Rythmic knock when accelling

[PootyP]

No i am areeing that we if we can are going to do that exactly, pan is pulled and brgs are out. Guessing he wants to do some more chking and the main reason to rebuild is if there is debris in the oil that will cycle through and do more damage. Hard particles i believ will just start to wear on engine where it is the softest, the bearings. I believe we will try to
Just do a brg swap but you know how it is, im at my limit with bolt ons and of course want more power so if i need an excuse to build this baby back up and add 100 horse or so i might be game but yall are right 10-12k is a lil rediculous for possible 100 hp when i could get twice that with a paxton for 70% of the cost. This also scares me from a paxton bc these problem come from basic stocker cant imagine the bs of adding a paxton to engine what i will break next.
I have to bargain with wifey as is for this car cant imagine if i started tearin up **** left and right.

Any how wont know for sure my path forward until monday but will keep yall posted

 

[jckrieger]

If the bearings truely "spun", you MUST remove those connecting rods and have them re-sized. Even if the crank is fine, the bearing's back material will wear your rod so it doesn't hold the new bearing correctly. Pull the heads, pop out those pistons, and spend the $120 to do it right. Now if the bearings didn't actually spin, and if they're just hammered a bit... you might be lucky enough to get away with new rod bearings and a good flush of the lube system.

Just to let you know, I'm not somebody who has tons of money. I build my own engines, and they're usually 4cyl turbo motors for old 80's Dodges. If I would check the rods on an Omni, I would hope you'd take similar caution on a Viper!

 

[PootyP]

Thanks man i really appreciate the info.
I will ask that question to my guy. Though he is the best in my area and i would trust what he told me i needed to do no matter how cheap or costly. I really trust him.

 

[jckrieger]

Thanks man i really appreciate the info.
I will ask that question to my guy. Though he is the best in my area and i would trust what he told me i needed to do no matter how cheap or costly. I really trust him.

If you've got a reputable builder, he shouldn't try to steer you in the wrong direction. I mean, it's not like it's not in his financial best interest to do the job right the first time!

 

[EllowViper]

Yes. You can change crank and rod bearing with the engine in the car. Service manual has the procedure and special crank bearing tool to rotate the mains out one at a time. Main issue will be in getting stock sized mains. For the GEN-II, I know you can't get stock sized mains anymore, can get .001 undersized as the closest to stock. Not sure about GEN-III mains. I say go for it if the journals are OK.

 

[PootyP]

I believe mains are fine. Its the rod brgs. My guy is checkin with clevite on the bearings and we will try to polish journals if necessarry. I have decided to go with the non rebuild route if possible. Shoot as is i can spin tires through 2nd gear and can get to 100 as fast as any car pending on the driver. I have decided after this incidence to stay away from the track and just keep harassing people in SS and mustangs and any others i run up on here in baton rouge until i get my ask handed to me by someone. But really wont know what i am doing as far as rebuild 100% till later. But as for now we are looking to do bearing swap. And if i need more hp ill have to beg my ol lady to accept it

 

[jckrieger]

Have your mechanic measure the rod journals with a micrometer. I've had cranks that looked fine after a bad bearing and had over .005" of wear. If your bearing clearances are .005" out, you're going to run into the same problem again, even if the journal is polished. There's a good chance they'll be in spec, but take the extra 5 minutes and make sure they're right.

 

[bluesrt]

you have to remove the crank and have it polished or it will knock the bearings out in about 15 miles.... use clevit 77 bearings

 

[STUGOTS]

Mines at Tators as we speak for a spun rod (#10) full rebuild and an excuse to do some upgrades while hes in there lol.

TowDawg: very informative post, im actually going to call a local dodge dealer with my vin and see if I have a warranty, YOU sir may have just saved me $8k lol

 

[TowDawg]

Mines at Tators as we speak for a spun rod (#10) full rebuild and an excuse to do some upgrades while hes in there lol.

TowDawg: very informative post, im actually going to call a local dodge dealer with my vin and see if I have a warranty, YOU sir may have just saved me $8k lol

Hopefully it works out for you! The only problem is there will be no "upgrades" if it is under warranty. Still nice to save some money so I can build it 100% when the time comes though.

I got really lucky that mine did indeed have the 7/70 and I took it in for the spun bearing with 1 month left on the warranty! Whew!

 

[PootyP]

Update
Apparently my guy has been in contact with clevite and has ordered some bearings. $600.00
Havent gotten to talk to him much about it but looks like its gonna be a bearing swap.