I've been perusing the last few weeks of this forum and a couple more...I've seen that you guys are very helpful with those of us who are just getting into the Viper world. I'm currently looking at purchasing an 01 RT/10 (14K miles, asking $49K at an import car lot) and I would of course have it professionally inspected before I purchase it, but I have a few questions...It was bought at auction in Georgia and has no maintenace records. It's had 3 owners. The CARFAX is clear, but what does that really mean. It's got a couple of paint nicks, a cracked fog lamp cover and a burn hole in the passenger seat. The interior is clean enough, but not immaculate. I'm not a gear head and much of the tech stuff that you guys talk about goes over my head...short shifters, smooth tubes, K&N filters, line lock, VEC1 and 2...(I'm pretty sure that this car is stock and doesn't have any of these mods) the salesperson said that he didn't know if it had a performance chip, but I've read in these forums that the Viper doesn't have a chip and the VEC1/2 is the performance mod instead. He also had problems getting the hood back down after I was slobbering over the engine. Are there any red flags here? I've read the Viper Buyer's Guide at least twice, so I know the basics. Is is hard to get the hood down? Is 3 owners alot for 14K miles? How about no maintenance records (I know that there probably wouldn't be much on a car with 14K miles)? Thanks in advance for any help that you can give...
Snake owner wannabe needs some help...
- Thread starter KenJ
- Start date
V10SpeedLuvr
Enthusiast
I've worked for 3 automotive dealerships and all 3 used to buy cars from GA auctions. I saw VERY few that I'd want to buy. It seemed like EVERY car we got from the auction needed tires, brakes, and had obviously bodywork/paint work from prior accident(s) plus other problems (broken interior pieces, new belts, etc). Be sure to get an A+ Viper tech (are you near Tator's Dodge in NY?) to check the car out!! Dont trust just a plain Dodge tech to check it out. Three owners in 5 years and only about 3k miles per owner does seem strange. My car is a 96' had 51k on it and I am only the 3rd owner. Plus call a Dodge dealership and get the Service Dept. to run the VIN. They can tell you what type work has been done on it by Dodge. I know GA does report to CarFax, so if the car has always been a GA car, any wrecks SHOULD be on there, but CarFax has a lot of errors in their database as well.
steel snake
Enthusiast
I'd pass on the car. Too many little problems that could cost$$$. There're plenty of RT10's in that mileage range that would be in better shape. Ditto on the Carfax.
Knight Viper
Viper Owner
You can get a better deal and a better background working with the guys right here on this sight. I agree 100%, I would stay away from that dealer and the auctions. There are a few recommended dealers that are on this sight if you don't buy one from an owner. Best of luck and we look forward to having you as a new VCA member.
Example:
www.woodhouseviper.com
www.lynnwooddodge.com
www.tatorsdodge.com
Example:
www.woodhouseviper.com
www.lynnwooddodge.com
www.tatorsdodge.com
2BADD 4U
Enthusiast
Call Bill Pemberton @ WoodHouse Dodge
1-800-889-1893
Do yourself a big favor.
Tell him Robinhood sent ya.
1-800-889-1893
Do yourself a big favor.
Tell him Robinhood sent ya.
Purdue_Boiler_Viper
Enthusiast
You can call Chuck Tator with the VIN and get the DC service history. If you get the car up on a lift, take photos and post them. Take photos of the engine compartment. Get the wheels, so we can tell if they are original. We can tell you if anything looks fishy. Pay attention to the frame, and look for any re-painting overspray or damage.
Look at the brake fluid. Is it clear or very dirty. Just an indicator.
Bottom line, be careful and take your time. Get exactly what you want (color and model).
The hood is not the easiest thing in the world to get closed. Takes a little practice to get it latched on the first push.
Look at the brake fluid. Is it clear or very dirty. Just an indicator.
Bottom line, be careful and take your time. Get exactly what you want (color and model).
The hood is not the easiest thing in the world to get closed. Takes a little practice to get it latched on the first push.
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
Where do you live? Lotsa people willing to help but we gotta know where you live.
I live in Birmingham, Alabama...might be moving to Denver, Colorado in the next few months. I really like the RT/10 over the GTS...it's a personal preference for the look and the convertible. I love the GEN I vipers, but I would like something more user friendly. I'm not fond of the GEN III design/look, so that leaves me with GEN II. 01 or 02 (for ABS) red or yellow RT/10 is my preference considering my price range is around 50K.
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
This 01 seems suspicious. If it is in Birmingham maybe somebody will take a look at it for you.
Thanks for the input...this is where it is...
http://platinum-imports.ebizautos.com/detail.aspx?iid=833791
http://platinum-imports.ebizautos.com/detail.aspx?iid=833791
Salesman doesn't seem like he knows anything about vipers. Typical "performance chip" crap I hear all the time. If it has a line lock on it, I bet it has been dragged a lot.
2002_Viper_GTS_ACR
Enthusiast
You want a good snake? Pretty simple:
1. Start here by keeping an eye on members looking to sell theirs, and I'm not talking about a new poster, thats here for a month or two and then posts a FOR SALE add here. Stick with guys who have been on here for a long time, and posted a lot, because 90% of the time the posts are about THEIR CAR, or a response to someones questions about vipers and they respond with their personal experience. This is huge, because you basically get snap shots in time on the history of the car. For example when I sold my Car to D.K. he knew EVERYTHING about the car, because he read almost every one of my 1000+ posts. He REMINDED ME of things I had done for modifications, and even asked me questions regarding mods I tried and then backed out of. I wrote all this, becasue quite honestly if I buy another viper its going to be from a fellow VCA member who is well documented on this club (he can even be a **** like me, becasue while people may be jerks, its no indication of how they treat their beloved cars).
2. Buy your car from one of the trusted dealers on here, there are SOOOOOOO few dealerships that really know the vipers, so stick with Sure winners like Hendrick Dodge, Tators Dodge, Bill Pemberton (woodhouse), D&E Dodge (only if Tom Sessions still works there), dodgvipersforsale.com, and any other TRUSTED dealerships from here i forgot to mention.
3. Buying outside of the first two, have BOTH a Viper owning Member on this forum (or previous owner still on this forum) check the car out for you (either with you, or on their own), then after the car is given a thumbs up, then take it to a trusted dealership to have it inspected. (Two reasons: 1st, owners know particular things to look at, that maybe some dealerships/Techs wont catch due to the owners actual experience and usage of the cars, and 2nd, the owners review will be free, saving you the expense of an inspection if it wasnt worth it to start with.)
Ok, thats my guidelines, if you faulter from those 3, your probably playing a form of viper russian rullet.
Good Luck.
Jon
1. Start here by keeping an eye on members looking to sell theirs, and I'm not talking about a new poster, thats here for a month or two and then posts a FOR SALE add here. Stick with guys who have been on here for a long time, and posted a lot, because 90% of the time the posts are about THEIR CAR, or a response to someones questions about vipers and they respond with their personal experience. This is huge, because you basically get snap shots in time on the history of the car. For example when I sold my Car to D.K. he knew EVERYTHING about the car, because he read almost every one of my 1000+ posts. He REMINDED ME of things I had done for modifications, and even asked me questions regarding mods I tried and then backed out of. I wrote all this, becasue quite honestly if I buy another viper its going to be from a fellow VCA member who is well documented on this club (he can even be a **** like me, becasue while people may be jerks, its no indication of how they treat their beloved cars).
2. Buy your car from one of the trusted dealers on here, there are SOOOOOOO few dealerships that really know the vipers, so stick with Sure winners like Hendrick Dodge, Tators Dodge, Bill Pemberton (woodhouse), D&E Dodge (only if Tom Sessions still works there), dodgvipersforsale.com, and any other TRUSTED dealerships from here i forgot to mention.
3. Buying outside of the first two, have BOTH a Viper owning Member on this forum (or previous owner still on this forum) check the car out for you (either with you, or on their own), then after the car is given a thumbs up, then take it to a trusted dealership to have it inspected. (Two reasons: 1st, owners know particular things to look at, that maybe some dealerships/Techs wont catch due to the owners actual experience and usage of the cars, and 2nd, the owners review will be free, saving you the expense of an inspection if it wasnt worth it to start with.)
Ok, thats my guidelines, if you faulter from those 3, your probably playing a form of viper russian rullet.
Good Luck.
Jon
Andrew/USPWR
Enthusiast
Try not to be in a hurry, I know it’s hard. It may take a little while, but there is somebody out there, with your cherry RT/10, maybe one owner, that babied the thing. When he decides to sell it, you’ll be glad you waited. I know what you mean about used car lots. I’d rather but one from an owner.
As far as the hood. If you got it open then I don’t need to go over that. To close it, you lay it down back on the tracks, leaving the front fully up. Put both hands a little over a foot up from the front edge and about the same distance apart from each other, and in one smooth, firm push, push down on the hood to lock it in. It seems like your being rough on the car at first, but your resetting some powerful springs. Then just give each front wheel well a tug to make sure they locked. If not re-pop the front latch and raise the front edge fully up again and repeat. I’ve never met a person that didn’t own a viper that new how the hood worked.
As far as the hood. If you got it open then I don’t need to go over that. To close it, you lay it down back on the tracks, leaving the front fully up. Put both hands a little over a foot up from the front edge and about the same distance apart from each other, and in one smooth, firm push, push down on the hood to lock it in. It seems like your being rough on the car at first, but your resetting some powerful springs. Then just give each front wheel well a tug to make sure they locked. If not re-pop the front latch and raise the front edge fully up again and repeat. I’ve never met a person that didn’t own a viper that new how the hood worked.
JUCD VPR
Enthusiast
I'd pass and for 50K i think you could get a way nicer RT/10 mine is a 99 RT/10 and very nice and i picked it up for 42K with 22K miles. I've never heard of the hood being hard to close before?
Midwest Muscle
Viper Owner
There isn't a chance in hell I'd buy that car. Don't walk away ... RUN AWAY!
Mike M
Mike M
Chuck 98 RT/10
Enthusiast
The pics don't look too bad but Gawd, why do people use that slimy Armor All? Every time I sit in an interior with that crap I feel like I'm sliding into a ******.
RedEnuf93
Enthusiast
When you buy a RT, get one WITH the hard top. It will not cost you a dime more, but you'll save a lot in the long run and enjoy your car longer.
I would not buy this car.
Post a note here for offers on a nice RT/10. I did it for my friend Wayne and he got nice viper in few weeks. He is very happy with it! I think I got about 5 good offers and 2 of them were very interresting. He ended up getting the car from AZ and it was inspected by a Dodge dealer prior.
This is all it took:
http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB14&Number=558967&Forum=UBB14&Words=&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=400&Old=1year&Main=558967&Search=true#Post558967
I would not buy this car.
Post a note here for offers on a nice RT/10. I did it for my friend Wayne and he got nice viper in few weeks. He is very happy with it! I think I got about 5 good offers and 2 of them were very interresting. He ended up getting the car from AZ and it was inspected by a Dodge dealer prior.
This is all it took:
http://vca2.viperclub.org/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB14&Number=558967&Forum=UBB14&Words=&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=400&Old=1year&Main=558967&Search=true#Post558967
IEATVETS
Enthusiast
4 months ago you could have bought mine for 33K but decided to keep it. I will keep my eyes and ears open.
D.K.
Viper Owner
Jon,
You and I both know that if, and that's a big if, you were really going to buy another Viper, it would have to be something like a twin turbo ACR or a twin turbo new SRT. Otherwise it would be pointless.
Now that Ford pulled the plug on the GT it's a lil different although that tungsten/silver color looks bada$$ on that car.
What about a Lambo Murcielago? I could see you in this:
You and I both know that if, and that's a big if, you were really going to buy another Viper, it would have to be something like a twin turbo ACR or a twin turbo new SRT. Otherwise it would be pointless.
Now that Ford pulled the plug on the GT it's a lil different although that tungsten/silver color looks bada$$ on that car.
You must be registered for see images attach
What about a Lambo Murcielago? I could see you in this:
You must be registered for see images
IDWIN
Enthusiast
Check out Dodevipersforsale.com They have a sweet 99 RT/10 I just bought a 99 GTS from them about a month ago. Per a previous post, I would highly reccomend them. They were great to deal with.
I also am in Colorado. Look us up if and when you move here.
Andrew/USPWR
Enthusiast
But bottom line Vipers are rock solid and you could find a great one at an auction and you could find a one owner car that beat the (*****) out of it. The more you look at them and the more you drive em, the better you'll feel about your final decision.
I flew from WPB FL to Oklahoma to buy my car from a guy who swore he babied the car. Never drove it in the rain, it was in immaculate condition. I flew into Dallas, rented a car and drove 3-4 hours to Wichita and checked into a hotel and waited for the owner to bring the car by. He’s late because he took it by a carwash to have it cleaned????? I look at the car. Back tires are bald but he didn’t realize that? Scratches on the drivers side sill like he was driving it in golf shoes. Burn marks on the seats and carpet from *** seeds, but he’s doesn’t smoke *** and has no kids? Few other things, but I drove it and it drove well but I flew all this way to but a pristine steel gray GTS Viper and I told him it was not what he had sold me over the phone and I’m not interested in it. I went back into the hotel to check out, but told him to give me a call in an hour and I’ll let him know if I had changed my mind. He called back in half hour and said he would take $5k off an already good price. I wired the money the next day and just sold it 3 years later for the same amount.
I flew from WPB FL to Oklahoma to buy my car from a guy who swore he babied the car. Never drove it in the rain, it was in immaculate condition. I flew into Dallas, rented a car and drove 3-4 hours to Wichita and checked into a hotel and waited for the owner to bring the car by. He’s late because he took it by a carwash to have it cleaned????? I look at the car. Back tires are bald but he didn’t realize that? Scratches on the drivers side sill like he was driving it in golf shoes. Burn marks on the seats and carpet from *** seeds, but he’s doesn’t smoke *** and has no kids? Few other things, but I drove it and it drove well but I flew all this way to but a pristine steel gray GTS Viper and I told him it was not what he had sold me over the phone and I’m not interested in it. I went back into the hotel to check out, but told him to give me a call in an hour and I’ll let him know if I had changed my mind. He called back in half hour and said he would take $5k off an already good price. I wired the money the next day and just sold it 3 years later for the same amount.
2002_Viper_GTS_ACR
Enthusiast
Jon,
You and I both know that if, and that's a big if, you were really going to buy another Viper, it would have to be something like a twin turbo ACR or a twin turbo new SRT. Otherwise it would be pointless.
Now that Ford pulled the plug on the GT it's a lil different although that tungsten/silver color looks bada$$ on that car.
What about a Lambo Murcielago? I could see you in this:
That is correct, I had the ultimate Fully Warrantied Gen 2 viper in my opinion, so to come back is highly unlikely unless its just something I cant say no to. Which is a steal deal on another Gen 2, or something amazingly powerful, which again, if that was an interest of mine, I would have just broken the warranty on mine, and done it to that car (that you now own). And yes, the Ford GT is still in my scope site and as soon as the weather gets good in Chicago, it'll be car buying season. The Lambos are definetly another option, but I am a Diablo kinda guy, so I would prefer a 2000-2001, or a 1999 GT (which cant be had in the US).
Jon
Try Bernie Katz of BJ Motors in MD
Used Viper Questions:
General:
1.Year?
2. Price?
3. Mileage?
4. Clean title?
5. VIN #?
6. Existing lien?
7. In service date?
Equipment:
1. Stock / original, or minor / moderate modifications (K&N filters, smooth tubes)
(headers, hi-flow cats, cat-back system, or more?) Rear wing?
2. Exterior and Interior Color? (Body stripes - painted or vinyl) Interior mods?
3. Nature of radio / CD player (stock, single in-dash, trunk player, etc.)?
4. Soft-top, hardtop, or both? Condition of each
5. Bag for soft-top?
6. Bikini top and bag
7. Tonneau cover? Side windows? (Gen1)
8. Car cover?
9. Existing Factory warranty / extended warranty (or provide after-market warranty)?
Condition:
1. General overall condition (any nicks, chips, scratches, window cracks, etc.)?
2. Involved in an accident(s), damaged, repainted, (telltale signs) etc.?
3. Condition under front bumper / front lip spoiler?
4. Condition of top(s)? (Soft-top sagging? Exterior condition?) Scratches on sport bar? Sport Bar cap missing?
5. How maintained? Records? (One owner? How many and how long) Documentation / Paperwork? DOCUMENTATION AND HISTORY of maintenance and sale(s) / owner(s)
6. Leather condition? (Split/cracked/worn?)
7. Tire condition? Brand/Size (Reasonable tread?)
8. Wheels (condition, nicks, curb rash?) Stock wheels for the particular year or aftermarket
9. Carpet / Floor mats condition?
10. Smoker / non-smoker?
11. Nitrous or other power adder used?
12. Used for track events (strip, track, Viper Days and autocross)?
13. Condition of the rocker panels (top and underside, chips, yellowing, sandblasted)
14. Condition of inside the door / rocker area
15. Scrapes under front bumper / spoiler?
16. Bottomed out?
17. 998 / 999 recall work done (if applicable) and done CORRECTLY. Documented?
18. Head gaskets (Gen1) Documentation?
19. Hood alignment (symmetrical?) Any hairline cracks? Hinges keep hood up?
20. Doors close well (no drooping / sagging-bad hinges)
Questions of my own that I used when I was looking:
1. What dealer was the Viper originally or last purchased from?
2. What is the current mileage?
3. Is it still under factory warranty? (what was the "in service" date?) Extended warranty?
4. Is the original window sticker available?
5. Do you have any of the original sales documentation?
6. What type of maintenance and / or repairs have been done to the car? (Records?)
7. Who performed / performs the repairs / maintenance?
8. When was the last service performed and what did it entail?
9. Does it have the stock radio?
10. Is there ANY curb rash on ANY of the wheels?
11. Has the car been driven in the rain? (cleanliness of the underside and wheel wells)
12. Are there equal gaps at the bottom sides of the hood, where the hood sides meet the top of the rocker panel? (just behind the front wheels) Pictures?
13. Are there equal gaps at the front "leading edge" sides of the hood where it meets the front bumper? (outermost front edge, towards the rear of the headlights) Pictures?
14. Are there ANY scrapes to the front spoiler? (under the car, black lip spoiler)
15. Are there ANY scrapes to the front fascia? (body colored front end, underneath)
16. Under the front of the car, have the leading or front portion of the front frame rails been scraped / bottomed out?
17. Are there any scratches, dents, scrapes to the inside door jambs (black painted areas)?
18. Are there any scrapes, dings, chips, etc to the rocker panel sides OR their undersides?
19. Does the A/C blow cold?
20. Do all switches and accessories operate properly?
21. Are there any fine cracks or surface spider-webbing cracks in / on the hood?
22. Will the hood stay up on its own?
23. Are the side bolsters of the seats (drivers in particular) showing any wear?
24. Do the doors close cleanly and flush and open without "dropping down" / sagging when opening? (sign of weak hinges)
25. Is the Viper garage kept?
26. Why are you selling?
27. What is your age?
28. What major city are you near?
Used Viper Questions:
General:
1.Year?
2. Price?
3. Mileage?
4. Clean title?
5. VIN #?
6. Existing lien?
7. In service date?
Equipment:
1. Stock / original, or minor / moderate modifications (K&N filters, smooth tubes)
(headers, hi-flow cats, cat-back system, or more?) Rear wing?
2. Exterior and Interior Color? (Body stripes - painted or vinyl) Interior mods?
3. Nature of radio / CD player (stock, single in-dash, trunk player, etc.)?
4. Soft-top, hardtop, or both? Condition of each
5. Bag for soft-top?
6. Bikini top and bag
7. Tonneau cover? Side windows? (Gen1)
8. Car cover?
9. Existing Factory warranty / extended warranty (or provide after-market warranty)?
Condition:
1. General overall condition (any nicks, chips, scratches, window cracks, etc.)?
2. Involved in an accident(s), damaged, repainted, (telltale signs) etc.?
3. Condition under front bumper / front lip spoiler?
4. Condition of top(s)? (Soft-top sagging? Exterior condition?) Scratches on sport bar? Sport Bar cap missing?
5. How maintained? Records? (One owner? How many and how long) Documentation / Paperwork? DOCUMENTATION AND HISTORY of maintenance and sale(s) / owner(s)
6. Leather condition? (Split/cracked/worn?)
7. Tire condition? Brand/Size (Reasonable tread?)
8. Wheels (condition, nicks, curb rash?) Stock wheels for the particular year or aftermarket
9. Carpet / Floor mats condition?
10. Smoker / non-smoker?
11. Nitrous or other power adder used?
12. Used for track events (strip, track, Viper Days and autocross)?
13. Condition of the rocker panels (top and underside, chips, yellowing, sandblasted)
14. Condition of inside the door / rocker area
15. Scrapes under front bumper / spoiler?
16. Bottomed out?
17. 998 / 999 recall work done (if applicable) and done CORRECTLY. Documented?
18. Head gaskets (Gen1) Documentation?
19. Hood alignment (symmetrical?) Any hairline cracks? Hinges keep hood up?
20. Doors close well (no drooping / sagging-bad hinges)
Questions of my own that I used when I was looking:
1. What dealer was the Viper originally or last purchased from?
2. What is the current mileage?
3. Is it still under factory warranty? (what was the "in service" date?) Extended warranty?
4. Is the original window sticker available?
5. Do you have any of the original sales documentation?
6. What type of maintenance and / or repairs have been done to the car? (Records?)
7. Who performed / performs the repairs / maintenance?
8. When was the last service performed and what did it entail?
9. Does it have the stock radio?
10. Is there ANY curb rash on ANY of the wheels?
11. Has the car been driven in the rain? (cleanliness of the underside and wheel wells)
12. Are there equal gaps at the bottom sides of the hood, where the hood sides meet the top of the rocker panel? (just behind the front wheels) Pictures?
13. Are there equal gaps at the front "leading edge" sides of the hood where it meets the front bumper? (outermost front edge, towards the rear of the headlights) Pictures?
14. Are there ANY scrapes to the front spoiler? (under the car, black lip spoiler)
15. Are there ANY scrapes to the front fascia? (body colored front end, underneath)
16. Under the front of the car, have the leading or front portion of the front frame rails been scraped / bottomed out?
17. Are there any scratches, dents, scrapes to the inside door jambs (black painted areas)?
18. Are there any scrapes, dings, chips, etc to the rocker panel sides OR their undersides?
19. Does the A/C blow cold?
20. Do all switches and accessories operate properly?
21. Are there any fine cracks or surface spider-webbing cracks in / on the hood?
22. Will the hood stay up on its own?
23. Are the side bolsters of the seats (drivers in particular) showing any wear?
24. Do the doors close cleanly and flush and open without "dropping down" / sagging when opening? (sign of weak hinges)
25. Is the Viper garage kept?
26. Why are you selling?
27. What is your age?
28. What major city are you near?
