Parts ***********

[Kai SRT10]

I finally got the last of the parts in for my engine rebuild.

I took some pictures of some of the more lustful parts. (Crower crankshaft; Darton wet-sleeved block; JM Stryker race heads; Crower connecting rods)

I forgot to take any pictures of the JE pistons. Suffice it to say that they were very shiny.

The piece de resistance was certainly the custom billet crankshaft, carved from a single piece of steel. It looked pretty impressive and weighs a bit less than the stock crankshaft (92 pounds vs. 114 pounds.)


http://gallery.viperclub.org/showgallery.php/ppuser/6928/cat/500

The only parts not yet in are the injectors, the Tilton 3 disk carbon/carbon clutch, and the new transmission, with close ratio 5th and 6th gears. Aiming to have the car all put together by June 14. Can't wait!

 

[VIPER D]

looks hott

are you stoking the motor? as well 522 cid


vd..

 

[Vipera Russelli]

"Lustful parts," hehe. The anticipation of driving your newly outfitted lady is clearly driving you into fits of fancy. Excellent. And you're right -- those parts are indeed ****. Hang in there. It's ALMOST mid-June!

 

[Kai SRT10]

looks hott

are you stoking the motor? as well 522 cid


vd..

Not a stroker. It is bored to 4.125, which with the stock stroke takes the displacement to 529 cubic inches. I didn't want to compromise stability at high rpm, so I decided that the shorter stock stroke was likely better.

 

[ROGUE]

looks hott

are you stoking the motor? as well 522 cid


vd..

Not a stroker. It is bored to 4.125, which with the stock stroke takes the displacement to 529 cubic inches. I didn't want to compromise stability at high rpm, so I decided that the shorter stock stroke was likely better.

Nice setup. Are you retaining the stock main and rod bearing dia? That would play a bigger role in high rpm life than stroke.

Billet main caps and arp studs are on the way as well? I hope.

Are you planning on doing any oil system mods? dry sump maybe?

When they line hone the crank mains, be very very VERY certain how far off the centerline moves, and be damn sure to properly setup the oil pump tolerances after the line hone.

All that motor, it's gonna be time for a TT

 

[Kenny]

What kind of numbers are you shooting for---low 600s?

 

[Kai SRT10]

looks hott

are you stoking the motor? as well 522 cid


vd..

Not a stroker. It is bored to 4.125, which with the stock stroke takes the displacement to 529 cubic inches. I didn't want to compromise stability at high rpm, so I decided that the shorter stock stroke was likely better.

Nice setup. Are you retaining the stock main and rod bearing dia? That would play a bigger role in high rpm life than stroke.

Billet main caps and arp studs are on the way as well? I hope.

Are you planning on doing any oil system mods? dry sump maybe?

When they line hone the crank mains, be very very VERY certain how far off the centerline moves, and be damn sure to properly setup the oil pump tolerances after the line hone.

All that motor, it's gonna be time for a TT

Billet mains and arps are part of the build. After going back and forth, I decided to maintain the stock diameters. I'm not really building a high rpm motor, I just didn't want to do anything that would take me the other direction. We are very conscious of oiling issues. No dry sump (couldn't find a system that allowed me to keep my air conditioning) but am installing a 3 quart accusump.

My goal is not maximum power, so I'm keeping it naturally aspirated, and pretty lazy. I want maximum durability. To that end, I'm not running super high compression, and we will run it with a conservative tune. I want to be able to run long track sessions and otherwise abuse the car with no worries about the mechanicals. Don't know what the power will be, but am guessing it will be north of 600 even though we're leaving a bit on the table.

Here are the modifications which are either done or currently under way:

Engine; Heads and Valvetrain:
JM Cylinder Heads "Striker" stage-4 heads;
Manley extreme duty inconel valves; beryllium valve seats;
Manley dual springs and titanium retainers;
Jesel J2K Mohawk roller rockers;
Crower billet aluminum valve cover spacers
Manley hardened chrome-moly pushrods;
J.M. Custom ground camshaft;

Engine: Bottom End:
Viper V-10 block, bored to 529 cubic inches displacement (4.125 bore x 3.96 stroke)
Darton Custom ductile iron wet sleeves;
Crower custom ground steel billet nitrite coated, knife edged, dihedral profile crankshaft;
Crower custom steel billet **** Light 94 Series 4 connecting rods;
Crower AMS5844 “MP” rod bolts;
ARP head bolts, main studs;
Port Pros steel billet main caps;
Cometic multi layer steel gaskets;
Clevite rod, main, and camshaft bearings; with Polydyn coatings
JE custom pistons, rings, pins
Archer Racing Competition Coupe baffled, swing arm oil pan;
Accusump 3 quart auxiliary oiling system;
Motul 300V 15W50 synthetic racing oil

Fuel Delivery, ignition, air, and engine management:
Dual Walbro 255lph fuel pumps
High capacity braided stainless fuel lines
RSI Single blade throttle body
Upgraded 60# injectors
Roe Racing VEC2 engine management system;
MSD ignition wires;
K&N Smooth tube intake and filters;

Exhaust:
Billy Boat 5 into 1 merge collector stepped headers with HPC HiPerCoat Extreme ceramic coating;
Random Tech high-flow cats;
Corsa Viper track exhaust;
Dynatech Vortex cone mufflers;

Safety:
Autoform Rollbar;
Team Tech six point seat belts;
Isaac Device head restraint system;
Firebottle 10 pound halon fire suppression system;

Suspension, handling, brakes:
Moton club sport shocks;
Eibach springs;
Mopar Viper Competition Coupe sway bars;
3R Racing custom brake ducting;
StopTech braided stainless brake lines;
Archer Racing / Mintex Competition Coupe brake pads;
SRF brake fluid

Driveline:
Quaife torque-biasing limited slip differential;
MGW First Strike shifter;
Skip shift delete;
Precision Shaft Technologies carbon fiber drive shaft;
Stroud Safety kevlar ballistic bellhousing shield;
Rockland Standard Gear Close ratio overdrive Viper road racing transmission;
Mark Williams half shafts;
Tilton three disk carbon/carbon clutch;

Electronics and interior:
Valentine 1 radar detector;
Northwind Engineering 1 Inch seat lowering kit;
Alpine CDA-9857 Head Unit
Polk Audio MMC650 speakers

Wheels and tires:
SmartTire pressure/temperature monitoring system;
Track wheels/tires: SSR Comp H wheels with Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires;

 

[Detlef]

Where are you going to track this beast, Pueblo? You'll need a bigger track now

 

[ROGUE]

Billet mains and arps are part of the build. After going back and forth, I decided to maintain the stock diameters. I'm not really building a high rpm motor, I just didn't want to do anything that would take me the other direction. We are very conscious of oiling issues. No dry sump (couldn't find a system that allowed me to keep my air conditioning) but am installing a 3 quart accusump.

My goal is not maximum power, so I'm keeping it naturally aspirated, and pretty lazy. I want maximum durability. To that end, I'm not running super high compression, and we will run it with a conservative tune. I want to be able to run long track sessions and otherwise abuse the car with no worries about the mechanicals. Don't know what the power will be, but am guessing it will be north of 600 even though we're leaving a bit on the table.

Here are the modifications which are either done or currently under way:

Engine; Heads and Valvetrain:
JM Cylinder Heads "Striker" stage-4 heads;
Manley extreme duty inconel valves; beryllium valve seats;
Manley dual springs and titanium retainers;
Jesel J2K Mohawk roller rockers;
Crower billet aluminum valve cover spacers
Manley hardened chrome-moly pushrods;
J.M. Custom ground camshaft;

Engine: Bottom End:
Viper V-10 block, bored to 529 cubic inches displacement (4.125 bore x 3.96 stroke)
Darton Custom ductile iron wet sleeves;
Crower custom ground steel billet nitrite coated, knife edged, dihedral profile crankshaft;
Crower custom steel billet **** Light 94 Series 4 connecting rods;
Crower AMS5844 “MP” rod bolts;
ARP head bolts, main studs;
Port Pros steel billet main caps;
Cometic multi layer steel gaskets;
Clevite rod, main, and camshaft bearings; with Polydyn coatings
JE custom pistons, rings, pins
Archer Racing Competition Coupe baffled, swing arm oil pan;
Accusump 3 quart auxiliary oiling system;
Motul 300V 15W50 synthetic racing oil

Fuel Delivery, ignition, air, and engine management:
Dual Walbro 255lph fuel pumps
High capacity braided stainless fuel lines
RSI Single blade throttle body
Upgraded 60# injectors
Roe Racing VEC2 engine management system;
MSD ignition wires;
K&N Smooth tube intake and filters;

Exhaust:
Billy Boat 5 into 1 merge collector stepped headers with HPC HiPerCoat Extreme ceramic coating;
Random Tech high-flow cats;
Corsa Viper track exhaust;
Dynatech Vortex cone mufflers;

Safety:
Autoform Rollbar;
Team Tech six point seat belts;
Isaac Device head restraint system;
Firebottle 10 pound halon fire suppression system;

Suspension, handling, brakes:
Moton club sport shocks;
Eibach springs;
Mopar Viper Competition Coupe sway bars;
3R Racing custom brake ducting;
StopTech braided stainless brake lines;
Archer Racing / Mintex Competition Coupe brake pads;
SRF brake fluid

Driveline:
Quaife torque-biasing limited slip differential;
MGW First Strike shifter;
Skip shift delete;
Precision Shaft Technologies carbon fiber drive shaft;
Stroud Safety kevlar ballistic bellhousing shield;
Rockland Standard Gear Close ratio overdrive Viper road racing transmission;
Mark Williams half shafts;
Tilton three disk carbon/carbon clutch;

Electronics and interior:
Valentine 1 radar detector;
Northwind Engineering 1 Inch seat lowering kit;
Alpine CDA-9857 Head Unit
Polk Audio MMC650 speakers

Wheels and tires:
SmartTire pressure/temperature monitoring system;
Track wheels/tires: SSR Comp H wheels with Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires;

Hmmm... That could be the most bizarre engine build i've seen in quite some time. Few things i'm curious about.

Big ported aftermarket heads, bigger cam (what are the specs?) nice rockers... Yet you want to maintain stock rpm ranges? Thats fairly contradictory right off the start.

Why the fancy billet crank, that retains all the stock dimensions? Stock cranks are living fine over 1200hp+ so it isn't a strength issue. Seems like you skipped over all the huge benefits (smaller bearing journals, etc) just to say it has a billet crank, and to lighten your wallet by $4k.

I'm really curious who advised you on this engine build. Seems as though you spent a ton of $$$ on some pretty much useless parts, by skipped out on some very good ones.

What are the cam specs?
With the custom headers, exactly what are you going for? I'm hoping something along the lines of 1 7/8 tubes, 3.5" collector.
I'm pretty surprised nobody could get you a 5-6 stage dry sump and retain a/c. That would have been money well spent, plus an easy and significant HP gain from oil control alone.

This is down right baffling.

 

[Kai SRT10]

You're right about the crankshaft. It came about because I ruined my stock crank and needed a crankshaft. Originally, I was going to stroke the engine, and didn't want an offset ground stock crank, so I ordered the billet crank as an alternative to an offset ground stock crank. Then part way through the build, I changed my mind as to the stroked motor, but decided to go ahead with the billet crank for the weight savings. Had I known from the start that I was going to retain the stock stroke, I probably would not have purchased the billet crank. On the plus side, the billet crank has eliminated over 22 pounds of rotating mass and should have improved oiling compared with the stock piece. Is that worth $4000? Probably not, but I've wasted money on stuff before and have still been able to live with myself afterwards.

We are going to run somewhat higher rpms than normal, but it's not going to be a super high-revving engine. It's not what I wanted or needed. As I said before, my number 1 goal from this build is durability. I want to keep it unstressed and absolutely reliable. It's a weird build in some respects because maximum performance is not my primary goal. Even so, I think I will end up with a car that is quite fast for its intended purpose (track days and open road races.)

Believe me, I looked long and hard for a dry sump system. I know first hand the dangers of oil starvation, as that is what destroyed my engine and led to this re-build. If I could have found the right system, I would have installed it even without the promise of power gains. I talked to many different Viper tuners. Many of them could put in a dry-sump. Nobody could put one in and retain my air conditioning. As this is a street car, and I live in a warm climate, I decided to keep the a/c and go with an accusump. If somebody can come up with a reliable dry-sump set up that allows me to keep my a/c I will consider it. Daniel at Viper Specialty Performance is working on such a system, but I think it's still a ways out.

I don't have custom headers, just off the shelf Billy Boat headers and an off the shelf Corsa track exhaust. Don't know the cam specs. They guy who made the heads also sold me the cam. He worked out the cam specs with my engine builder (Dragon Race Engineering, here in Colorado.)

The car should be back together in a couple of weeks. I will post some dyno numbers when I get them.

Hmmm... That could be the most bizarre engine build i've seen in quite some time. Few things i'm curious about.

Big ported aftermarket heads, bigger cam (what are the specs?) nice rockers... Yet you want to maintain stock rpm ranges? Thats fairly contradictory right off the start.

Why the fancy billet crank, that retains all the stock dimensions? Stock cranks are living fine over 1200hp+ so it isn't a strength issue. Seems like you skipped over all the huge benefits (smaller bearing journals, etc) just to say it has a billet crank, and to lighten your wallet by $4k.

I'm really curious who advised you on this engine build. Seems as though you spent a ton of $$$ on some pretty much useless parts, by skipped out on some very good ones.

What are the cam specs?
With the custom headers, exactly what are you going for? I'm hoping something along the lines of 1 7/8 tubes, 3.5" collector.
I'm pretty surprised nobody could get you a 5-6 stage dry sump and retain a/c. That would have been money well spent, plus an easy and significant HP gain from oil control alone.

This is down right baffling.

 

[Viper TT/10]

wow, that's a nice na build.

 

[Camfab]

That's a great combo, I would build one similar if I had the extra cash. The crankshaft may be overkill but so what. Large cylinder heads with the proper cam, can have excellent low lift numbers if designed correct. The JM heads, at least on paper should produce more usuable power over lesser production base castings everywhere under the usable curve. The combustion chamber design is very reminiscent of my old ported Dart small block chevy heads. 4.125 is also the same size bore as a stock small block 400 chevy, going with the shorter stroke, longer bore was a very wise move. Going oversquare on the bore/stroke combo is great for a truck, but not great for a race motor. Can't wait to see your numbers.

 

[Kenny]

I heard the JM Stryker heads have a variety of different variants---do you know what they are and what variant do you have?

 

[Kai SRT10]

I heard the JM Stryker heads have a variety of different variants---do you know what they are and what variant do you have?

The castings are the same. The variation is in the valve-train components. I have their top of the line full race components (inconel valves, etc.) in my heads.

 

[Kenny]

Kai, thanks for the reply. I thought there was a difference in porting also. Seems to be quite a difference in price form the base model to the mac daddy setup you had---at least in the initial pricing that was talked about on the Alley.

 

[Kai SRT10]

Kai, thanks for the reply. I thought there was a difference in porting also. Seems to be quite a difference in price form the base model to the mac daddy setup you had---at least in the initial pricing that was talked about on the Alley.

Yes, I believe that the porting is different too. The base castings are the same is what I was trying to say.

 

[ROGUE]

Will be interesting to see the dyno numbers and how they fall in the rpm range. I get the feeling you will cut it off just when this thing is really starting to run. Oh well, as long as it makes that peak # then rock on right.

That's a great combo, I would build one similar if I had the extra cash. The crankshaft may be overkill but so what. Large cylinder heads with the proper cam, can have excellent low lift numbers if designed correct. The JM heads, at least on paper should produce more usuable power over lesser production base castings everywhere under the usable curve. The combustion chamber design is very reminiscent of my old ported Dart small block chevy heads. 4.125 is also the same size bore as a stock small block 400 chevy, going with the shorter stroke, longer bore was a very wise move. Going oversquare on the bore/stroke combo is great for a truck, but not great for a race motor. Can't wait to see your numbers.

Not to threadjack, but who is feeding you this crap? Yes low lift numbers are great, but anytime you increase port volume, increase flow, and add a larger cam, it always raises the rpm range. And without bumping compression it will make the bottom end feel sluggish due to the lower dynamic compression.

btw he didn't go shorter stroke, but retained the stock 3.96 stroke. I agree the 4.125 bore will help with valve shrouding and should even increase headflow a bit, but given the desired rpm range and head choice IMO going to a 4.0-4.125 stroke would have GREATLY helped build back the inevitable bottom end loss. Oh and beside the fact that w/o a GTS-R block it would be nearly impossible to go oversquare on this motor, you're once again completely wrong. The bore/stroke ratio is very combination dependant. Depending on desired rpm range, cylinder head design, etc. many times you don't want a super large bore. Look at the last few years engine masters builds, quite a few oversquare motors in there. Oh and how about IHRA Pro Stock, ALL of those monster 650-850ci, 9500rpm motors are EXCESSIVELY oversquare. Nutswing all you like, but please stop posting this crap just to hear your meat flap in the wind.

 

[Camfab]

Rogue,..

A) Shorter stroke meaning, staying stock vs. longer stroke
B) Longer stroke equals closer to square or over
C) Yes, obviously lower compression equals lower cylinder pressure, given no other changes. A properly designed cylinder head and cam combo can make up for what you may consider a non intuitive set-up.
D) Building a motor for road race applications is very different than drag racing. Ten passes on a Pro Stocker and it's time for a tear down.
E) By the way, no one fed me this crap (information), it's come through many years and countless dollars thrown away on too many engine combinations.
F) I believe, that for his purposes, he has built a very reliable engine combination, which should if properly assembled produce great power and reliability.

Bore and stroke theory has been played out in the engine building world for years. Yes, a longer stroke will produce more torque out of the corners, but again the factory combination is similar to a stroker motor as compared to other engine combinations. It's my belief that the larger bore in concert with that stroke combination should produce excellent torque and horsepower. Let's not forget that his displacement has increased as well. Ring and piston life should increase over a longer stroke combination as well.

 

[ROGUE]

Yes, obviously lower compression equals lower cylinder pressure, given no other changes. A properly designed cylinder head and cam combo can make up for what you may consider a non intuitive set-up.

The problem he faces here is that with the much larger port volume heads, increased flow, and the camshaft to match, it will raise the operating rpm range.

Retaining the stock, or even slightly raising the static compression is not adequate. Due to the cam profile, and cylinder head design, the dynamic compression ratio will be quite a bit lower than stock. This will lead to a motor that performs very well at high rpm where it can build sufficient cylinder pressure, but may feel soft in the lower end.

My issue is that by using such an extreme head (when it really isn't necessary for his goals) but restricting it's operating RPM, he is hurting the overall power curve.

As for increasing piston/ring life due to a slightly shorter stroke, it's not even worth mentioning. The life difference between a 3.96 and even up to a 4.25" stroke on a viper motor, given the more than adequate rod/stroke ratio, deck height, and cylinder angles, would be so minimal it's not even worth discussing.

Being a well built motor it should produce good power and be just as reliable as stock. Though I do find it rather interesting that given his whole intent was for a very reliable track motor, he skipped the most basic steps to accomplish that. But I guess time will tell.

 

[Camfab]

Agreed Rogue, should be interesting to see how it plays out for him.

 

[Viper X]

Kai,

I had one built one about like yours. Same Darton wet liners, same heads, same headers, roller rockers, ARP studs, JE pistons and bore size, forged rods, etc., etc. I didn't change the crank but had it extensively machinged and balanced.

You will want an ATI damper (I didn't see one listed). One of the guys lost a stock damper on a 715 hp Stryker head Gen II engine at Buttonwillow a few weeks ago.

You will also need the bigger fuel pumps and system.

I choose the AEM to tune it with rather than the Vec 2.

Mine made 700 / 700 on the engine dyno at 5800 rpm with incredible low end torque, 601 tq at 2500 rpm up to 700 and back down to 600 at 5800 and no tune.

My plan was to supercharge mine once in the car, so we used a mild "blower" cam, no overlap and didn't need to spin to 7500 rpm. We are shooting for 950 rwhp with 12 psi. We are already at 850 with 9psi, so we should get close. It's a real beast.

Rogue, I understand what you're saying. My comment would be that V-10's are a bit different than V-8's. Mine would be a good example. Sure, he could've gone higher rpm (smaller journals) and made even more power N/A. I kind of wonder why he didn't, but there's a bunch of hp and tq (power) available with the bigger heads in the mid range as well with a V-10 and he has a good margin of safety.

Good luck Kai. Keep us posted.

Dan

 

[Kai SRT10]

Kai,

I had one built one about like yours. Same Darton wet liners, same heads, same headers, roller rockers, ARP studs, JE pistons and bore size, forged rods, etc., etc. I didn't change the crank but had it extensively machinged and balanced.

You will want an ATI damper (I didn't see one listed). One of the guys lost a stock damper on a 715 hp Stryker head Gen II engine at Buttonwillow a few weeks ago.

You will also need the bigger fuel pumps and system.

I choose the AEM to tune it with rather than the Vec 2.

Mine made 700 / 700 on the engine dyno at 5800 rpm with incredible low end torque, 601 tq at 2500 rpm up to 700 and back down to 600 at 5800 and no tune.

My plan was to supercharge mine once in the car, so we used a mild "blower" cam, no overlap and didn't need to spin to 7500 rpm. We are shooting for 950 rwhp with 12 psi. We are already at 850 with 9psi, so we should get close. It's a real beast.

Rogue, I understand what you're saying. My comment would be that V-10's are a bit different than V-8's. Mine would be a good example. Sure, he could've gone higher rpm (smaller journals) and made even more power N/A. I kind of wonder why he didn't, but there's a bunch of hp and tq (power) available with the bigger heads in the mid range as well with a V-10 and he has a good margin of safety.

Good luck Kai. Keep us posted.

Dan

X:
Is this the damper you have?

http://www.atiperformanceproducts.com/products/dampers/charts/damchrysler.htm

What does 700/700 on the engine dyno translate into at the rear wheels? Did you ever do a pull that tested rwhp with your n/a set-up?

I've got upgraded fuel pumps, lines, 60# injectors, etc. already in the build.

If the VEC 2 doesn't work, I will be looking at the AEM system too.

 

[Viper X]

Hi Kai,

1 - Yes, that is the damper.

2 - This is on an engine dyno, no pulls without supercharger. I would guess 10% loss to the rears with your set up. But your hp / tq numbers should be higher, as you will have a more aggressive cam than my "blower cam". I also went with solid lifters as I'm planning to spin it to 6500 rpm when needed.

3 - Glad to hear that on the fuel system. I had to upgrade mine to two high volume "in tank" pumps and two large, high pressure external Bosch pumps, -8 AN lines and a large, vacuum modified fuel regulator.

4 - The AEM system is very slick and will piggy back onto the stock computer. Among other things, it offers data logging and traction control in addition to complete engine management.

Anxious to hear about your car when complete.

Dan

PS How do your Moton Club sports "ride" on the street compared to the stock suspension?

 

[ViperGMC]

I have an extra ATI damper and pulley if you are interested.

 

[mxz900]

Came across this in my search for info on Gen 3 engine builds. What ever came of this build? How has the motor performed since the build? Still together? In the process of building my motor now, but not sure on what internals and how far to go with it. Want durability, but also big HP and torque for the track. Must be streetable as well, although the majority of the miles will be put on at the track.

 

[Kai SRT10]

This post was almost 6 years old. I'd forgotten I'id even posted it.

In answer to your questions:

The car is very fast. Absolutely wicked on a road course. With so much weight taken out of the rotating mass of the engine, it revs like crazy. Put your foot on the gas, and the torque and power are there instantly. It's durable and can run flat out back to back 20 minute track day sessions without issues even in very hot weather. This is why I like naturally aspirated power more than blower/turbo power, even though naturally aspirated power is a lot more expensive.

However, it's pretty brutal as a street car. It is very loud, and the sidepipes make it even more so. If I'm going on a long road trip, I take earplugs.
The cam makes it buck and **** at idle, and if you're stuck in stop and go traffic, it's not fun at all. The stock Viper is a bit of a beast. My car is significantly more beastly. If you like that sort of thing (and I usually do) then it's a lot of fun.

I have to take steps to avoid emissions testing, as there's no way my car will pass even a cursory emissions test. Luckily, where I live, there are work-arounds.

The Tilton clutch didn't work out. It pretty much wore out after 3000 miles. I'm running a McLeod Street Twin now. Most of the rest of the build has remained the same.

I learned quite a bit from my build. At first, I decided to have a local speed shop do the work on my car. They didn't have much experience with Vipers, but they had a good reputation with other cars and had built some nice engines for various Vettes, Mustangs, etc. This was a mistake. After I'd sunk quite a bit of $$$ in to the local shop, I ended up shipping the car to California to DC Performance and Exotic Engine to get it done right. I should have done this right off the bat. It would have saved me money, time, and frustration. My advice would be to have a Viper experienced shop do the work. It's worth it.

Here's a link to my Car Domain page with more information on the car than you probably care to see. (page 6 has the detailed information on the build.)

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/681231/2004-dodge-viper

 

[TonyCool]

How much did you spend building it?

 

[Kai SRT10]

How much did you spend building it?

I didn't keep track. Got to be at least $70,000 all in.