Should I beat this?

prevnine11ownr

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My buddy just put a 100 shot NX on his 97 Vette.. He has exhaust and a few bolt on mods.. I run high 11's? Waddya think? We would def go from a roll? Thanks!
 

Snake Bitten

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How much torque did he plant...hp is just trophy...torque is what shreds tires and wins races...and I'm sure he's lacking in that department...You're probably planting around 470 rwtq...He's probably got 3.42's verses your 3.07's...but you'll embarrass him...and he'll jet up...
 

fluffy

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If it's a 6 speed and if he can drive, and you make the smallest mistake, you'll lose. Otherwise it will probably be a very close tie. 410 rwhp in a 6-sp vette is good for high 11s. If it's an automatic and he has a high stall converter he will be in the mid 11s.
 

AJ

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uh oh. torque does not win races. sorry. any race that goes (and stays) over 5000 rpms is won by hp.

torque will help you get there (5000 rpms), but once you are there, everything else equal the one with more hp wins.

the race will be close. race him from a dig.

alex
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few other cars
 

BigCarrot

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Should be a close race. If he's got much of anything done, he'll beat you. On a stocke Vette, a 100 shot will come real close.
 

Mopar

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How much torque did he plant...hp is just trophy...torque is what shreds tires and wins races...

If torque is ALL that mattered people would be racing Diesels. Hp IS a factor, but really compes into play at upper rpms.
 

PRVT JET

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A guy I know at the track, had a 2000 c5, auto w/tq conv., heads, cam and a nx 100 shot. He ran 11.7 at 120 on drag radials.

Isaac
 

fluffy

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That should be a 530rwhp, 3250 lb car. Something is seriously wrong if he's only running 11.7, especially with an auto. That should be a 10 second car.
 

BigCarrot

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That should be a 530rwhp, 3250 lb car. Something is seriously wrong if he's only running 11.7, especially with an auto. That should be a 10 second car.

Definitely! My last Vette had a mild converter, 3.42 gears, cold air intake, and cat-back, and with a 150 shot I did 11.20. I spun pretty badly on the one run I got, so I'm confident 10's would have been no prob.
 

fluffy

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You'd think...but vettes are grossly underpowered...
No, what I mean is a standard head/cam/bolt-on vette is putting down 430 - 450 rwhp. Add a 100 shot on top of that and it's pushing 530 at the wheels. Sticky tires and a converter will put a head/cam/100nx vette into the 10s.
 

V10 MOJO

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so with the NX he s puting down 410RWHP did i read it correctly, if so, im no expert but id say you got em if you hit everything just right.
 

Fast Freddy

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my money is on the viper. not shure how much experience this guy has with the squeeze. i got it on my drag camaro, my drag bike and my drag boat. i have run over 500 lbs. of the juice thru my drag boat (big block chevy) in the last 7 years. it took me a while to master the stuff. i have never had a problem with the stuff as far as smokin my engine, but i will tell u this: once u got it down its all about the bottle pressure. if he has everything tuned right for 1067 lbs. of pressure (97 degrees of bottle temp.) then it will be very close. could go either way in that case. it will all come down to the launch. but if he hits the button out of the hole his skinnier tires will smoke harder than yours and u will have him with a hole shot. good luck man and let me know how it goes.
 

GARY J

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It's gonna be really close. I raced a c5 with a 150 shot from a roll and he pulled me pretty good. Take 50 hp from him and it would be pretty close. think it depends on how well the both of you can drive your cars.
 

Snake Bitten

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So said Snake Bitten

You'll smoke him...bad...He might have been planting 300 rwhp with stock...maybe...

Roast him...try and start in 2nd gear...around 55 mph...

So said Lee00blacksilverGTS

Listen to the man from MN, he's so right! But listen well, 50-60 mph roll, second gear, NOT third.


One of my favorite pastimes...almost better than sex...almost! :cool:


This ain't even gonna be close...REPORT BACK!
 

phiebert

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but i will tell u this: once u got it down its all about the bottle pressure. if he has everything tuned right for 1067 lbs. of pressure (97 degrees of bottle temp.) then it will be very close. could go either way in that case. it will all come down to the launch. but if he hits the button out of the hole his skinnier tires will smoke harder than yours and u will have him with a hole shot. good luck man and let me know how it goes.

Finally someone with Nitrous experience talking! The Vette can beat you if he knows how to use his gas. It took me quite a while of experimenting with different thermostats to get the bottle pressure where I get tons of torque/HP while being reasonably safe. Then it took me a lot longer to figure out how to race with it. If your buddy understands what he needs to do to hook up and then take advantage of the power he might take you. He has a lighter car with similar power, that's the bottom line. If he doesn't spin too much you could be in trouble. Rolling start or not, it's about power to weight ratio and traction, like all races.
 

Snakester

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One big difference is that MANY Corvette owners are regularly running drag radials (which some consider "stock"), but getting the power down is the key here, and if he has drag radials and a 100 shot, putting down 410RWHP, I think that he will beat you from a standing start, and it will be close from a roll. Depending greatly on his (and your)driving skills.

Take a few minutes to look at some of the signature times of the car on the Corvetteforum. There are some cars with stall converters, bolt-on mods, and heads/cam or N20 making 410RWHP and running 10s in the quarter mile.

Run him for fun and see. :laugh:

-Dean.
 

Fast Freddy

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i get my bottle up 2 temp by pre heating them with the air heater in my truck. then i maintain that temp with a nos bottle heater kit wired to my race ride, i take the thermostats out of the heater kit and toss em in the garbage. i hard wire the heater so either it is on our off, this way i get the bottle as hot as i want it and regulate the flutuations in temp myself. the only problem with this is that if u forget 2 check your temp and turn it off u could over heat your bottle and blow your ride sky high. ay chihuahua!!! so don't be drinkin and drivin. lol!
 

phiebert

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i get my bottle up 2 temp by pre heating them with the air heater in my truck. then i maintain that temp with a nos bottle heater kit wired to my race ride, i take the thermostats out of the heater kit and toss em in the garbage. i hard wire the heater so either it is on our off, this way i get the bottle as hot as i want it and regulate the flutuations in temp myself. the only problem with this is that if u forget 2 check your temp and turn it off u could over heat your bottle and blow your ride sky high. ay chihuahua!!! so don't be drinkin and drivin. lol!

Looks like we think alike. I decided I would probably forget it on if I only had a manual switch so I tossed the old thermostats and bought a set of higher temp ones. In fact I have a few so I can choose what temp to have the bottle at. That is, for drag racing or dyno days I can put in a really high temp one and run near 1200 psi...or I can be conservative and safe on the street and just run a temp that gives me 850 psi. There is a huge difference in power though depending on the temp. At 600 psi there is maybe 25 RWHP, at 900 psi there is 100 RWHP at 1200 psi there is around 200 RWHP. Real numbers, not marketing ones!
 

Fast Freddy

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not good to run over 1100 psi. the nitrous oxide looses its liquidity at this point and leans out your air fuel ratio. also nitrous makes more power in a liquid state. i have found that anywhere from 1000-1067 psi works best 4 me. 900 psi is running way 2 close 2 border line rich but then it depends on how rich or lean your motor is in a normally aspirated state before u spray. so if your motor runs lean prior to spraying tune for 950 psi. but if your motor runs rich prior 2 spraying tune for 1050 psi. this is assuming your are running the recommended jetting from the nitrous manufacturer. nitrous manufactures supply jetting in there kits that is a little bit on the rich side because they know some peoples motors might be 2 lean and they don't have the experience with the juice so they try to keep them from burning there motors down and there companies from getting a bad rap or worse lawsuits. so if u have altered the factory nitrous jetting to lean out your mix of spray then make sure u run 900 psi otherwise kaboom! carbureted motors are more easily affected by changes in weather such as temperature and humidity and altitude. so depending on when and where u race if u don't rejet your carbs tuning your nos can counteract this 2 some extent. on the other hand late model fuel injected rides like our vipers have computers that constantly evaluate the a/f ratios and therefore make changes in fuel load and timing in split seconds of time. so unless u remap your fuel program u don't have as much control over what your motor is doing.
 
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