Production run 4778637AB from china

[brianbut]

I had a Production run 4778637AB IAC
From china

If anyone is interested in purchasing a new IAC 4778637AB which is for a GenII

I’m not a vendor. I’m a member in good standing

If member interested in purchasing one of these from me let me know
I’m looking to sell only to members at my cost plus shipping
I’m not into it to make a profit just to help others that can’t find a IAC that works if replacing

I had tried a few IAC from different companies and knowing that some of those suppliers are selling versions that are for Gen III or Gen IV. And really don’t work well in random idle wondering when warm. And these suppliers are charging in the hundreds

My costs are under 10 dollars plus shipping

Let me know if any members in good standing want to buy one from me
I am not selling to anyone who is a vendor or reseller. Members only

Brian

 

[Michiel k Rorick]

I have a Gen II . What is a IAC 4778637AB ?

 

[brianbut]

It’s the idle control valve
Which is on passenger side near the front of the engine that controls the engine idle

 

[brianbut]

The part is no longer manufactured

All that is available for the IAC is for a 2004 to 2006

I think that’s a GenIII

I have not have had much success with a gen III version

Note: the below occurred with using an aftermarket IAC from a big box retailer:

I have an idle run on after the car is warm and sometimes idles around 1500rpm with products that are only available in the open market

 

[brianbut]

The only part that is available is 05245352AC from NAPA and their name brand for over $120 dollars

Just a point of reference.

Please check the internet for pn 05245352AC
It’s for another Gen other than Gen II

 

[brianbut]

My bad. Pn

5245352AC. Is for 2005 and 2006. 8.3 v10​

Gen IV

90 to 120. From summit , mopar and other places like NAPA. And other places

Sorry for not having all the data

 

[jkroberts21]

All, I just met up in person with Brian and purchased a couple of these from him. It's all legitimate and he's an honest guy. You can't beat $10 plus shipping

 

[GTS Dean]

Unless they don't work on a Gen 2.

 

[brianbut]

don’t need nay sayers and doom gloomers

It works perfectly in my Gen II

 

[ninetyninegts]

Brian,
Direct message me on how I can get a couple of these. or [email protected]

 

[Steve M]

The data in this thread is all over the place, so let's clarify.

You are selling Gen 2 idle air control (IAC) valves, part number 4778637AB.

The Gen 3 idle air control valve is still available (part number 05245352AC), but will not work in a Gen 2, hence why you had the Gen 2 IAC valves reproduced.

The Gen 4 (and 5) do not have IAC valves, so any references to those in this thread should be ignored. Idle air control for those engines is handled by the throttle body blades since they are drive-by-wire (i.e. they don't use a physical cable attached to the gas pedal).

Feel free to correct (minus the Gen 4/5 part, because I know that to be true), but that's how I read the info. Just wanted to make sure everyone is on the same page here.

 

[brianbut]

Thanks for the update

Yes all that you stated is correct and thanks for the information and clarification and corrections

$9 dollars plus shipping USPS

 

[99RT10GTS]

Hey Brian, sent you a message

 

[brianbut]

Mike

Made an error. I meant 10 units at 9 dollars each for a subtotal of $ 90 dollars + shipping + transfer service fee if using PayPal Venmo or Zelle

 

[vprtech]

I don't want to hijack this thread, only add that many times, in my experience of working on these cars for about thirty years, the idle valves are misdiagnosed to be the cause of idling issues especially on GEN2's .

On engines with camshafts that are different than stock, and sometimes even on certain model year stock Vipers, when the car warms up and you start having idle undershoots or hangs when coming to a stop, that is usually a engine calibration topic, usually not the fault of the idle valve. I've seen where people replace the idle valve and in the process do an ecu reset, the car runs better, at least for a while, and people conclude the fix was the replacement of the idle valve when instead, it was a temporary fix from the resetting of the ecu.

Not to say the the valves don't go bad, to the OP, I think it is good that you had them reproduced, this is just for those that replace the valve and continue to have issues. If it is a engine calibration issue, it can be fixed.

Final note, and this is documented on multiple threads on this form, early JTEC cars, i.e. 1996-97, almost always require an idle learn after an ecu reset. If you have a borderline battery, excessive voltage drop from the battery cabling and/or the capacitors are failing or timed out in your ecu, this can also happen during cranking as a reset happens in the ecu from the low voltage. Even when new, if the ecu was reset, I remember having to nurse the throttle to keep the car running until it warmed up. Chrysler came out with a service bulletin that instructed you to do as I mentioned, nurse the throttle until the car would idle on it's own, then once the car was at full operating temperature for several minutes, let it idle for a few more with both the A/C on and then off, which will allow the IAC adaptives to compensate for any feed forward errors.