Tom F&L GoR
Enthusiast
The non-ABS rear calipers have a left and right side. Internally, they are also left and right, since the calipers are mirror images of each other. However, the bolt attaching the brake arm is always right hand.
What this means is that you can safely rotate (tighten) the parking brake arm bolt by using a wrench towards the casting, but not away from the casting. If you need to rotate (tighten or loosen) away from casting, use visegrips or something to hold onto the arm itself. Do not rely on the internal parts to hold against your wrench.
The internal parts can't be purchased. The broken parts may be the plastic cage for the ball bearing or the snap ring against which the parking brake mechanism pushes and pulls against the engage and disengage. In all cases, the caliper will still behave as a hydraulic brake, but not a mechanical one.
Here is an example of the snap ring when it gets pulled through. If it is not flat, the symptoms are that the piston will not retract when rotating it with the dimples, nor will it extend when rotating the brake arm.
The brake arm is not that stiffly sprung that you can't rotate it with a glove on your hand. Also, for similar reasons, when removing the caliper, please don't even take the arm off; use pliers to pull on the ball end of the parking brake cable and unhook it from the arm. It's easier than it looks.
Dodge charges $450 per caliper. Yes, you can screw me by sending them in as cores. If I have extra parts (not always likely) I'll be OK, but if not, it's a caliper I can't rebuild. But it's just as easy not to do it in the first place.
I'm available for any questions about these calipers. Just because Dodge didn't put instructions in the service manual doesn't mean we can't fix 'em.
What this means is that you can safely rotate (tighten) the parking brake arm bolt by using a wrench towards the casting, but not away from the casting. If you need to rotate (tighten or loosen) away from casting, use visegrips or something to hold onto the arm itself. Do not rely on the internal parts to hold against your wrench.
The internal parts can't be purchased. The broken parts may be the plastic cage for the ball bearing or the snap ring against which the parking brake mechanism pushes and pulls against the engage and disengage. In all cases, the caliper will still behave as a hydraulic brake, but not a mechanical one.
Here is an example of the snap ring when it gets pulled through. If it is not flat, the symptoms are that the piston will not retract when rotating it with the dimples, nor will it extend when rotating the brake arm.
The brake arm is not that stiffly sprung that you can't rotate it with a glove on your hand. Also, for similar reasons, when removing the caliper, please don't even take the arm off; use pliers to pull on the ball end of the parking brake cable and unhook it from the arm. It's easier than it looks.
Dodge charges $450 per caliper. Yes, you can screw me by sending them in as cores. If I have extra parts (not always likely) I'll be OK, but if not, it's a caliper I can't rebuild. But it's just as easy not to do it in the first place.
I'm available for any questions about these calipers. Just because Dodge didn't put instructions in the service manual doesn't mean we can't fix 'em.
I rebuilt mine 
