passenger side window quit working

[BoremViper97]

Hi everyone
i couldn't find a post/thread so I'm starting this new one. My apologies if I missed one.

For the last year of having this 26 year old car, I've noticed the window(s) to be a tiny bit slow, but again it's 26 years old.
Yesterday my wife noted that the window went down slowly- and then an hour or two later it just won't go anywhere. And it is stuck halfway up/down, so i do have a bit of risk of weather/bad guys.

I'll look for a bad fuse/circuit breaker this morning (and delete this thread if that fixes it). But overall wondering if anyone has good great advice for me to diagnose this.
Thanks in advance fellas.

 

[Goggles Pizano]

Motor could dead now, window tracks dirty, clip(s) broken, switch not working.

Search window, regulator, window regulator, tacos, fried chicken, etc

 

[99RT10GTS]

I have a rebuilt one ready to go, shoot me a message if you need with side.

 

[GTSnake]

Check your wiring at the door hinge. Although passenger side less likely to break but it's still a weak point.

 

[BoremViper97]

Well I dug in.
Carefully as possible.
The motor DOES run when the button is pushed.
And I saw the cable wheel had come unassembled

So I dug further. I remove the gold spring clip that holds the window to the moving ‘truck’ but I can’t get the window removed from the ‘truck’. Any ideas?

 

[GTSnake]

the window is held onto the carrier with a push in pin. You have to push the window pin out of the hole I believe it was toward the outside of the door. Don't lose the foam pad that is sandwiched between the window and the carrier.

 

[99RT10GTS]

Looks like the cable broke. If you want, I have a good one for sale, will take yours back without a core charge

 

[BoremViper97]

the window is held onto the carrier with a push in pin. You have to push the window pin out of the hole I believe it was toward the outside of the door. Don't lose the foam pad that is sandwiched between the window and the carrier.

i still can't figure out how to do it.

 

[GTSnake]

i still can't figure out how to do it.

Try to find a picture of what the window pin looks like. It's like an arrow with the clip going around the shaft of the arrow. Once you pull the pin you just need to push/pull out the arrow from the carrier.

 

[BoremViper97]

Hey everyone I figured it out.
The problem is that I couldn’t flex the window enough to get the pin out of the “truck”
But today I tried again and had the idea to loosen up the rearward track so it would flex more.
It worked perfectly. I loosened up just the one screw (shown in the picture with my blue plastic tool pointing at it.)
And now I’m on to the repair portion.

 

[GTSnake]

Yeah that screws is to adjust the track position. If it's offline it could create more friction when the window is moving.

 

[GTS Dean]

More often than not, door electronics issues are traced to this area. Copper wire work hardens with repeated flexing and the conductors break. I move the splices outside the umbilical tube to reduce repeats. Now my window, door lock indicator and LF door speaker work again!