Roe fan switch issue

[Ryu Hyabuza]

So I received a used Roe fan switch a couple days ago and installed it. Pretty straight forward. Dark Green wire spliced caused horn to engage constantly. Looked at owners service manual schematics for fans and “Light Green” wire was the fan wire for my gen 1 so it was spliced. Tried the fans again, parking lights came on. Checked continuity for the wires to the fans and there’s continuity. Fans are not turning on with the turn of the switch. I’ll be checking the fans tomorrow to make sure they still work but this is confusing me a tad.

 

[Goggles Pizano]

I'm assuming the switch is supposed to activate the relay the PCM activates to activate the fans.

And I would always first understand what and how something is supposed to work and how it is doing it before doing anything. Second, I would then trace the factory wire to where it going to confirm it is correct before splitting.

 

[Ryu Hyabuza]

I'm assuming the switch is supposed to activate the relay the PCM activates to activate the fans.

And I would always first understand what and how something is supposed to work and how it is doing it before doing anything. Second, I would then trace the factory wire to where it going to confirm it is correct before splitting.

I already did that as well as confirmed the wiring instructions directions and used a multimeter to confirm continuity directly at the fan connection and the splice last night

 

[Goggles Pizano]

Can you post the wiring diagram you have from your service manual since it is a Gen1. I only have 97 and 98s.

 

[Ryu Hyabuza]

Can you post the wiring diagram you have from your service manual since it is a Gen1. I only have 97 and 98s.

As you can see, the top half of the page is the 2 fans and there’s only the LG (Light Green) and BK (Black) for ground when the instructions state Dark Green on step 5 and I also located the horn schematic and the horn is “Dark Green” just to verify why the horn went off on the initial splice.

 

[Goggles Pizano]

That Roe instructions is for Gen2 cars that have lo/hi 2 speed fans.

Per your book, you only have 1 input to the fans and you probably tapped into the wrong LG wire. The fan wire will be 14 gauge.

I would tap it at the fan connector to make your life easy or trace the fan connector back to the fan relay at the toe box and instead of splicing, buy a breakout plug (forgot exactly the name) that you plug the OEM relay into but you wire the external to the plug too.

 

[Ryu Hyabuza]

That Roe instructions is for Gen2 cars that have lo/hi 2 speed fans.

Per your book, you only have 1 input to the fans and you probably tapped into the wrong LG wire. The fan wire will be 14 gauge.

I would tap it at the fan connector to make your life easy or trace the fan connector back to the fan relay at the toe box and instead of splicing, buy a breakout plug (forgot exactly the name) that you plug the OEM relay into but you wire the external to the plug too.

Oh I know. LoL I spliced from the connector at the fans. There was only 1 dark green and light green wires from the loom just in front of the engine. The fans turn on perfectly. I only have to fine tune when the fans come on. The rest is complete.

 

[Ryu Hyabuza]

I’ve got a new issue now LoL. Everything’s connected and I’m in the adjusting portion of the fan switch for where I want them to kick on. Got the fans to kick on between 190-210hash marks by turning the dial. That was about 30 minutes ago and the fans are still going. I didn’t drive her, I only ran her to get her to operating temp to adjust the dial. After that, shut her down. Fans won’t stop. I’ve made a mark where the dial needs to go for when I’m driving but until I figure out why the control module isn’t shutting down after the sensor has reached the shut off temp, I have to manually turn the fans off. Any advice from the community? She’s a gen 1 93 antenna car.

 

[Goggles Pizano]

How do you know what the sensor temp is? You are assuming it is below the setting on the module.

I would disconnect the wire to the fans, put a voltage meter or test light on it, run the car let it come to temp and see when the test light turns on. Shut car down come after 1 hour and 2 hours and see if test light is on still.

 

[Ryu Hyabuza]

How do you know what the sensor temp is? You are assuming it is below the setting on the module.

I would disconnect the wire to the fans, put a voltage meter or test light on it, run the car let it come to temp and see when the test light turns on. Shut car down come after 1 hour and 2 hours and see if test light is on still.

Yeah I know what the coolant temp sensor is. If it was inop, the fans wouldn’t come on at all because the sensor wouldn’t be able to tell what the temp of the coolant is to send the signal the the PCM/ECU to turn them on. The fans come on like normal. Which tells me the sensor is still functioning.

 

[Goggles Pizano]

Yeah I know what the coolant temp sensor is. If it was inop, the fans wouldn’t come on at all because the sensor wouldn’t be able to tell what the temp of the coolant is to send the signal the the PCM/ECU to turn them on. The fans come on like normal. Which tells me the sensor is still functioning.

You know the Roe has it's own sensor right? The PCM nor the engine coolant sensor in the block has nothing to do with the Roe module.

 

[Ryu Hyabuza]

You know the Roe has it's own sensor right? The PCM nor the engine coolant sensor in the block has nothing to do with the Roe module.

Correct. That should bypass anything the coolant temp sensor says (which wouldn’t activate until near redline anyways) but I can treat the Roe sensor like a thermostat and put it in boiling water (like one would do to see if the t stat would open at the proper temp) to see if it activates at the proper settings