Bob,
What kind of cold and hot pressure have you found the R6's like?
You should shoot for 35-37 hot. I've found that if you measure the pressures after coming in, you've already lost a pound or two so I try to get 35 in the paddock (or 37 if I'm lucky enough to talk someone into taking pressures and temps in the hot pit. If you get to 40+ the car will slide like a puck....so its kinda a fine line.
To get there is more art than science. (you can calculate all you want with PV=NRT, but it never seems to work well in practice)
Using air**, I find starting in the mid 20's with a 2 pound difference front-to-back often works. Since its already gonna be hot outside, try 28/26 F/R to start and give them a lap or two to heat up before you really push it. Measure when you come in and then adjust up or down from there. Being a clockwise track that's not too ******* the brakes, RA often responds well with an extra pound in the right rear (as it only gets pounded in 5 and 10A) for example, starting cold pressures of 28 in the front, 26 LR and 27 RR. I recommend keeping a logbook or at least scrap paper to write this stuff down, its amazing how one can't remember 4 numbers for 30 minutes, but memory doesn't work well for me anymore.
Also a good idea (and not too expensive) to get a pyrometer for taking tire temps. Its actually a more telling analytic about how your tires are behaving.
(**Using nitrogen, start 33/31 F/R.... I avoid nitrogen just because of the hassle factor. It works great and is certainly more predictable than air BUT someone is always putting a little air in there (not remembering they're nitrogen-filled) and then with an unknown mixture of air and nitrogen one's judgment-based adjustment system is all out of whack.)
Good luck with it - see you in a couple of weeks.