I assume...any shot at Home Depot???:nono:

Thanks and enjoy the holiday!:2tu:

Peter
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ViperTony

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Ron:

Makes sense. Back in the day, I did my 1966 E-Type for show, scored 92 on my bodywork/paint. Yes, made some mistakes, mainly because I got stoned putting on too many coats without taking a break:omg::omg::omg::omg:

Anyway, I'm with you on the sanding, but where do I get 2000 and 3000? Body supply I assume...any shot at Home Depot???:nono:

Thanks and enjoy the holiday!:2tu:

Peter
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1998 RT/10, Red :evilmad: (5k miles)

:usa:FIREFIGHTERS SAVE LIVES AND PROPERTY:usa:

SUPPORT TATORS DODGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Peter, I found 1500, 2000, 3000 grit 3M wet sanding paper at my local NAPA store.
 

dansauto

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on fresh non-heat cured paint you can get away with 1500 then compound then glaze. On OEM finish you will never get the haze out from 1500. You need start with 2000 then 3000 then compound. The oem finish is really hard and will not buff easy.
 
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Vipuronr

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Sounds good, going to look for my local (I hope) NAPA store to pick up sandpaper.

Of course, nothing is going to happen until the car comes back from Tators.

Thanks everyone.

Peter
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Vipuronr

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Thanks everyone...good tips!:2tu:

Once the car comes back from Chuck and I get some driving time out of my system,:drive::drive: I am going to focus my attention on the orange peel....:rolleyes:

Hope everyone had a nice Memorial Day!

Peter
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1998 RT/10, Red :evilmad: (5k miles)

:usa:FIREFIGHTERS SAVE LIVES AND PROPERTY:usa:

SUPPORT TATORS DODGE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

agentf1

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I would sand with 2000 first and then follow up with 3000.

You can buff it out with a rotary and some 3m medium compound such as 05093 and a wool pad to start.

Then use a finishing polish like Menzerna P106FF and a foam polishing pad. Keep your speed below 1500 rpm's to be safe.
 

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