Roller rockers

[SUN RA KAT]

I've re-read the posts on roller rockers found by using the search feature and, again I end up confused. There are some pretty heated discussions on T&D vs Arrow or other brands that looked like there would have been fisticuffs if the posters were in the same room.

I have a street driven Roe Supercharged 2002 Viper GTS with the usual mods - Roe smooth tubes, S&B filters, Belanger Headers, Random Tech Ultra High Flow (525+ HP) Cats, Corsa 3" cat back, 70 mm throttle bodies, and soon the VEC2. I don't plan on drag racing or road racing - just frisky frolicking (posing) driving for fun. I may run the car to 6,000 RPMs occasionally, but usually shift at 4,000 - 5,500 RPMs max. I like to cruise between 1,500 - 2,500 RPMs.

It's been almost a year since this subject was brought up at length and I'd like the insight and experiences of the last year on which roller rockers you'd advise me to get and why. I also notice that T&D offers a 1.75 ratio roller as well - would my Viper be happy with it over the standard 1.7? And what other things would I probably be needing, such as new different length pushrods?

 

[J DAWG]

First of all you are doing your car a great disservice if you don't hit 6 grand at least once a day. It needs lots of fresh air just as we do.

Now with that said, I have also been actively looking & researching this as well and I am purchasing the T&D's. It just seems more tuners utilize them in their setups which makes me feel more comfortable(maybe not a very good reason).

I also believe Sean used them when testing the s/c. I wasn't aware there was a longer version. I am not sure what the clearances are and whether or not they would work. But if there is no physical limitation with clearances then I would assume more lift = more fuel and with your induction would yield more power.

Is someone selling the 1.75's?

 

[Vipermed 97.01]

Arrows are very good rockers, T&Ds are great,if you plan on doing a lot of high RPM racing/driving then T&Ds(aka mopar) will never let you down,Arrows are also very well built but more for the street, occasional racer

 

[Jack B]

Read the tech support section at the "Comp Cam" web site. There is a great section on valve train geometry. Even if you shift at a lower rpm there is a possibility of missing a shift. The following is only an opinion, a single shaft or in the case of the T&D's, a single stand is always better than a stud or segmented/quasi shaft arrangement.

One thing for sure, after your install - you will wonder how the stock rockers can handle 6000 rpm. Whether you HAVE to change the push rods is not the issue, the stock rods are a multiple piece assembly. A one piece design is more reliable. The Trick Flows, from Summit are $125. `

The length of the rod MAY change from stock. This is dependent on your engine's specific valve train geometry (post T&D set-up). My car started out with a 7.650 (black strip) rod and stayed the same after the T&D install. I did install to the Trick Flow rods. If you read the "Comp Cam" white paper you will see why you have to install a rod to accurately measure its fit. You can start with the old rod or an adjustable test rod to ascertain if you have to change length.

 

[1TONY1]

I installed a set of Arrows last week on someone elses car. They looked nice and I believe they will be as durable as stock. The early problems with Arrows rockers have been taken care of. That said they probably are not as good as t&d's but for the $$$ who knows. I would say it depends on how hard you are going to run the car. fyi....the Arrows are pretty much the same as a big block chevy rocker until you get into the high dollar stuff. I understand they are made by Harland Sharp...I ran those on a bbc for years with no problems.

 

[SUN RA KAT]

I think Sean used the Arrow rollers on his car when he went from stock to 1.7 rollers - at least that's what each of his dyno sheets posted here had on them.

 

[SEASNAKE]

I had over 30000 miles on crower rockers without any problems, and no sign of wear on the rockers. This included road racing, drag racing (with 200 shot of nitrous) and much daily driving. What concerned me with these was the possibility of a missed shift in the down direction (1st instead of 3rd at 90)at high speeds.

I have also put 17K miles on arrow rockers (they made a little more torque than the crowers) without any problems. They take a little more technical ability to install than the crowers. I had to switch rods in my '01 car in order to adjust the rockers correctly.

 

[99 R/T 10]

Hey Tony,
I want to do a set of Arrows on my car and hope to do the install myself. How difficult was it?

 

[Geoff Green]

What does T&D stand for?

 

[1TONY1]

Hey Tony,
I want to do a set of Arrows on my car and hope to do the install myself. How difficult was it?

Wasn't to bad. When you get close give me a call.

 

[99 R/T 10]

ThanksTony, will do. I hope to do this in a month or so.

 

[SneakyPete]

Sean used Arrow 1.7 RR's on his 96. half the price, produces good power and good for the street.

I ended up going T&D 1.7 RR's, because I drive my car very hard and love winding that sucker up to 6000 RPM's and letting of gas peddle and listening to the back thrust of the motor/exhaust as you are giving the people next to you in the convertable the ear *******!

For your driving habbits, go with the arrow's and get the 70 mm TB's, 4 inch intake tubes and air box, all for the same price of just the T&D's. Or save the difference and start saving for ported stage 2 heads and high lift cam-thats where the real fun is. That is what I am going to do next.

 

[J DAWG]

So do people feel the Arrows aren't as durable or can't stand the higher rpm's or do they just not make as much hp?