Problem with my ACR

[LikeACR]

Hello,
Yesterday I drove a trackday. In the afternoon on the last stint I had the following problem.
Long straight full throttle 4th Passage just before the rev limiter, the engine stops. Disengaged and gang put back and the engine was running normally again.
But at the start / finish the same problem.
Has anyone had such a problem?
Thanks for answers.

 

[PDCjonny]

Probably went into limp mode to protect the engine.
Search "limp mode".

 

[LikeACR]

Thanks for the info.
The battery was not fully charged, and in the morning and everything worked great.
It was late afternoon after 5 minutes at 5000 rpm in 4th Circuit Gang suddenly the engine was out. I do not think it was the emergency program because after I loaded the gear back again power was there. Although only about 30 seconds and then was again the same ...

Could it be due to a weak battery? Morning I look in the error memory even if something is found.

 

[LifeIsGood]

The governor probably kicked in...sorry, I couldn't resist.

 

[LikeACR]

Hello,
Unfortunately, I still have problems with my ACR 08
In the spring I took the car on a Dyno Jet vote for the K & N Typhoon kit can and I was hoping that this problem is resolved.
Yesterday at 97 F, I was only able to always be 4 rounds and the temperature went up
Oil 270 F
Water 240 F

In the afternoon, after 2 rounds slowly I wanted to give 2 Rounds gas and then came the old problem again. 3 Passage through accelerated to the red zone and then he went to the emergency program. The ETC light comes on. I waited a little and started the engine again, the lamp turns off.
Another 2 rounds slowly and then again the same problem. 3 Full transition to red area then emergency program and lamp.

I have 3 questions for you:
What could it be? Map sensor or maybe it is due to the K & N Typhoon?

Which is the best oil / water cooler one can obstruct?

What else could I do with so I come to the temperatures on the track to good values​​?

Thanks for the answers!
Here's a video of a round:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NtaaI5ioSI&feature=youtu.be

 

[aqwut]

I sprayed electrical contact cleaner on the two sensors by the air filters, and also the one for the oil. Not sure if it did anything, but it was clean. I drove my car last night, and it was covered in Fish flies. The rad was completely covered. Bought some summer windshield washer fluid and sprayed here down with a 40 degree pressure washer tip(10" away) and it it looked spanking new with some dings from the bugs.

 

[bushido]

Hello,
Unfortunately, I still have problems with my ACR 08
In the spring I took the car on a Dyno Jet vote for the K & N Typhoon kit can and I was hoping that this problem is resolved.
Yesterday at 97 F, I was only able to always be 4 rounds and the temperature went up
Oil 270 F
Water 240 F

In the afternoon, after 2 rounds slowly I wanted to give 2 Rounds gas and then came the old problem again. 3 Passage through accelerated to the red zone and then he went to the emergency program. The ETC light comes on. I waited a little and started the engine again, the lamp turns off.
Another 2 rounds slowly and then again the same problem. 3 Full transition to red area then emergency program and lamp.

I have 3 questions for you:
What could it be? Map sensor or maybe it is due to the K & N Typhoon?

Which is the best oil / water cooler one can obstruct?

What else could I do with so I come to the temperatures on the track to good values​​?

Thanks for the answers!
Here's a video of a round:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NtaaI5ioSI&feature=youtu.be

That's a real cool track, and the scenary is pretty. Do you have a scanner to plug in to the port? That way you can read the codes. I'm guessing it might have something to do with your K&N Typhoon..

btw, what tires you running?

 

[ViperGeorge]

Hello,
Unfortunately, I still have problems with my ACR 08
In the spring I took the car on a Dyno Jet vote for the K & N Typhoon kit can and I was hoping that this problem is resolved.
Yesterday at 97 F, I was only able to always be 4 rounds and the temperature went up
Oil 270 F
Water 240 F

In the afternoon, after 2 rounds slowly I wanted to give 2 Rounds gas and then came the old problem again. 3 Passage through accelerated to the red zone and then he went to the emergency program. The ETC light comes on. I waited a little and started the engine again, the lamp turns off.
Another 2 rounds slowly and then again the same problem. 3 Full transition to red area then emergency program and lamp.

I have 3 questions for you:
What could it be? Map sensor or maybe it is due to the K & N Typhoon?

Which is the best oil / water cooler one can obstruct?

What else could I do with so I come to the temperatures on the track to good values​​?

Thanks for the answers!
Here's a video of a round:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NtaaI5ioSI&feature=youtu.be

Beautiful track. What video system are you using? Like that it puts the turn number up on the screen.

 

[bushido]

Gbatejen you can get it with Harry's Lap Timer for Iphone..

 

[LikeACR]

Thanks for the info.
I think it really is up to the K & N Typhoon Kit. Since I have installed is the problem. But always in the afternoon and only on the racetrack.
I've attached the reader but he shows no error message.
I think I'm going to obstruct the oem filter.

I drove with the slick Kumho V710. Which is great, but unfortunately I'm only getting 4 laps down due to temperature problems.
Are there any tips what is the best for ACR `s which are moved on the track.

I Filmed with I Phone 4 and Harry lap timer.

 

[LikeACR]

Meanwhile, a large oil cooler was the work well.

Because of the Limp mode of the crankshaft sensor was replaced and unfortunately again the same problem. 2 Transition by fully accelerated and in the red zone is the Viper in the limp mode. The week is still the original air filter installed and I hope the problem is resolved?
It can not be due to the Corsa exhaust system?

 

[LikeACR]

Sorry it was translated incorrectly.
It is the cam sensor was replaced.

As I said. If I switch the engine off and back on the limp mode is gone and I kan go back to normal. Once I get into the red zone again comes back to the Limp Mode ...

Unfortunately, there is little help in Germany!

 

[MtnBiker]

So, I had a very similar problem. Replaced cam sensor, still there, replaced PCM, still there, replaced wiring harness still there, sent motor to Arrow Racing and they rebuilt it, shipped it back with a spare cam sensor. They said that the cam sensors are very fault intolerant, and that they dyno'ed two that worked on my car, thus they sent the spare back with the motor in case the currrent sensor goes bad again.

http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/663152-Lights-after-hard-acceleration

I don't have anything but my experience to go on, but I suggest replacing the cam sensor until you get one (or two) that works.

 

[LikeACR]

Thanks for the info. Today I clean the K & N Typhoon, and then fit the original.
A small hope remains that it is characterized away because the problem exists since farming. After yet another cam sensor.

 

[LikeACR]

@ MTNBiker I just came from the dealer. We have the K & N series built again. The Limp Mode came again and this time even at 4000 in the 3rd Gear. This time has finally shone the light engine and the error is:
The P0369 is the cam sensor has just been newly installed. Now 3 pieces were again ordered and I hope one of them fits.
Should anyone have a tip again, thank you!

 

[MtnBiker]

Sounds familiar. Mine did not have to go to redline to cause the problem. It repeated after every thing we did. It wasn't until Arrow Racing tested numerous cam sensors did the problem go away (yes, they rebuilt the motor too, but perhaps that was not necessary, although I was the happy beneficiary).

I sure hope one of the 3 new sensors will solve the problem.

 

[LikeACR]

Yes i hope too

 

[ViperGeorge]

Check the connectors to the PCM. Make sure they are tight and no wires are loose. I had this problem and it would throw a cam or crank sensor code.

 

[SNKBYT]

Try putting in a new stock air filter. Or changing the PCM to the Mopar race PCM. My 09 ACR car would into the limp mode when I modified the airbox/filter.

 

[LikeACR]

I have the Mopar PCM .... AB.
Tomorrow we check the connections of the Mopar PCM and I test the cam sensor 3 pieces.
If that does not work I put the series back to PCM then I only change as the Corsa side pipes?

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

The Corsa will not throw a code with or without the Mopar PCM.

Check and see if the wiring harness where it attach's to the front of the passenger side valve cover is in place or has come loose. I have seen where the harness can become damaged there or the proximity to the alternator.

 

[LikeACR]

Thank you we will also check

 

[LikeACR]

Now I have an idea.
I have installed Recaro Pole Position seats and 6 point harnesses. It lit the lamp for the front passenger seat airbag and this only goes off when I take a passenger in the front seat.
Could this also be a reason for the limp mode?
In my first post, the seats and belts were not installed yet, however.

 

[LikeACR]

Just tested the new map sensor and there was no more limp mode.
I hope that this issue is also fixed on the racetrack now.
Thanks again for the tips!

 

[MtnBiker]

Did you mean cam sensor? You said map sensor.

 

[LikeACR]

Sorry i mean cam sensor..

 

[MtnBiker]

That's great news. I think you are good to go. No more problems. Find a spare to keep around for track days.

 

[Steve-Indy]

For those planning to change the cam sensor on a Gen IV (2008-2010 )...NOTE that the diagram/directions contained on the Dodge 2008 Factory Service Manual on CD ARE INCORRECT...as they lead you to the KNOCK sensors.

The correct procedure can be found on the 2009 Factory Service Manual CD.

From my old post on the issue found in this link:

http://forums.viperclub.org/threads/619991-cam-sensor-recall?daysprune=-1

"Sorry, but you can't really see it with the car assembled...need to remove
plastic cowling at base of windshield.

By the way...the
instructions/drawings for this procedure as found on the 2008 Dodge Viper
Service Manual CD are WRONG!!! You DO NOT need to remove intake manifold to
change the camshaft position sensor...which is NOT on the top of the front of
the engine as shown on MY CD!!!!!

and:

\I should clarify that the term is "RRT" supposedly stands for a
"Rapid Response Transmission"...meaning (as I've told by a
nearby Viper Tech) that this is a service that must be performed prior
to delivery...AND, if a given percent are indeed done pre-delivery, the
company can avoid that bad word "recall".

​