Radiators - The latest and greatest?

Chuck 98 RT/10

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At 120,000 miles it looks like I've developed a slow leak. So what are the options? Stock or aftermarket? Rebuild? In the past there have been some complaints about a certain aftermarket manufacturer. All suggestions welcome, if you have personal experience even better.

I want durability. Something that will last.

I know there a search function but products get better or worse over time so I'd like to know past and present opinions.
 

HHI VIPER

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I had a Ron Davis puke on me after about 2K miles but they replaced it with a new design that they came out right about the time mine went last year. I have about 5K on this one with no issues. RD said they reinforced an area on the new design that seemed to be a problem with Vipers. This one bolts right in with no modifications. Without getting into a long story, RD and JonB went out of their way's to make things right!! :2tu:
 

Leslie

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you're stock one lasted 120K miles?

I don't see anything wrong with my stock GenII radiator, as long as I keep it cleaned out of the track critters it is doing a great job.

I had some overheating issues for awhile there, but now I run a distilled water/water wetter/coolant mix and put a t stat on it and now I am around 160 on the highway and barely 210 on a hot day at the track.
 

Dan Cragin

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In the past I have not had good luck with aftermarket aluminum radiators, even when rubber mounted they tend to leak over time.

I prefer to have the production radiator recored with a turbulated flow core. Does the job and seems to last longer.
 

dave6666

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I used the stocker, RDR, and now I'm on the new Roe. To me, the most impressive for cooling capacity has been the stocker.

My next move is a Fluidyne with the DC fan mod.

This is very important here. It takes 150% of the surface area of your factory copper radiator to equal it in aluminum. That is why the RDR and the Roe do not out cool the OE. The Fluidyne I believe will exceed the 150% threshold and actually have additional heat exchanging capacity.

Dave, chemical process industry, in... :sun: :tx: :sun:
 
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Chuck 98 RT/10

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I prefer to have the production radiator recored with a turbulated flow core. Does the job and seems to last longer.

Please elaborate. Recommendations on turbulated cores and manufacturers? Who can do the work? Is it something a relatively skilled motorhead can do himself?
 
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Chuck 98 RT/10

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I used the stocker, RDR, and now I'm on the new Roe. To me, the most impressive for cooling capacity has been the stocker.

My next move is a Fluidyne with the DC fan mod.

This is very important here. It takes 150% of the surface area of your factory copper radiator to equal it in aluminum. That is why the RDR and the Roe do not out cool the OE. The Fluidyne I believe will exceed the 150% threshold and actually have additional heat exchanging capacity.

Dave, chemical process industry, in... :sun: :tx: :sun:


Great info Dave. Is the Fluidyne copper or aluminum?
 

dave6666

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Great info Dave. Is the Fluidyne copper or aluminum?

The Fluidyne is aluminum.

The magic factor here, is thermal conductivity. The ability of the substrate - aluminum or copper - to transfer heat from the engine coolant to the air.

Given the link below...

Thermal Conductivity of Metals

...and using pure aluminum (200* F) and pure copper (572* F), the factor is 1.8, or 180%.

Those figure are probably not 100% usable as-is, because they may not be using pure copper or pure aluminum, nor are the relationships here purely linear, but ya ever wonder why the OE's use copper???
 

dave6666

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OK. So as I continue to evaluate Gen 2 cooling here in :tx:, an opinion less technical and more value/performance related. Please understand, and this is VERY important, that a car stuck idling in and traffic and a car doing 90 on the track, both in 100 deg summer heat, ain't on the same page! Been there, done both!

-> My car - 2001 GTS with new water pump, 180* stat, Roe fascia duct, Prestone ELC 50/50 with (2) Redline WW - regardless or the radiators I have used, will not reach a coolant temp near 180* at speeds below 70mph when air temps are 80-ish plus.

Moral of above - air speed matters!

-> Aluminum radiators are a good product. They work. But will not solve a cooling problem unless you exceed the heat exchanging capacity of what you already have. People that have cooling problems solved by an aluminum radiator may likely have had a plugged or otherwise inefficient core to start with.

Moral of above - unless you just like replacing everything at once like I did, be sure you know what the problem is before you decide that a new aluminum radiator is your Godsend. BTW, I had no cooling problem, I just like wrenching and spending.

-> The weight savings of the aluminum radiators is a couple pounds. They are thicker, hold a little more fluid, so what you save in metal weight you add back in fluid weight. And no, the added fluid adds no heat exchanging properties if there's no better heat exchanger.

Moral of above - aluminum radiators are not gonna improve your lap times...

I'm bound to think of more. Heat transfer is inclusive to my field.
 
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Chuck 98 RT/10

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Thanks again Dave. I don't have a cooling problem on the RT/10, just a slow leak. I think a new stocker is the way to go and then I can rebuild the old one for the GTS in case I need it.
 

Tom F&L GoR

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OK. So as I continue to evaluate Gen 2 cooling here in :tx:, an opinion less technical and more value/performance related. Please understand, and this is VERY important, that a car stuck idling in and traffic and a car doing 90 on the track, both in 100 deg summer heat, ain't on the same page! Been there, done both!

What were the other cars doing?
 

2000_Black_RT10

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OK. So as I continue to evaluate Gen 2 cooling here in :tx:, an opinion less technical and more value/performance related. Please understand, and this is VERY important, that a car stuck idling in and traffic and a car doing 90 on the track, both in 100 deg summer heat, ain't on the same page! Been there, done both!

-> My car - 2001 GTS with new water pump, 180* stat, Roe fascia duct, Prestone ELC 50/50 with (2) Redline WW - regardless or the radiators I have used, will not reach a coolant temp near 180* at speeds below 70mph when air temps are 80-ish plus.

Moral of above - air speed matters!

-> Aluminum radiators are a good product. They work. But will not solve a cooling problem unless you exceed the heat exchanging capacity of what you already have. People that have cooling problems solved by an aluminum radiator may likely have had a plugged or otherwise inefficient core to start with.

Moral of above - unless you just like replacing everything at once like I did, be sure you know what the problem is before you decide that a new aluminum radiator is your Godsend. BTW, I had no cooling problem, I just like wrenching and spending.

-> The weight savings of the aluminum radiators is a couple pounds. They are thicker, hold a little more fluid, so what you save in metal weight you add back in fluid weight. And no, the added fluid adds no heat exchanging properties if there's no better heat exchanger.

Moral of above - aluminum radiators are not gonna improve your lap times...

I'm bound to think of more. Heat transfer is inclusive to my field.

Don't forget fans..
 

1BADGTS

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In the past I have not had good luck with aftermarket aluminum radiators, even when rubber mounted they tend to leak over time.

I prefer to have the production radiator recored with a turbulated flow core. Does the job and seems to last longer.
Dan did this for me on my GEN 2 and it worked very well.
 

dave6666

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Wouldn't the 50MPH difference have caused some air swirl around your car and affected flow into the radiator? Maybe the cooling system you designed was actually highly effective since it had to operate in a near vacuum?

True... true... But I think if you factor in all of the yellow cars behind me (another 80 mph difference), that they were using all of this vacuum created by the RED cars that I was proudly following. Hence, during my test, self canceling pressure phenomenas.
 

plumcrazy

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dang Noobs not using the search feature...lol

i like the idea of reworking the OEM one. more details and pics of it would be great.
 

BOTTLEFED

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I used the stocker, RDR, and now I'm on the new Roe. To me, the most impressive for cooling capacity has been the stocker.

My next move is a Fluidyne with the DC fan mod.

This is very important here. It takes 150% of the surface area of your factory copper radiator to equal it in aluminum. That is why the RDR and the Roe do not out cool the OE. The Fluidyne I believe will exceed the 150% threshold and actually have additional heat exchanging capacity.

Dave, chemical process industry, in... :sun: :tx: :sun:
Great info Dave!
:2tu:

I think I will take my stocker out and have it cleaned and rodded this off-season.
I thought I needed an aftermarket aluminum radiator. I don't have bad over-heating issues, but it would be nice to get it working 100% and then see how well it cools. I will be checking the water pump for problems as well.
 

Leslie

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I think I will take my stocker out and have it cleaned and rodded this off-season.
I thought I needed an aftermarket aluminum radiator. I don't have bad over-heating issues, but it would be nice to get it working 100% and then see how well it cools. I will be checking the water pump for problems as well.

you will be shocked at how much gets pulled into the radiator, taking it completely out and cleaning it will do a lot.
 

Sweet Ride

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I agree. If someone would offer up a package on this with specs I bet there would be some takers. I know that you can fit a 3 core system in the stock tanks. And I have a stock unit to use for this.

Vendors...?

My local shop said they could do a copper 3 core with stock tanks for around $500. I believe when I asked, they said it was about 1/2" thicker than stock. I'll call 'em up and get some more info.

I have a stock one sitting around that could be used as a test mule.
 

Sweet Ride

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As do I.

TX vs. AZ Summer Meltdown 2010 in the making?

Sounds like a challenge!!!

As an addition to the copper vs alumnium debate, my radiator shop has mentioned that copper radiators can be rebuilt far easier and cheaper than aluminum should you ever spring a leak.
 

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