I doubt this is the case but who knows... smaller volume would give you louder output but at expense of lower end, resulting in a "thumper" instead of bass. LOL at this enclosure
Question about subwoofer removal
- Thread starter PeterMJ
- Start date
So... over this weekend, I finished the other half of the enclosure, building up the thickness and creating mating surface took a bit time...
There is more to the second half of the enclosure but I did not have the time to take pics...
I tried for size today, the woofer fits pretty good and plenty of clearance inside.
The woofer fits flush, actually below the surface of enclosure and this is exactly what I was aiming for to prevent any excursion related issues.
Because I am very AR, I will be finishing some details that nobody will ever see tomorrow and then join both halves together and paint the enclosure. I think it looks fairly stock, as I hoped for.
You must be registered for see images
There is more to the second half of the enclosure but I did not have the time to take pics...
I tried for size today, the woofer fits pretty good and plenty of clearance inside.
You must be registered for see images
The woofer fits flush, actually below the surface of enclosure and this is exactly what I was aiming for to prevent any excursion related issues.
You must be registered for see images
Because I am very AR, I will be finishing some details that nobody will ever see tomorrow and then join both halves together and paint the enclosure. I think it looks fairly stock, as I hoped for.
Hirkophoto
Viper Owner
Nice photos and great work. The core of the problem is that the location for the sub is bad. The enclosure is another problem too. I think making an enclosure like that will help the situation for sure, but the bottom line is the location for the sub should be in the back somewhere and not in the front firing up at the windscreen. PeterMJ You should make some of those enclosures and sell them!
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
Does it really matter too much where the sub is located, given the very low 'directionless' frequencies?
And besides, PeterMJ has a Vert. Not too many other places, although I guess you could sacrifice the trunk and try to fire it through the back wall.
Hirkophoto
Viper Owner
Sorry forgot he has a Vert
Uhm no, this is actually a perfect location for a subwoofer, the closer it is to you, the less output is required to blend in with the rest of the speakers. This is a convertible, there is no cabin pressure period although this is a perfect location in any car period. The problem with trunk or hatch mounted subs is that unless you can decouple the sub from the surrounding interior and unload it efficiently, you will end up energizing the rear window and various interior trim before producing any sound, then there is a matter of delay and phase issues as well. Unless you produce some significant SPL beyond listening levels, firing forward is not a bad thing at all and considerably better than the typical rear mounted sub energizing the hatch glass, something that can and will move. This is my opinion only, of course.
Hirkophoto
Viper Owner
Guess I stand corrected.
It may make a difference regarding energizing the air if you want to produce high SPL levels, corner loading is commonly used to unload the sub in a small space instead of trying to pressurize the entire interior at once. In a convertible, the trunk can work to do this but only if you assure decoupling the sound wave from the trunk lid and then come up with an effective way to vent the base into the interior, this is a very difficult task to accomplish (I've been there a few times). Loading the sub in the front corner on the passenger side is a viable option if you do not mind having that thing there which I actually do mind, LOL. I think for my purpose, the OEM location will do great, considering I did this mainly to get rid off the rattling sub.
Bass is mainly about efficiency for output and lack of tonal archifacts that will tell your ears to localize the origin of the sound (bass). I am hoping the factory amp will do in this set up, if it does not, I can hook up a separate amp and intercept the signal from the high level sub wire (I have some line drivers around with hi level input).
I'll can say that when I had my sub in the trunk it was practically useless on my vert. Granted it was still just a little 8" guy with no porting to the cabin, but even so if you had the trunk closed and stood outside the car you didn't get much of anything. Open the trunk with the stereo on and you got a good surprise though, haha.
Well, at least you did not have to worry about keeping the trunk lid down, using 8
I had a couple of high excursion 12s in one my old drop tops and seeing the trunk lid going up and down was quite a sight. I had to build a loading board in the trunk to let the subs unload on the board instead of trunk lid, you lose efficiency but you get good bass in the interior, if the venting is set up properly. I am glad I outgrew my loud phase, haha.So... more progress...
The finished bottom (with extra mating surface for stronger bond and no issues with alignment of both parts.
and top, from the top
and from the bottom, extra support for screw location.
Bonded together and primed.
I think it should look OEM when it is painted tomorrow. Seems to me I am spending too much time on the details that will never be seen but I think structurally, this thing should survive a medium magnitude nuclear explosion.
The finished bottom (with extra mating surface for stronger bond and no issues with alignment of both parts.
You must be registered for see images
and top, from the top
You must be registered for see images
and from the bottom, extra support for screw location.
You must be registered for see images
Bonded together and primed.
You must be registered for see images
I think it should look OEM when it is painted tomorrow. Seems to me I am spending too much time on the details that will never be seen but I think structurally, this thing should survive a medium magnitude nuclear explosion.
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
So... more progress...
I think it should look OEM when it is painted tomorrow. Seems to me I am spending too much time on the details that will never be seen but I think structurally, this thing should survive a medium magnitude nuclear explosion.
Looks great so far! Curious what the finish will be like?
ohlarikd
Enthusiast
And then the sub will make the stock speakers sound bad... then you'll replace those but the amp will stink... then a new amp... and then new wires and power... and then the head unit won't produce anything clean... and then...
Just spraying with some trim semi gloss black paint, nothing fancy to keep it stock looking. So no, no carbon fiber here, LOL.
I have to use some grill cloth on the factory grills though, this woofer has the dust cap with white lettering that will look off center for sure. I am just going to glue on some cloth on the inside of the grills to make everything invisible.
Last edited:
Hey, I only motivated myself because the stock sub rattled real bad, maybe blown woofer or maybe the fancy port came loose Unless something blows, I'll be exercising self restraint. I actually cannot believe I used 8 inch driver for this. I originally had them for the doors of my C5 which I never did. C6 uses 10 inch door mids so these things were just sitting.
Unless something blows, I'll be exercising self restraint. I actually cannot believe I used 8 inch driver for this. I originally had them for the doors of my C5 which I never did. C6 uses 10 inch door mids so these things were just sitting.
All buttoned up
The install was rather uneventful and the enclosure mounted just like the old one did, it. The bass is not loosening up fillings in my teeth but it is pretty tight and balances well with the rest of the OEM system. Good thing I took some pictures since it will never be seen again.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
The install was rather uneventful and the enclosure mounted just like the old one did, it. The bass is not loosening up fillings in my teeth but it is pretty tight and balances well with the rest of the OEM system. Good thing I took some pictures since it will never be seen again.
Viktimize
Enthusiast
Feel free to make me one of these
The one I got seems to be **** so far. Thought I had the sub wires backwars because it was reverberating like a b@stard. Switched them and now it makes no sound at all. Going to play with it some more here when I get a day off. Could be a crappy amp possibly, amp was just an old Rockford I had laying in the garage.If I can do it, you can do itFeel free to make me one of these
No special skills required to build a box like this, as you can see from the build pics. I would check your sub if it is working first, measure the resistance across the terminals to make sure the voice coil is not on its way out. In or out of phase should not make that much difference. If the amp is old, maybe it is defective, assuming you covered the basic stuff like setting up the low pass filter and gain and wired the sub correctly. I tested mine on my home audio system before installing in the car.Viktimize
Enthusiast
If I can do it, you can do it
It's not the skill I'm worried about. I don't have the garage space for a bunch more tools right now. Anyway, yours is looking good. Nice work.
I took the car for a test drive and sub works pretty good, I cannot tell it is there but if I turn it off, I can tell it is not there. IMO, this is what this should be all about. The suspension on the sub needs to break in and loosen up a bit, then there should be even more output.
Afterwards, I proceed to clean up my garage because it was a mess after my fiberglassing adventures and I was rewarded by finding this:
Honestly, I have so much car audio stuff, I did not remember I had these. These are real nice high end Morel 6.5 mids and I know I have a few pairs of matching Morel tweets sitting around, so off we go again with the rest of the speakers.
Afterwards, I proceed to clean up my garage because it was a mess after my fiberglassing adventures and I was rewarded by finding this:
You must be registered for see images attach
Honestly, I have so much car audio stuff, I did not remember I had these. These are real nice high end Morel 6.5 mids and I know I have a few pairs of matching Morel tweets sitting around, so off we go again with the rest of the speakers.
Last edited:
Thanks
Die grinder, sander and sanding blocks is all I used. You can easily knock it out in the backyard.
