Roe racing ported heads and 710 cam plus sct tune????

[Twister]

The fire and extremely hot sills are gone. That was fron the loose spark plug wire and the engine dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust. Lets put it like this. I did 15 back to back quarter mile passes and the sills stayed nice and kool. No fire ect.

Cash... lifter is the same thing as rockers right?

Ive got Arrow roller rockers (wich are actually just harland sharp roller rockers adjusted to work on an srt10) same pushrod length as stock srt10 length pushrods but the Harland Sharps are noisier than stock. So this is why I think my valve train is still a little noisy. the Arrow (Harland Sharp) roller rockers are a waste of money on an srt10 IMHO....

I bought the beehive spring kit from Roe Racing. My mechanic said that he would have suggested a stronger spring up to 650 lift vs the up to 600 lift that roe racing sells as the beehive springs. But hey its done now.

 

[Twister]

BTW after the quarter mile passes Ive got a really good hunch on what shell dyno this saturday.

stock cam was 485 rwhp and 520 rwt

comp coupe cam was 495 rwhp and 540 rwt

Id bet money she'll hit 520 rwhp and 530 rwt this saturday based on my quartermile log

 

[cash84]

Okay I forgot to ask too, I know you were bumping up the compression to 9.9:1 and you got the thinner headgaskets right? This will vary on pushrod length but not sure how that works on the roller rockers but on stock rockers it's 7.600 (calibered at 7.596) that roe racing gives ya. Old stock pushrods are actually 7.644. So the old pushrods won't work on mine since I did use adjustable pushrod length checker and believe it came out to 7.590".

No lifters are also called tappers which is what rides on the camshaft to push the pushrod up. I was told by my machinist and said rockers usually a waste unless you have money to burn.

The .600 beehive springs are just fine unless you plan on going for a bigger cam which ain't so much streetable IMHO.

I think you should be around 550rwhp

 

[Twister]

Na... Trust me the way shes sittin right now shes 520-525 rwhp. Ive got around 200 quarter passes in this car. The data from my runs last night is tellen me I picked up 25-30 rwhp over the comp coupe cam (wich equates to 30-35 rwhp over the stock cam)

Being extremely generous because I had 30 pounds of car parts inthe trunk and a full tank of gas verses my normally prepared quarter tank for quartermilin itspossible that quartermile data could show a 530 rwhp dyno but highly unlikely.

Not to concerned.

With the comp coupe camshaft Sean sent my first tune and she only dynoed 465 rwhp. He adjusted for the afr and my second tune yielded 495 rwhp.


I think by the second tune it will be 535 rwhp plus. That would be a 50 rwhp gain over the stock camshafts 485 rwhp.

Cash your car has more compression and slight head work. No way Ill be close to your 585 rwhp. Man you should add headers and eclipse 600 rwhp!

 

[plumcrazy]

sounding like a good investment in HP so far

 

[Twister]

Yep... Anytime you can do a modification and right off the bat see improvement through the quarter you cant complain.

My only regret is I wish I woulda went straight from the stock cam to the 710 cam. Not that I dont like the comp coupe camshaft. Its an awesome camshaft and despite giving just 5-10 peak rwhp it gives 20 plus rwhp through the curve and actually makes your viper faster.


But the fact that I already had the comp coupe camshaft is kinda spoiling it for me. If I had been on the stock camshaft all this time and installed the 710 cam and trapped 3-4 mph higher than the stock cam last night Id be jumping for joy. In stead I was 2 mph above the comp coupe cam.




Im talking about it so much that I might as well post the graph!

 

[Twister]

Edited.....

 

[viperJ]

Twister or Cash, I need some help and had some questions about the 710 CAM. I am going to be going to this set up soon but had concerns. Can either one of you contact me in regards to this since you have already done your set up. Please let me know. Thanks.

 

[jknappster]

Does the 710 cam require higher than OEM spring rates?

 

[speedracervr4]

Yes you will require a valve spring upgrade.

 

[ssjcreeper]

Twister has gone out fellas, like a blister in the sun. He no longer frequents these boards. I can speak to Greg Good's Comp Cam grind in that it requires higher spring rates. Shaft-mounted roller rockers are also highly recommended if not required. My guess is you will need to upgrade similarly for the 710, but I would defer to Roe to answer that for certain.

 

[NO HEMI]

Hmm that was an unexpected ending!??

 

[Mr. Bill]

gotta take the heads off to get the cam done, might as well do them while you are in there. its kinds dumb not too. but it easy for ME to spend YOUR money too.

if you go to do heads later, the cost of labor is pretty much the same as what you are paying now to do just the cam, youre getting the labor to do heads for free now plus ANOTHER dyno and tune........

Wait? Is that right? You have to remove the heads to swap a cam??

 

[V3NOMOUS]

Personally I would talk to Todd at a&c performance he's been working on a cnc head swap program and cam grinds.With Todd's goodies and him tuning it's not hard at all to achieve north of 600rwhp. Just a personal experience though,
The crew at roe are great and very knowledgeable but I picked up 100rwhp with Todd's tuning vs roes tuning on my 06 s/c coupe! Final numbers were 670rwhp and Todd tells me there's no prob matching those number with n/a build with his package, not to mention his service is bar none! It's got me thinking of ditching the paxton ... Or doing both

 

[Viper Specialty]

Wait? Is that right? You have to remove the heads to swap a cam??

Yes, that is correct. There is a workaround involving Magnets so you can pull up the lifters and hold them away from the cam, but it is rather risky- you drop one and you are doing it anyway.

We offer a specially designed version of MLS head gaskets which allow you to remove the lifters with the heads still in place, so you won't have to do it again.